Help with "Max Car" controller

smallblock450sl

Guy's...A customer asked me to look at his "Max Car", said he put new batteries in (36 volt) and played 9 holes and it went dead. Got the car in (I guess it was a "high bread" Hyundai) and tested what I could. Battery voltage good/wires good/have a reverse buzzer when in reverse/key switch seems ok(no rev buzzer or solenoid activation with key off)/ solenoid "energizes" and current flows thru/tested the motor (it works with a jumper test)/ seems voltage ok at a1/a2, but not at s1/s2. So my diagnostic tests would lead me to be the controller. Has anyone seen one of these ? Does anyone know where I could get one or this one rebuilt ? I feel bad for this guy, if I can't find an awnser, the only option I see (and my site is bad) is a curtis controller and a manual f/r switch and rewiring. Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreiciated (by the owner and me). Thanks Dave ! Roady..are you out there ?

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BGW

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roady89

The standard controller test's should work on most electronic speed controllers. Thats a SEPEX controller. You can use an ALLTRAX DCX and convert it. Heres a link to a reputable rebuilder http://www.controllertestservices.com/

I'm kinda thinking if your not getting power to S2 and S1 the controller is toast. I think you should be getting a steady voltage on S1-S2 as soon as the solenoid is engaged. Whats kinda strange is it just quiting like it did. Can you get a better picture of the wiring diagram?