ultimate tow cart build questions - Yamaha G9

noslin

purchased a Yamaha G9 and from using my friends stock club car 36 volt, i know this 36volt G9 wont cut it. its a bone stock G9, im wanting to use it as a pit vehicle to two a drag car to the line, pick up at the top end, and back to the pits. worst case scenario will be at least one husky guy, probably a tall skinny guy and few average weight guys towing a 3200lb car (at most). probably figure 1000lbs for passengers and the car weight. normally its just one to two guys towing the car. my hope would be to get 15mph out of it towing normal load, if fully loaded at least 10 mph out of it. might lift it a little bit but not if it will hurt performance any.

so, have a clean slate.. i think the best way to do this is convert the cart to 48 volt, get a new motor for torque, controller, etc. I have read some of the information on Carts Unlimited and also emailed the gentleman which he was kind enough to reply. here is what he saidmy thought is to just start with as is quoted above, a 700 amp controller, whichever D&D motor, upgraded solenoid, F&R device, etc.

so, with that.. what would you do. i guess im looking for direction on parts to get for the build.

thank you
Dean

BGW

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classycarts

If you plan on going any rounds and/or attending any 3 day events. You may want to consider buying a gas cart noslin. You can't change the run time on the battery pack. And by towing, your only shortening the run time. You'll be much happier with using a gas cart.

branson

I think once you get the car moving it will not take much current to keep it up to speed. However if you plan to do this all weekend you will need a way to charge it at least every night.
You may also want to look at 8-6 volt batteries to get the maximum range.
Smaller tires will also help torque.
How many times do you plan on towing the car in a day?
How far is the trip to the pits?

cgtech

I think 8x 6v will be a very difficult fit in a g9 due to the motor controller location & battery tray configuration. I would start with a larger controller and switch to 48v with all cables upgraded to 4ga minimum. Keep the stock motor for now, it may actually meet your needs with a larger controller & more volts. Stock motor can handle 48v fine, keep the amps reasonable (400-500 max).

noslin

we run 1/4 mile, so round trip will be a mile. towing will be only 1/4" mile at a time. usually its just me and a buddy towing me but there are those occasions where others jump on for a little ride.

i will upgrade battery cables to 2GA and keep the stock wheels/tires on it. money for tires, wheels etc is money that could be spent on race car.

i was looking at these controllers from All Trax. http://alltraxinc.com/Products_SPM.html (looking at spm-48800)

here is wire diagram from Alltraxinc for G9 http://alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-0...6-wire-dia.pdf

not sure yet on what F&R, Solenoid, etc to get yet if i use the spm-48800. my thought is, if it only cost a few hundred more for the extra amps then spend it as if i install something with less amps and it does not work then i am not wasting my money having to do the change twice.

ill have to sit down and study (absorb) some more with whats needed. your inputs are appreciated

ty
dean

cgtech

Spm48800 is awesome, but overkill for your needs. And having that much juice "on-tap" usually leads to driving practices not conducive to maximizing range. A SPM48500 could meet your needs. Also the "800" is huge (about 3x larger than your current controller). It can do wheelies tho .

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noslin

Perfect! gonna build some new wheelie bars for the car so i can use the old ones on the cart... nothing wrong with having too much power right

cgtech

Even with a motor wound for speed, as opposed to low end torque (it is a trade off), its open diff still wants to steer left. The guy who took the video would not stand there for another pic (its a screenshot from a vid). A torque motor could have worn the bottom of the bumper off, dragging on the ground. I have never driven any car that can carry the front wheels, but it has to be spooky when the front wheels dont even touch the ground until its doing 50+mph. You could easily roll a golfcart that has no steering at all for the first 20 feet (#1- dont try to steer with tires that are not on the ground).

noslin

ok, coming back to visit the golf cart. i picked up a Alltrax AXE 4865 controller. after doing a bit of reading, i think im going to use the Reversing Contactor setup. Since i see how much ScottyB supports the sight and reading the information from his website. im going to get the Reversing Contactor, Super duty solenoid, diode, resistor, etc from him.

ill make my own 2GA cables and will be ripping out all the wiring on the cart as its all a mess anyways.

for right now, i would like run it off 36 volt till i can save the money up for the 8v batteries, charger, and motor. although it would be nice to do 8-6v batteries but considering the cost and added weight ill go with 6-8v batteries.

im considering the US Batteries US 8VGCHC XC2, merely due to cost over the Trojan battery. but, from what i have read it is prob as good or better then the Trojan T-890.

for the motor im thinking about using the D&D 170-004-0002A motor. supposed to provide 40% more torque.

for battery charger, i was looking at the DPI Accusence battery charger that cartsunlimited sells.

any opinions or recommendations?

ty
dean

cgtech

Sounds good. I dont know anything good or bad about the motor.