48V Yamaha Clicks - Won't Run

Old3Leg

I need help.

I have a G19 48V Yamaha.

Yesterday I was going up my steep driveway very slowly while spaying for bugs. All of a sudden I lost power. Had to tow cart up with truck.

It has proper voltage from batteries. It clicks in Tow and Run. It makes a sound like it wants to work when the pedal is down.

I check the voltage at the Controller and Motor.

I have two connectors at motor. A1+, F2- and A2+ and F1-

The top +/- connectors read 52V at the motor and controller. They hold pretty steads when pedal is pressed.

The lower A1+ F2- connectors show about 26V (half) and drop to 0v when the pedal is pressed.

I don't think I have a fuse issue. Do I have a controller or motor issue.

Controller? Did I burn something out going really slow up hill. Nothing smelt burned.

HELP????

The

BGW

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Old3Leg

Ok.. the A2 positive has 26V and drops to about 4-6 when the accelerator is pressed all the way down.

The A1 positive has 50.1V and doesn't drop.

A1 with either F1 or F2 grounds is 50.1V.

A2 with either F1 or F2 grounds is 26V.

I'm guess that both A1 and A2 should be the same 50+ volts??

Controller looks like this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-G19-4...item56483d6ed4

Old3Leg

One more thing...

The solenoid clicks and reads 48.9 volts when in Tow on the two large positive screws.

Drops to 0v quickly when turned on. Slowly climbs back to 48.9v when turned back off.

Old3Leg

So that's the question...

Is a regen controller for a 19E 48v Yamaha supposed to have 50+ volts on one positive controller connection to the motor and 26v volts on the other dropping to about 0 when the pedal is pressed down.

The solenoid clicks when turned to Tow and Run. When the pedal is pressed the motor makes a noise like it wants to turn.. The wheel will not spin when elevated.

The cart does seem to move pretty freely when pushing. I remember more resistance but perhaps that just me.

The power coming from the Solenoid is 50+ volts to controller.

Old3Leg

I have continuity between F1 and F2 but nothing between A1 and A2.. (ohm test)

I want to jack up the wheel and test the motor with some juice. I replaced the brushes about 6 months ago.

My motor wire mounts are grouped A2/F1 (top of motor) and A1/F2 (on side and showing 26v)

Not like this diagram.

http://www.empinc.biz/tech_support.p...ntroller_shunt

I want to use jumper cables to test motor.

I think it's jump A2 to F2 and put positive on A1 and negative on F1

Old3Leg

Ok... took motor off and apart after seeing that my ohm meter wasn't picking anything up on A1 and A2 and it was on F1 and F2.

I had a broken brush (rather stone :-) and a burned out / broken wire on one side.

I just replaced that about 6 months ago. This could be good news.

The bearings looks OK and I'm going to spray down and get a kit.

I'm hoping that the controller detected a problem (only 26V and reduced power when pedal pressed) or something like that.

The kit is about a $100 or so.

This was fun.. kinda like drinking a 12 pack and then taking the boat out around a cape... good luck!