2007 Yamaha Drive dead, no clicking
Good morning all!
Yamaha fan here, bought my cart (06’ G22 gas) back in 2008 and have loved every minute of it. Two other Yamaha owner’s on my street. Both have 2007 Drives (electric) and I’m trying to help one of them out. He just acquired his cart over the weekend at an estate sale.
Here is what I’m working with:
-2007 Yamaha Drive electric (48V)
-Trojan Batteries, T-1275’s, (replaced 12-09)
-Cart has been outside but under a roof for about 2 months, not sure if it was in the “Tow” or “Drive” position
-Cart was dead at the sale (single digit temps and snowy) but the owner assured my buddy it worked, said he would buy it back if it didn’t work after a charge.
Owning a gasser, I’ve never worked on an electric cart but am very familiar with DC. He brought it over to the shop to check things out.
Reverse buzzer worked, flipping between “Tow” and “Drive” made a solenoid click (twice I think). Hooked it up to the OEM Yamaha charger to let charge. Charger went through its series of blinking lights but everything looked good on the charger.
The next evening, I went to check on it and the only light burning was the red LED next to “Power On”, the top light. My neighbor with the other Drive brought his OEM charger over and the next night, same result. Plugged the original charger back in and the next morning we had a green “Charged” LED. Checked the voltage and had 12.6, 12.5, 12.5 and 12.2. Cart was still dead in the water. No clicking when turning the key on but if the key was left on, the solenoid would randomly click every minute or so. Then, it started working for a few minutes. Parked the cart for the night.
Next day, cart dead again. Cart was not on the charger and the voltage was 12.3, 12.3, 12.4 and 11.9. Reverse buzzer works, solenoid clicks when going from “Tow” to “Drive” but nothing clicks with the key. The other Drive cart we have for reference clicks when turning the key on.
My neighbor would like to keep the cart but it was sold under the pretense of not needing any repairs.
Any thoughts from the BGW community?
Worked on the cart some more tonight, had our other neighbor's "donor" cart handy.
Swapped solenoids - nothing. Solenoid on dead cart did work on the known good cart.
Key switch - ohmed out ok. Went ahead and switched them with the same results as above. Dead car switch worked on the known good cart.
Basically, the known good parts had no effect on the dead cart.
New observations :
1. Driver side batteries were replaced 3-2010. Passenger side batteries replaced 12-2010.
2. Charging port may have a loose or corroded wire. If you wiggle the charging cord handle while inside the port, the charger will cut on and off. Seems like the problem is on the cart, not the charger or charger cord.
3. Battery terminals and cables are covered in the red anti-corrosion spray. There is some slight corrosion on the posts. Funny though, there is so much spray on there, it's tough for me to get a reading with my voltmeter. I've actually got to scrape around a bit with the probes.
4. Batteries were 12.2 to 12.5. Around 14.5 while charging, can hear the acid bubbling.
5. Single in-line fuse (that I could find) was good.
I'm thinking my next steps will be checking the water levels, ohming out / cleaning battery cable ends and battery posts.
Pulled up the wire diagram off Yamaha's website. Looks like I may need to check the switch at the gas pedal also. No "click" when I hit the gas or turn the key on.
Any thoughts or similar situations?
Re: 2007 Yamaha Drive dead, no clicking
The first thing is to put the car in "tow" position and remove/clean all the battery terminals to clean lead and cable ends back to clean metal or replace them. All it takes is one loose/corroded connection to drop voltage enough that the controller cant operate. That being said, I useually use the "Genuis" pda reader for fault codes and trouble shooting. Just last month I had a 2012 (6-8 volt battery set up) that when you pushed on the accelerator, it would try to run,then die. All battery voltage checked out fine. "Genuis" fault codes said solenoid/motor or controller problem, changed them out...same thing! So, went back to volt meter trouble shooting, "old school" diagnostics:thumbup: Found when the accelerator pedal pushed, voltage would drop to 40 volts? Did a hydrometer reading of the batteries, found one battery with a "0" cell reading. Bad battery, voltage drop and the car could not run. You could also jack up the car, put your volt meter on the battery set and try to run the car and check for voltage drop and do the same on each battery to check for voltage drop. Hope that helped alittle.
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