help with wiring up accessories on my cart.

chrisp6108

I still have my 93.5-94 marathon 4 cycle cart, lifted up 4 inches with 21" offroad tires and such just like the profile picture, but i finally got around to repairing and mounting my full fiberglass roof to my cart, but now i am planning to move my radio, cd player, font and back speakers on a small 400w amp, a large led light bar for forward and a small one for rear, and a led under cart light kit.

i need help with a wiring schematic to make this as safe as possible, what i would like to have is a master power switch to turn all electronics off with a flip of one switch, and also have a toggle switch for each device individually.

my issue is i am bad about knowing when to use relays and such, so im trying to make this as safe as possiable and the "proper way" vs what i've been doing which is just running power threw switches to the device which i know is not correct, any input or if someone wants to draw a schematic for me to help me understand i would greatly appreciate all the help!

i hope i didnt make this too confusing to everyone??????

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

dacheedah

I would suggest installing a marine fuse panel. Feed it from the power from the battery with a circuit breaker between the panel and the battery. A separate fused circuit for each device with the appropriate sized fuse for each device. If you run wire through tubing use grommets , if on the frame protect the wiring in a loom. Clean connections with proper crimps followed with solder and heat shrink and a dab of dielectric grease will help keep things in good working order. Also a grounding block with separate ground wires for each device. You really wanna have fun run a battery isolater with a switch that will charge the starting battery and overflow to the house battery. If you leave something on your starting battery will always have full power. The house battery cal always be switched to jump the main if needed.

chrisp6108

that was kinda what i had in mind just ran from 1 battery instead 2 like you mentioned, i dont have the extra room i dont think for a 2nd battery besides under my rear sear but i use that when i go to outdoor shows and such for storage for small cooler.

so its ok to wire power directly from the fuse panel into a toggle switch, and into lighting or cd player and such, i thought it had to go threw relays to help with draw. but again, thats why im asking for help as im not an electrician. i know enough to just get me in trouble, and i was going to solder all connections.

dacheedah

Relays will allow you to switch higher amp draws from a switch like lights. For radio you could go right off the switch. Lots of relays and options like 10 second delays, timers ... to help you with what you want. You could also pick up power from the motor for daylight driving that will only work with motor running. You are only limited by your pocket book.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

chrisp6108

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Gang-Wate...lZo5AB&vxp=mtr

mixed with a master kill switch with the red flip top.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pilot-Chrom...pVY6tZ&vxp=mtr
i guess i just have to sit down and figure out exactly where i want everything so i know how many switches to buy.

chrisp6108

opinion of a kit that has a circuit breaker built into the panel?
https://www.amazon.com/TEQStone-Circ...h%2Bpanel&th=1

dacheedah

you can get a circuit breaker cheep and it is better placed close to the battery. if a short or malfunction caused a breaker to trip you want to protect everything down stream. Size it and the wire for how many amps it will draw, then go one size larger on the wire.

Once at the panel each circuit should be fused based on the device(s) you are powering. Remember to keep the negative and positive wires the same length and that will be for your audio. If you have any ferrite beads I would put those to use , one on each circuit wont hurt and that will kill any high frequency noises from motors, lights . . . and if you do use a stereo, charge your phone ... you will be glad you did that.

I like pulling a ground to a grounding block near my fuse panel. This makes wiring everything easier , also and not using the frame, most gremlins live on the ground side.

Since carts are exposed to harsh environments I also suggest running a small loop of wire under your panel and grounding block and coming up from below. This allows any moisture that may find it's way down a wire to drip below the connections and not follow them to the connections. This is how I wire my boats and it makes for more riding and less fixing. We used to use zip ties and that has proven to cause a lot of problems also, nothing like pinching a wire while everything else is moving to cause a failure. Now we use velcro ties and you can find a roll of the stuff cheap at any home center. Its also nice to unfasten and update then refasten.