92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!!

khoff99 · 05-03-2009, 09:34 AM

Hey guys, I've been doing a 92 resistor cart conversion to a controller. To start with I completely gutted the cart so I could rebuild the batter box and make room for my new components! After making my new box, I undercoated the entire frame and started fabricating brackets and stuff. Here is the list of components used. New: D&D high torque motor purchased from EMP as a modified motor, New 1204 Curtus controller purchased from Controller Test Services and upgraded to a 550amp, new curtus p-6 pot switch, new high amp selonoid, new heavy duty forward reverse switch, as well as a speed/torque switch from EMP. So I wired the cart with 2/0 welding cable, through all these different diagrams and things, I'm still not sure if it's wired right but it runs. I've contacted Chuck at EMP but he's never done a full conversion like this. Does anyone have a full diagram for a conversion like this? I've talked to several people and they say I have it wired correctly but when I pull a hill, this torque motor slows down and has a HUGE amp draw. On a hill, start draw is 320-350 and run draw is around 140. Can anyone help?!?! I'm not positive I have my controller/ and or F/R and or motor wired right!

redriderno22 · 05-03-2009, 09:53 AM

you sure about the amp draw?

how are the batts under that load?

khoff99 · 05-03-2009, 10:38 AM

I am positive about the amp draw.... that's the thing, I know somethings wrong. The Batts have about 30-34V during those loads.... any ideas?

dock98 · 05-03-2009, 10:40 AM

welcome to the forums khoff99

roady89 · 05-03-2009, 10:45 AM

Heres one I made that works flawlessly but it uses an Alltrax. Disregard the Czonka relay polarity. Standard solenoid activation coils are not polorized. You probly have something miswired and causing high amp draw. 140 AMPS is WAAAY to high for a torque motor cruising. The motor could also possibly have a short but unlikely.

What is your tire size and gearing?

khoff99 · 05-03-2009, 10:56 AM

Hey Roady, thanks.... A few questions from my differences. I have A2 going though the controller, and from the controller to f/r switch. Also, I can't tell what the diagram says on the controller, I can make out M- and looks like B+? on the LH side of the controller? Last difference is in the coil, I ran power from the key to the pot switch, and out of the pot switch to one side of the coil, from there to the controller but I think basically accomplishes the same thing. So what's left? Seems to be wired right? Tires are 22x11x8's and just standard cart gearing

khoff99 · 05-03-2009, 11:03 AM

Hey thanks DOCK, I have really done an awesome conversion..... i'll post pics after I get things figured out. I couldn't find CAMOCLAD cheap enough to suit me, so just became a dealer!! If anyone needs some, I can hook you up! I did my cart w/Advantage Max4, power coated my rims black and undercoated the whole battery box and under side of the cart. I repainted my utility bed and put a radio in!!

roady89 · 05-03-2009, 11:06 AM

The A2 connection on Curtis Controllers is useless and provides no function.(1204-1205 as far as I know.) (It's supposed to be for Plug Braking) You can leave the A2 disconnected on the controller. Most people just bolt the 2 cables that go to A2 together. Works fine.

As far as the key wiring. Your way the controller will boot upon pressing the throttle. My way the controller is booted when the key is turned on. Should make little difference if any. Both ways work. Double and tripple check your wiring.

What is your tire size and gearing?

Top = M-
Left = B+
Right = B-

khoff99 · 05-03-2009, 08:34 PM

Roady, 22x11x8's and just standard cart gearing. I've double and triple checked the wiring.... Question I have, someone told me the controller shouldn't be grounded to the frame.... i have it bolted to the frame? I wouldn't think the case for the controller would be grounded internally, but would that cause high amp draws if that were the problem? I have it bolted to the frame?

roady89 · 05-03-2009, 09:59 PM

The controller is not grounded internally so bolting it to the chassis is not an issue. Also, NOTHING should be GROUNDED to frame. Run all electrical to the battery terminals.

How are you measuring the amp draw? Are you using the speed/torque switch? Did you twist a terminal on the motor taking off the short jumper?

05-03-2009, 09:34 AM	#1
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54	92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! Hey guys, I've been doing a 92 resistor cart conversion to a controller. To start with I completely gutted the cart so I could rebuild the batter box and make room for my new components! After making my new box, I undercoated the entire frame and started fabricating brackets and stuff. Here is the list of components used. New: D&D high torque motor purchased from EMP as a modified motor, New 1204 Curtus controller purchased from Controller Test Services and upgraded to a 550amp, new curtus p-6 pot switch, new high amp selonoid, new heavy duty forward reverse switch, as well as a speed/torque switch from EMP. So I wired the cart with 2/0 welding cable, through all these different diagrams and things, I'm still not sure if it's wired right but it runs. I've contacted Chuck at EMP but he's never done a full conversion like this. Does anyone have a full diagram for a conversion like this? I've talked to several people and they say I have it wired correctly but when I pull a hill, this torque motor slows down and has a HUGE amp draw. On a hill, start draw is 320-350 and run draw is around 140. Can anyone help?!?! I'm not positive I have my controller/ and or F/R and or motor wired right!
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54

05-03-2009, 09:53 AM	#2
redriderno22 let it SNOW Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Marengo OHIO Posts: 871	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! you sure about the amp draw? how are the batts under that load?

05-03-2009, 10:38 AM	#3
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! I am positive about the amp draw.... that's the thing, I know somethings wrong. The Batts have about 30-34V during those loads.... any ideas?
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54

05-03-2009, 10:40 AM	#4
dock98 doin it in the desert Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sonora Desert,Az Posts: 5,603	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! welcome to the forums khoff99

05-03-2009, 10:56 AM	#6
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! Hey Roady, thanks.... A few questions from my differences. I have A2 going though the controller, and from the controller to f/r switch. Also, I can't tell what the diagram says on the controller, I can make out M- and looks like B+? on the LH side of the controller? Last difference is in the coil, I ran power from the key to the pot switch, and out of the pot switch to one side of the coil, from there to the controller but I think basically accomplishes the same thing. So what's left? Seems to be wired right? Tires are 22x11x8's and just standard cart gearing
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54

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05-03-2009, 11:03 AM	#7
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! Hey thanks DOCK, I have really done an awesome conversion..... i'll post pics after I get things figured out. I couldn't find CAMOCLAD cheap enough to suit me, so just became a dealer!! If anyone needs some, I can hook you up! I did my cart w/Advantage Max4, power coated my rims black and undercoated the whole battery box and under side of the cart. I repainted my utility bed and put a radio in!!
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54

05-03-2009, 11:06 AM	#8
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,022	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! The A2 connection on Curtis Controllers is useless and provides no function.(1204-1205 as far as I know.) (It's supposed to be for Plug Braking) You can leave the A2 disconnected on the controller. Most people just bolt the 2 cables that go to A2 together. Works fine. As far as the key wiring. Your way the controller will boot upon pressing the throttle. My way the controller is booted when the key is turned on. Should make little difference if any. Both ways work. Double and tripple check your wiring. What is your tire size and gearing? Top = M- Left = B+ Right = B-
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,022

05-03-2009, 08:34 PM	#9
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! Roady, 22x11x8's and just standard cart gearing. I've double and triple checked the wiring.... Question I have, someone told me the controller shouldn't be grounded to the frame.... i have it bolted to the frame? I wouldn't think the case for the controller would be grounded internally, but would that cause high amp draws if that were the problem? I have it bolted to the frame?
khoff99 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 54

05-03-2009, 09:59 PM	#10
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,022	Re: 92 Ezgo Resistor Conversion gone bad... HIGH AMP DRAW and Lack of power HELP!!!!! The controller is not grounded internally so bolting it to the chassis is not an issue. Also, NOTHING should be GROUNDED to frame. Run all electrical to the battery terminals. How are you measuring the amp draw? Are you using the speed/torque switch? Did you twist a terminal on the motor taking off the short jumper?
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,022

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