12 Volt Boost

klambert001

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...dy89-boost.jpg

Found this on a different thread. Very useful. What is the capacitor added for? I was planing on boosting my 36v with 12 or 24. Im running all 2awg power cables, contactors instead of solenoids. Planing on mounting switch at base of accel pedel so boost only kicks in at full pedel. Also running a field shut switch at full speed. like to here some feedback from people that have tried this set or something simulial.

BGW

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SpoiledRotten

Hey, an electric NOS system!

Let us know how it goes.

redriderno22

I have done the boost

works pretty good, as long as you have a big enough diode and a good heat sink

just make sure to put in a big cut off switch just in case!

klambert001

Planing on using a forklift directional contactor. With this I should be able to run normally. Then when the boost is switched- 36v system drops out and 48v directly to drive motor bypassing controller. I have pleanty of spare batterys, more that I can load on the back. I may have to see how far I can take it.
Anyone know why the capacitor was added on that diagrahm. Just courious to the logic behind that. I wasnt planning on using one.
Have any of you guys ever tried running a field shunt on top of a batt boost? I know Im probally begging for another motor rebuild but I like taking it to the edge.

redriderno22

the cap is used to help stop arcing across the contacts

galloway

and to help stop current from bouncing around when you turn the boost off. You need to just be careful at what the max rpm your motor is rated for. You put to much juice too it and you will spin it apart.

roady89

There is just enough room inside the ITS box to mount a microswitch. Thats what we use to engage the boost relay.

Galloway is correct. You need to watch the RPM's carefully. If your just boosting 12 volts you should be fine. On a 36 volt cart just figure every 12 volts is a 33% increase in power and RPM's. (keep it simple) Its been my experience the stock ezgo motors seem to handle 8K just fine but don't push them more than that. We had swapped a stocker with a higher rpm motor, held it wide open for who kows how long. When it GRENADED it was turning about 14K rpm. Thats the only motor we ever blew, stock motors seem to work just fine for what we are doing AND they are easier to find. The armature banding is what failed. I'm not sure what stock armature banding material is, it looks like fiberglass. Any good motor builder can band the armature with Kevlar, balance the armature and then the motor will handle more RPM's just fine. Comm arcing doesn't seem to be any worse than stock at moderate boost voltage. High torque/low speed motors work REAL good on high voltage. You have torque on the motor and gain RPM with voltage.

Also be sure to pick up more than 1 diode...they WILL FAIL if pushed to the limits of their capabilities. I know of one blown controller due to diode failure. This was a VERY extreme situation so its not like it happens very often. Also, NEVER NEVER NEVER use the A2 terminal on the controller. Just wire from F/R straight to motor. What could happen is when you are in reverse and slam the F/R into forward under boost. There is a huge surge in amperage that acts like a dead short in the armature, this amperage feeds back through to the A2 controller connection and COULD over amp the freewheel diodes inside the controller. When/if that happens the controller is toast. The simple solution is to not use the A2 connection at all. You shouldn't be under boost anyways when switching from reverse to forward and vise versa. We did it to test the abilities.

To date we have not lost an EZGO hub to stripping. Make sure your hub nuts are tight.
We HAVE lost input shaft splines, but at the time we were running 144 volts.

GarageBuilt

Not a lot of guys know that roady has played a big part with this type of boost. But he was. I remenber when he built his first boost. Back then he called it a 36-volt bypass. When we were all running 25mph, he was on the boost making history. Oh ya, he can also rebuild a stock controller. Nate & roady are the guys that made what high voltage is today. Now roady, build that high voltage drag cart & let's race.

roady89

Thanks GB but if it wasn't for Nate I wouldn't know what I do...still don't know near as much as he does. He is a great asset to many. I'd rather build and let others drive.

In that diagram it just shows 12 volts. You can add in series as many volts as your components will handle. The czonkas will handle WAAAYY more voltage than you can carry and diodes you can get some pretty high voltages.

redriderno22