1986 CC 36v conversion to 48v

killsumptin

I have a 1986 CC 36v with the 5 solenoid and coil configuration.
I've heard about a 48v conversion by adding 2 more 6v batteriesthat will allow me to still use my 36V charger. I understand that 2- 6v batteries can be added after the solenoid for increased torque and extended range.

I understand this conversion may be a little ....Um... controversial, or even somewhat unsafe.

I am not concerned with any potential damage to components as I plan to do controller and motor upgrades as I can afford to.

Is this what they call the Nate shunt?

I only know Nate by reputation and would really value his input on this topic.

I wish I had the resources to do all of the necessary upgrades in a proper manner. But right now I must try for the biggest bang for my buck.

My first mistake was doing a little research and hearing so many differing opinions. As they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

My first upgrade is to replace all of the cables with 2/0 cables.

Will my solenoids and coils play nice with this mod?

When I do upgrade the controller what is the most cost effective method?

Keep in mind my goal is increased torque and extended range. Speed is only a secondary concern.

Deep sand, heavy loads, and the occasional steep grade will be my biggest concerns.

I realize I am probably opening a can of worms here, but feel free to chime in and get me started down the right path.

I look forward to learning from those that are more learned in cart lore than I.

I am a Sr. Aerospace Technician, working as an elecrtical tech., but I am learning quickly that my vintage club car is a totally different beast than my vintage space shuttle. I do mostly 28 v dc signal voltage work and cart theory is totally foreign to me.

Thanks for your help.

Here's a pic of my old buggy resurection so far:

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roady89

Without getting to technical....you can basically add 2 more batteries in series with the other 6 and your good to go. You do of coarse run the risk of burning up solenoids. Some will run forever on 48 volts....some will melt within a day or so. You will have to charge those extra batteries somehow.

If it were me....I would do a controller swap first....but thats me. Controllers just seem to run alot better and are more efficiant. 2/0 cable is a little over kill or your application but it will work.

Best bang for the buck will be a 48 volt upgrade.

Golf Carts | Lifted Golf Carts | Electric Golf Carts

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killsumptin

could you provide a simple little drawing? Which batteries do add the new ones to?

napalaz

Gornoman has a great post on how to do this and how to re-wire to use your 36v charger and a 12v charger instead of blowing a wad of cash on 48v charger

roady89

I drew these up in CAD real quick....The first one is wired like factory 86 cart wiring. The second one is for 48 volts.

Attached Images

	now.JPG (32.5 KB, 18 views)
	48.JPG (46.2 KB, 23 views)

Golf Carts | Lifted Golf Carts | Electric Golf Carts

Custom EZGO | B&S V-Twin | All Sports Long Travel Lift | 8:1 Gears | 22" Titan AT489's

| | | | | | |

caddymankc

I was thinking of using 2 connectors like the ones used to connect the charger, then just disconnect them to charge 36v then a seperate 12v charger, no need to loosen up cables then.You think that would work?

killsumptin

I"ve decicded to do just that. I will use a 12v charger to charge 2 of the batteries. I am going to use a trolling motor plug and socket from Walmart, Cost $14. Install the weatherproof socket into the side of the cart and wire the plug onto the 12v charger. I'll probably use some type of connectors on the charger and make one set for the alligator clips and one set for the trolling motor plug. That way if I ever need to charge any other battery besides the ones in the cart, I simply unplug the trolling motor plug from the charger and plug in the alligaror clips.

I like the trolling motor connectors because they are weather proof and made to carry heavy DC voltage. The wires are actually heavier than the 12v charger wires.

scottyb

I'm not understanding what you guys are saying - you're going to have two seperate charge systems hardwired into the pack? I would think you will need a disconnect between 36v and the additional 12v in order to charge from both ends or something like that?

killsumptin

That's the way I understand it.

You move the positive lead coming from your 36V charger port from the #1 batt. (+) lead to the #3 batt. (+) lead. The 36v charger port (-) lead goes to the #6 batt. (-) lead.

This isolates the #1 and #2 batt. from the charge circuit.

Then you hook up the 12v charger (+) lead to the #1 batt. (+) term. and the 12v (-) charger lead to the #2 (-) lead.

I may be wrong as I often am. If this is the case, someone please correct me before I mess up.

scottyb

Okay, well, the disconnect part was what I wasn't catching. I found a 48v charger in the locals and just added two batteries. Real simple. Whole thing cost like $300. Used charger, 48v solenoid, 2 used batteries, 2 cables. Boom.