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#31 |
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Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 371
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Hey guys, sorry I have been away for a while but should be getting back on a schedule of some sort.
Buckman, do you trust yourself to remove your motor and pull it apart? First do what Roady says. Put one meter lead on the "S" terminal of your choice and the other lead on the frame or diff housing and see what the continuity or ohm reading is. If just the field were shorted there would be no problem but you need a path as Fishing Dude pointed out. This means a wire from the battery pack is also touching the frame to complete the circuit. Why it chooses that one cable is anyone's guess but it obviously does. If you find the motor shorted and you trust yourself to take the motor apart then remove the field and look for the place the insulation got scraped off. It is typically on the inside of a coil loop where the corner of the shoes are. Run tape around the shoe then wrap the coil where it rubbed through. If you could use an insulating fiber tape that would be best but if not electrical tape is better than nothing. Electrical tape is not as heat resistant so a hot motor could melt the tape and cause this to happen again. Some motor shops will sell this tape fairly cheap. Then check your cables to see how power is getting back to the pack. |
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#32 |
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Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Here
Posts: 706
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WOW fishing line in a motor, what a concept. We have this done on big motors at work for safty. To produce more rpm we phase out the voltage to part of the motor Not saying which part so not tried here) and if they lose load the go BOOM!!! Real quick, real bad, real $$$$.
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#33 |
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Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Snellville, Ga.
Posts: 611
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When I get to camp next weekend I'll test the motor and pull if necessary. I'll take a look at it to see what I might be able to do for repair. I am really thinking about going ahead and sending it to EMP regardless. I would like some extra speed at 48volts. Cart gets too heavy with 10-12 6v batteries strapped on. Thanks for info.
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