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Old 06-03-2014, 04:49 AM   #1
kb1sxv
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Default field shorting

36 volt curtis 1204 . 36 volt ge series motor. If you short out f1 and f2 while the motor is running the rpm's double. Will it burn up or no. I have a contactor on there to switch it on and off. I also use a controller bypass contactor , with a ms1 hooked to the throttle control . The bypass gives me full battery . I wanted to know how long i can get away with shorting the fields, or just keep an eye on the motor temp. Thanks
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:59 PM   #2
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Default Re: field shorting

hmm no thoughts on this ? I figured I'd get yelled at or something :)
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: field shorting

I had no idea shorting the field on a series motor would speed it up much less run that way at all. I would think you would loose all torque. I know reducing the strength of the field would speed up a motor at the loss of torque, but completely shoring?
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: field shorting

Thats what I thought, I was messing around with the idea of using an adjustable resistor out of a fork truck to weaken the fields. With no result, connected as a shunt across f1 and f2, Then tried series to the fields on each side one at a time, and the result was the motor would slow down. At a very low low resistance as a shunt across the fields, Made the motor speed increase. so I said what the hel , and jumped across them and the motor rpm's went up 2/3 increase. I connected a contactor In parallel with it. To do some testing. The cart goes way faster with the switch on. On hills when it calls for current is where i might get in trouble. The more load on the motor the more the plugging diode works. You can hear the sound of it in the controller like you were plug braking. The controller dosen't seem to get hot. I've been reading an awful lot about trying to figure out how it works, It has to have something due to currents created in the motor and the a2 diode most likely is why it works. I'm sort of at a loss at why it works. But very interesting indeed. THe setup also has a bypass contactor for the controller, but The shorting trick seems to work under controller pwm and bypass.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
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Default Re: field shorting

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Originally Posted by Revolution View Post
I had no idea shorting the field on a series motor would speed it up much less run that way at all. I would think you would loose all torque. I know reducing the strength of the field would speed up a motor at the loss of torque, but completely shoring?
Yah a small loss of torque. The motor seems like the rpm's could be trippled, into the danger zone. like care needs to be considered not to destroy everything. any thoughts? Why does it seem like i'm the only person to discover this
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:19 PM   #6
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Default Re: field shorting

Your talking about the two smaller 12 - 14 ga cables on the motor F1 - F2 right? if it's the two smaller cables F1 - F2 that is a Sepex/Shunt Motor not a Series, never heard of this before ,
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:29 AM   #7
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Default Re: field shorting

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Your talking about the two smaller 12 - 14 ga cables on the motor F1 - F2 right? if it's the two smaller cables F1 - F2 that is a Sepex/Shunt Motor not a Series, never heard of this before ,
sorry I messed up. the cables are labled s1 and s2 . the motor is a ge series motor
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:54 PM   #8
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Default Re: field shorting

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Originally Posted by kb1sxv View Post
36 volt curtis 1204 . 36 volt ge series motor. If you short out f1 and f2 while the motor is running the rpm's double. Will it burn up or no. I have a contactor on there to switch it on and off. I also use a controller bypass contactor , with a ms1 hooked to the throttle control . The bypass gives me full battery . I wanted to know how long i can get away with shorting the fields, or just keep an eye on the motor temp. Thanks
What you are describing has been done for years on all different types of electric motors. There used to be kits for golf carts for sale on e-bay to do this. It is a use at your own risk type deal, just like a controller by-pass is. Using both systems at the same time is really pushing the envelope of destruction but you are right, it does work. This has also been the cause of some controversy in the golf cart drag racing world. People that have seen this being used did not understand what they were looking at. They then assumed it was a device to switch voltage and the rumors got started. I would not use one myself. Be careful with it
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: field shorting

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Originally Posted by TDAWG View Post
What you are describing has been done for years on all different types of electric motors. There used to be kits for golf carts for sale on e-bay to do this. It is a use at your own risk type deal, just like a controller by-pass is. Using both systems at the same time is really pushing the envelope of destruction but you are right, it does work. This has also been the cause of some controversy in the golf cart drag racing world. People that have seen this being used did not understand what they were looking at. They then assumed it was a device to switch voltage and the rumors got started. I would not use one myself. Be careful with it
You mean I shouldn't add another contactor to make it click to 48 volts too?
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:23 PM   #10
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Default Re: field shorting

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDAWG View Post
What you are describing has been done for years on all different types of electric motors. There used to be kits for golf carts for sale on e-bay to do this. It is a use at your own risk type deal, just like a controller by-pass is. Using both systems at the same time is really pushing the envelope of destruction but you are right, it does work. This has also been the cause of some controversy in the golf cart drag racing world. People that have seen this being used did not understand what they were looking at. They then assumed it was a device to switch voltage and the rumors got started. I would not use one myself. Be careful with it
Controversy in cart racing? Never heard of such.
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