Deutsch connectors and crimping tool

roady89

I have a 1000 amp controller that uses a deutsch connector to connect the control wiring. I didn't want to cut the deutsch plug off because the wires are only about 5" long so I bought a deutsch connector kit. The problem is..."supposedly" you have to use the Deutsch crimping tool. Those things are crazy expensive. Can I get by with a regular set of crimpers like a Cline crimper or do I have to use a deutsch? I don't want it rigged up, if I have to rent or borrow a crimper I will.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

mikesmotortoys

I've never heard of that. What makes that crimp special???

When I raced KTM's, they used a Deutsch fastener for the airbox - but that is the only time I've ever heard of that 'term'...

PacerGroup

The deutsch crimp tool is very similiar to a ferrule crimper where it indents the terminal on four sides. You can try to use a different tool but the key would be to avoid bending or distorting the terminal in any place away from the crimping area or it may not nest in the connector correctly.

The terminal has 3 sections, a wire crimp area (which has a small "site" hole), a ring which engages the connector housing locking the terminal in place, and the contact pin or socket. If the crimp "bananas" the terminal at all it may be difficult loading and securing in the connector.

You could try, assuming you are crimping wire no larger than 10 awg, using an crimp tool for uninsulated terminals (the ones that make an indent into the crimp barrel, as opposed to the "football" shaped crimp cavities, Klein tools #1005, #1006 have this type of crimp cavity) and rotate the terminal, crimping a couple of times. Then solder to ensure you have a good electrical connection. Note, the insulation of the wire will melt near a soldering iron so leave about 1/16" to 1/8" of conductor showing out side of the connector barrel.

If you are using a Deutsch DT connector it has a orange secondary lock. So long as you can get a secure crimp (for example: 16-14 awg you should not be able to pull it off with your hands), insert it into the connector, and be able to put in the secondary lock it will be fine. Good luck.

roady89

Yea, I'm using a DT series connector. DT12. How about straight soldering with no crimp?

PacerGroup

The trick will be getting the terminal hot enough to allow the solder to melt and to allow the wire to be fully inserted. The connector provides a natural strain relief against vibration so you should not have any long term issues with the connection.

56servi

I think the Harley Davidsons use these connectors. They have a P/N for the crimper Harley Davidson tool HD-42879
You might get a HD dealer to crimp them for you

MIKEPEER

most new class 8 trucks use a few different deutsch connectors..especially cat engines. try a cat dealer...i'm sure a few bucks they would crimp them for you.

ckiguy

most class 8 and 7 trucks have converted from the deutch pins to a mp pin connector. most dealer will have a crimper, they might let you use in the shop only,but it does depend on the shop. the only bad theing with the deutch is the stupid pin extracter you need. and the crimper. you have to go in from the beack end and feel the click, then pull striaght out. to put it in you simply push in its self locking. but caterpilliar does sel all pins for it. it even has a pin coonector kit wil pins, both male and female, the extractors and the crimper. the rubber/siacone seals and the the plugs they use. but you can also get any of these parts seperately. all you need toyu do is go to the parts counter and tell them you need deutch pins and assocessorys. might have to order, but usually will have with in 3 days.

ckiguy

dear god i cant spell at all!

icecreamman

Regarding the deutsch pins and sockets, I read some of the responses and wanted to clear something up for you. There are two types of pins (stamped and machined), the machined pins are more expensive and are more like a cylinder. They use a 4 jaw indentation type crimp tool. The cheaper pins are stampe ones that have ears similar to many others and usually come on a real or strip. The require a crimper that rolls the tabs up, around and down on the conductor. You are right, both crimpers are expensive but if you use the stamped pins, most ITT Cannon or Amphenol crimpers work just fine. My suggestion though would be to buy the machined pins and solder them on (as long as you are realatively proficient with soldering. Make sure the conductors are bright and clean, slide the pin over them and apply heat to the pin. Just touch a small amount of solder at the interface and if the pin is at a good temp, the solder should "wick" right up into the pin. My 2 cents. I hope this helps.