Cant find the knocking

hondarider203

I have got a 1988 cc ds. It is lifted with 22" tires. I have acquired a knocking noise and I can't for the life of me find it any where. What I have tried is first check for anything loose and nothing that I can see or feel. I have checks valves they are in spec. I removed the drive belt and jacked it up to see if it was really around the motor or if it was around the rear end and it seems to be around the the front/ passenger side. What ever this knocking is doesn't see to affect how it runs or drives what so ever,it is very random but getting worse... has any one got any other ideas to try to narrow it down or anything I could check?? Could it be in the cluch?? this may be a dumb question and I apologize if it is but is there maybe a timing chain in the motor that could be loose??? It is really annoying and I really don't want to cause any more damage if there is damage to be caused any help would be great..

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

raydhd

See knocking noise after rebuild

hondarider203

That sounds like the knocking I'm hearing but is not constant could it still be the lower bearings??

Springbok

Check the engine block underneath the starter/generator to see if you have a bump forming. Seen a few of these in-person and here on BGW. This seems to be the most common point of engine failure on the 1984-1991 KF82 flathead motor: over time the rod works loose from the crankshaft and begins knocking against the back of the engine block. I have two KF82 blocks in my basement that went this way.

Springbok

These motors don't use traditional engine bearings where the crank and rod meet. The rod bolts to the crank straight-up with no bearings.

The only bearings inside the engine are large roller bearings that hold the crank, cam, and balance shaft at both ends:

hondarider203

No dent in the back I took a look at it n the way out any other ideas? I can try to get a video when I get back home

Springbok

Does the knock get louder and faster as the motor revs?

Since I haven't heard it yet I can't say what else it may be. When my motor started knocking I initially thought it was a hole in the muffler.

Even if the dent isn't back there, that doesn't necessarily mean that the knocking isn't happening in that spot (it may have just started, and not caused any visible external damage yet). If your knocking sounds like what I think it may sound like, I'd pull the motor, pop the clutch off, remove the side cover behind it and confirm whether or not you have engine damage.

If it is the dreaded rod-knock you can save some money by fixing it now before it blows. When my rod finally let loose from the crank it snapped the camshaft in half:



If you get into the motor, you'll also want to make sure that your oil splasher hasn't been snapped off. In the photo below it's that triangular piece on the upper left area of the white napkin. This tab bolts to the bottom of the connecting rod and dips down into the oil sump as the motor spins and "splashes" oil throughout the inside of the crankcase, when it breaks off...you have no oiling system:



Here's what the oil splasher will look like when it's bolted to the rod:

hondarider203

Great info like I say soon as I get off work ill try to get a video posted. Ive never really been into a motor that so I'm a little skeptical to dig into it unless I have to. But would much rather catch the issue before I have to replace the motor. My pockets are not quite that deep right now. haha I thank you for your guidance and hope to get thus figured out

hondarider203

Well I have been trying and can't get it to load so you think I should pull motor and dig in

Springbok

The only thing I can think that may trip you up is getting the clutch off. In order to remove the side cover plate (behind the clutch) the clutch has to come off. You need a special tool in order to pop it off before you can get inside the motor. It's just a long bolt with a another bolt inside it, but it costs about $40.

You can have the motor pulled from your cart in about an hour. Removing the body is the most time-consuming part. When I pulled mine I lifted it out myself. It was heavy, but not heavy enough to need another person.

These motors aren't terribly complicated. When I tore into mine 4 years ago I knew nothing about these motors. I have a strong automotive background but had never worked on carts before.