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Unread 01-29-2018, 02:43 PM   #21
What the ....?
 
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

Actually no... look on page 4-12 of your parts manual,
It's the rod that connects your Go pedal to the Electrical Components Box,
it has a spring loaded retainer that you slide back to remove the rod from the ball pivot on both ends.

Basically, you can adjust the ends so the rod is just a little longer for less pedal travel at start up.
Be careful to not adjust the ends out too far, or your engine will crank over without any pressure on the pedal.

I like it because you don't have to step on the pedal 2/3's of the way to get the engine cranking.
(Note: It really doesn't give you that much more speed!)

Yep... I've done that mod!
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Unread 01-29-2018, 03:22 PM   #22
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

so we are looking at this Assembly then ??
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Unread 01-29-2018, 05:11 PM   #23
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

Yep!
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Unread 01-29-2018, 08:07 PM   #24
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

ok see if i got this:

Quote:
Remove this rod and lengthen it to the longest it will go without being wobbly.
Assume that is item 4 ?? in second picture

Does Item 3 Thread on ?? assume it need certain amount on the rod to be stable, is this what is meant by 'without being wobbly' ??

Do you HAVE to remove rod or can you adjust these while on cart ??



Quote:
Make sure the spring actuated hold downs are back in the same position they came off in.
are these item 3 ?? in second picture



Quote:
loosen the nyloc nut on the accelerator pedal return spring until there are only about 1/4" of visible threads left on the end of the rod.
this would be item 11 ? in first posted picture
so loosen up item 4 in first picture, so about 1/4 inch of threads are through nut ??
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Unread 01-30-2018, 07:12 AM   #25
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BearsFan315 View Post
ok see if i got this:


Assume that is item 4 ?? in second picture Yes!

Does Item 3 Thread on ?? Yes! assume it need certain amount on the rod to be stable, is this what is meant by 'without being wobbly' ??
That one is "trial and error", in most cases, you can't adjust the ends out that far and not have the engine crank over when it shouldn't!

Do you HAVE to remove rod or can you adjust these while on cart ?? Taking the rod off is easier to adjust both ends equally!




are these item 3 ?? in second picture Yes!




this would be item 11 ? in first posted picture
so loosen up item 4 in first picture, so about 1/4 inch of threads are through nut ?? Don't bother with this portion of the mod just yet, it may not need adjusting!
Your overthinking it again my friend!
The only way to really get the Gist of it, is to take the rod off and experiment with it! ("trial and error")
it's actually pretty simple!
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Unread 01-30-2018, 01:27 PM   #26
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

Thanks Don

Send some sunshine and warm weather, so i can tinker with it

been snowing off and on all day here, cold & windy
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Unread 01-30-2018, 02:29 PM   #27
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

You DO understand that I live in Wisconsin... Right?

Yeah... Summer can't come quick enough!
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Unread 01-30-2018, 03:03 PM   #28
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

just because you live in the cold does not mean the rest of have to...

it is NOT Nesquik and you do NOT need to share the Cold !! or the Snow !!

let me ask this question on the subject of upgrades and mods:
a CW FE350 (w/ Carb) would be a direct bolt in replacement ?

and I could use the clutches, belts, etc from my existing set up ??

I know IF i do a BB swap I plan to swap rear ends to a CCW set up with the Fe Kawasaki, (Unitized Rear End I believe it is called ??) are these pretty easy direct bolt ins or NO ??
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Unread 01-30-2018, 03:18 PM   #29
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

GEEZ... SO MANY QUESTIONS! (kidding!)

Yes, the FE350 W/carb is a direct swap, but you'll need the 350 muffler also!
Yes, you can still use your existing belt and clutches!

As for the CCW transaxle, you'll need the old style engine pan also!
With the both of those, it should be a direct bolt in.
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Unread 01-30-2018, 04:11 PM   #30
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Default Re: Belts, Clutch Machining, and Springs... Oh my !!

yeah man i am learning... and weighing my options before i jump

plus since i was born with The Knack, i ask questions !!


what is 'old style engine pan' this like the engine mount, part engine bolts to and the transaxle/ frame ??
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