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Old 06-18-2019, 03:49 PM   #1
CP241
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Default Removing the rev limiter

Removing the ground from the rev limiter can be a good diagnostic aid for troubleshooting a spark issue. But it should always be replaced if it has failed.

Some folks have a need for speed. I'm not one of those but many are. Removing the rev limiter is a quick fix to fulfill that need.

As in the case of the previous owner of this poor DS I purchased. The guy said it ran, and he had it doing around 25mph. Stock DS. Stock tires. We all know people selling stuff lie. He only partially lied. It does run. I got it to run. And make noise. Lots and lots of noise. Lol he didn't mention the oil leak either. And I wouldnt have known, it was parked in the bushes with flat tires...

Here is what happens when you decide to go fast the cheap and easy way. I am sure Fairfax has seen similar carnage. I haven't opened the motor up yet to see what's inside but as soon as I clear the ezgo parts off my bench from an equally as ugly failure, I can update if theres any interest.



Good news is, at least I found the oil leak
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:25 PM   #2
BearsFan315
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

nice air cooled engine :)

no oil = no leak
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:27 PM   #3
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

So that was caused by no rev limiter?
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:51 PM   #4
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

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Originally Posted by raggdoll View Post
So that was caused by no rev limiter?
That's my best guess. It obviously had plenty of oil in it judging by the mess and sludge all over, that's been there a while. The rev limiter is disconnected, ground wire is cut off. My best guess is he removed the rev limiter to get more speed, over-revved it to the moon and it went pop.

The hole in the bottom.of the motor is where the balance shaft lies. If you rev too high, the link rods connecting the balance shaft to the crankshaft must have become unhappy, maybe one broke and it bound up, the engine case must have been the weakest link. Theres a hole in the case up higher too, so something went flying in there. I'll know more when I open it up and take a peek. But I dont anticipate anything too horrendous... the motor still runs. Pretty smoothly in fact, just makes a ton of noise with whatever is rattling around in there. I only.ran it for about 10 seconds, but had 160psi compression still.

Worst case, I know I have a good.flywheel, head, camshaft, ignition coil and maybe a few other parts out of it :)
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:45 PM   #5
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

I haven’t had a 290 do that yet. I do have a 350 that tried, but the link rods are aluminum on those and the one snapped and the motor locked before it could chuck the balance weight through the side.

The “weak link” on the 290 is usually the pins that hold the link rods to the weight. Over rev and they can either tear out of the weight, or just shear off and the link rod goes flopping around wherever it wants and pokes a few holes in the case for better interior lighting.
Often the weight will jam crooked on the weight shaft and knock the shaft out of the block. Kinda looks like that one started to and then changed it’s mind.

Remove the weight and the link rods, patch the block with JB weld and get some high rpm valve springs!
Wind her up to 6,000 rpm and let ‘er scream.
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

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Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
I haven’t had a 290 do that yet. I do have a 350 that tried, but the link rods are aluminum on those and the one snapped and the motor locked before it could chuck the balance weight through the side.

The “weak link” on the 290 is usually the pins that hold the link rods to the weight. Over rev and they can either tear out of the weight, or just shear off and the link rod goes flopping around wherever it wants and pokes a few holes in the case for better interior lighting.
Often the weight will jam crooked on the weight shaft and knock the shaft out of the block. Kinda looks like that one started to and then changed it’s mind.

Remove the weight and the link rods, patch the block with JB weld and get some high rpm valve springs!
Wind her up to 6,000 rpm and let ‘er scream.
Lol

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. I pulled it apart tonight. Looks like the link rods are fine. One of the pins was in the bottom.of the block. But the shaft the counter weight rides on appears either seized or bound up on the weight because it's not coming out! The weight is flopping around as it pleases.

Funny, the crankshaft, camshaft, rod, piston, head, and everything except the counter weight and block look great. I measured everything with a set of calipers and everything is within spec. No blueing or signs of oil deprivation anywhere. Cylinder still has the cross hatching and zero scoring whatsoever. Cylinder is absolutely perfect.

The rev limiter is completely gone except the ring terminal wire that was cut and laying in the bottom of the engine cradle. No question now, this motor was revved to the moon until it went boom!
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:35 AM   #7
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

I adjusted the throttle on the 350 carryall until it’s right below the rev limiter- and I still hear complaints that it’s too slow. I’m not getting rid of it though!
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:07 AM   #8
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

There is/was no rev limiter on this motor. I found the eyelet and the cut off wire when i pulled the engine out, but the bracket is still there. The rev limiter itself... long gone.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:02 AM   #9
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

I should say that removing the rev limiter by itself is not the "bad" part. If the limiter fails and is disconnected or removed it doesn't affect anything AS LONG AS the GOVERNOR is still connected, and adjusted, and working properly.
If the governor is adjusted properly, the engine will not over rev unless you drive it straight down a cliff or something.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:10 AM   #10
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Default Re: Removing the rev limiter

I’m imagining that whoever removed one removed both...
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