Drive Clutch not closing completely

Jeff McGuire · 08-05-2019, 08:20 AM

I think i have some issues with the drive clutch in my Precedent. I just bought this cart and noticed the drive clutch only shows wear on half the clutch face. I put it into neutral and reved it up and sure enough the belt is not running out to the outer limits of the clutch. I will pull it off for a rebuild. Is this probably weights or bushings malfunctioning?

CP241 · 08-05-2019, 08:30 AM

If you have wear on the clutch sheaves (the face where the belt rides) theres no point in rebuilding it. I would just replace it. New clutch isn't that expensive, just get an OEM not aftermarket.

The belt should rise completely to the top of the clutch when at full travel. Not rising enough is usually due to belt or clutch wear, not weights and components. Those will affect engagement and disengagement, but not travel (unless something is jammed, which should be pretty obvious).

Fairtax4me · 08-05-2019, 09:49 AM

There are a few things that can affect where the belt rides on the primary clutch. Usually dirt, or wear on the slides or weights.
It can also have wear marks from governor adjustment if anyone has ever dialed the governor back to slow the cart down.
A worn or sticking secondary clutch will not allow the belt to move all the way up into the primary as it closes. So the secondary should be inspected as well.

If the sheaves are still flat, the drive clutch is relatively easy to rebuild. New slides, weights, new bearing is needed, will run around $150.
If the sheaves are worn unevenly or have any wavy appearance then the clutch should just be replaced.
Typically the secondary clutch just needs new slide buttons, and a good cleaning. If the buttons are worn excessively they can damage the ramp but that needs to be removed to replace the buttons anyway.

This is one thing I would say you don't necessarily Have to buy OEM. The aftermarket versions seem to function very well in my experience. They may not last as long as an OE clutch, but by the time it wears out or starts having issues you may be ready for a new cart by then anyway.

Jeff McGuire · 08-05-2019, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

There are a few things that can affect where the belt rides on the primary clutch. Usually dirt, or wear on the slides or weights.
It can also have wear marks from governor adjustment if anyone has ever dialed the governor back to slow the cart down.
A worn or sticking secondary clutch will not allow the belt to move all the way up into the primary as it closes. So the secondary should be inspected as well.

If the sheaves are still flat, the drive clutch is relatively easy to rebuild. New slides, weights, new bearing is needed, will run around $150.
If the sheaves are worn unevenly or have any wavy appearance then the clutch should just be replaced.
Typically the secondary clutch just needs new slide buttons, and a good cleaning. If the buttons are worn excessively they can damage the ramp but that needs to be removed to replace the buttons anyway.

This is one thing I would say you don't necessarily Have to buy OEM. The aftermarket versions seem to function very well in my experience. They may not last as long as an OE clutch, but by the time it wears out or starts having issues you may be ready for a new cart by then anyway.

Dang, why didn't i think of that. You have just nailed it right there. I will pull the belt off today and check the functionality of the primary (drive) clutch but I'm thinking it could be the secondary (driven) clutch. I pulled it to machine it and we could not get it square in the lathe. (its got serious run out) I put it back on the cart and while checking the primary operation I noticed a lot of wobble in that secondary. I will probably need to replace it.

Fairtax4me · 08-05-2019, 10:04 AM

No reason the secondary should be wobbling, but if it is, you should also check the runout of the input shaft on the transmission and make sure it's not bent.

The casting/machining on the secondary clutches isn't always great so there can be some visual runout or even just the perception of runout (looks like runout due to thickness variation) without there actually being a problem with the sheave surface.
Are there any marks on it that would indicate an impact with something? Did you have to use a BFHammer to remove it?

Jeff McGuire · 08-05-2019, 11:58 AM

No signs of impact. Slid right off for me too. BUT....this is a 14 y/o cart that looks like it was abused in a pipe yard for many years till i picked it up 2 weeks ago.

aghead · 08-05-2019, 08:41 PM

My primay on 'o3 CC DS stopped working correctly after sitting in my shop for a couple months.
I couldn't remove it w/o tool, so I did what I've now read to be Bad, i sprayed it full of WD-40 (the straw up inside it anywhere I could get it in), spun it , sprayed it, repeat till rusty nastiness running out, spun it...repeated till clean and operating correctly... Blowed it all out best I could with air. Its been running super great for 4 mos. I may have ruined it in long run???, but it sure works and pulls good now. Slings gravel with 23"s with rear drive machined!

Jeff McGuire · 08-08-2019, 12:51 PM

Pulled the primary. Its completely wore out. Got a new unit on its way.

Jeff McGuire · 08-19-2019, 06:26 AM

New primary installed. Now I'm pretty sure I need a secondary clutch. I the cart will rev till it hits the rev-limited before the clutches even shift (begin to move).

It didn't do this before but the primary was probably so wore out it was hanging up just like the secondary is now and they were probably working in wore out sinc, if that makes sense. The new primary clutch is a factory Club Car too, not aftermarket.

Jeff McGuire · 08-27-2019, 11:59 AM

Went through the secondary again, although its got some slop in it, it's all is clean and should function properly. I'm really thinking about opening up my brand new primary and making sure everything is OK with it.

08-05-2019, 08:20 AM	#1
Jeff McGuire Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Katy TX Posts: 162	Drive Clutch not closing completely I think i have some issues with the drive clutch in my Precedent. I just bought this cart and noticed the drive clutch only shows wear on half the clutch face. I put it into neutral and reved it up and sure enough the belt is not running out to the outer limits of the clutch. I will pull it off for a rebuild. Is this probably weights or bushings malfunctioning?

08-05-2019, 08:30 AM	#2
CP241 Nincompoop village idiot Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Michigan Posts: 9,673	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely If you have wear on the clutch sheaves (the face where the belt rides) theres no point in rebuilding it. I would just replace it. New clutch isn't that expensive, just get an OEM not aftermarket. The belt should rise completely to the top of the clutch when at full travel. Not rising enough is usually due to belt or clutch wear, not weights and components. Those will affect engagement and disengagement, but not travel (unless something is jammed, which should be pretty obvious).

08-05-2019, 09:49 AM	#3
Fairtax4me Bonafide Nincompoop Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Charlottesburg Va Posts: 8,987	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely There are a few things that can affect where the belt rides on the primary clutch. Usually dirt, or wear on the slides or weights. It can also have wear marks from governor adjustment if anyone has ever dialed the governor back to slow the cart down. A worn or sticking secondary clutch will not allow the belt to move all the way up into the primary as it closes. So the secondary should be inspected as well. If the sheaves are still flat, the drive clutch is relatively easy to rebuild. New slides, weights, new bearing is needed, will run around $150. If the sheaves are worn unevenly or have any wavy appearance then the clutch should just be replaced. Typically the secondary clutch just needs new slide buttons, and a good cleaning. If the buttons are worn excessively they can damage the ramp but that needs to be removed to replace the buttons anyway. This is one thing I would say you don't necessarily Have to buy OEM. The aftermarket versions seem to function very well in my experience. They may not last as long as an OE clutch, but by the time it wears out or starts having issues you may be ready for a new cart by then anyway.

08-05-2019, 10:04 AM	#5
Fairtax4me Bonafide Nincompoop Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Charlottesburg Va Posts: 8,987	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely No reason the secondary should be wobbling, but if it is, you should also check the runout of the input shaft on the transmission and make sure it's not bent. The casting/machining on the secondary clutches isn't always great so there can be some visual runout or even just the perception of runout (looks like runout due to thickness variation) without there actually being a problem with the sheave surface. Are there any marks on it that would indicate an impact with something? Did you have to use a BFHammer to remove it?

08-05-2019, 11:58 AM	#6
Jeff McGuire Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Katy TX Posts: 162	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely No signs of impact. Slid right off for me too. BUT....this is a 14 y/o cart that looks like it was abused in a pipe yard for many years till i picked it up 2 weeks ago.

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08-05-2019, 08:41 PM	#7
aghead Getting Wild Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: fed witness protection Posts: 80	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely My primay on 'o3 CC DS stopped working correctly after sitting in my shop for a couple months. I couldn't remove it w/o tool, so I did what I've now read to be Bad, i sprayed it full of WD-40 (the straw up inside it anywhere I could get it in), spun it , sprayed it, repeat till rusty nastiness running out, spun it...repeated till clean and operating correctly... Blowed it all out best I could with air. Its been running super great for 4 mos. I may have ruined it in long run???, but it sure works and pulls good now. Slings gravel with 23"s with rear drive machined!

08-08-2019, 12:51 PM	#8
Jeff McGuire Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Katy TX Posts: 162	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely Pulled the primary. Its completely wore out. Got a new unit on its way.

08-19-2019, 06:26 AM	#9
Jeff McGuire Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Katy TX Posts: 162	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely New primary installed. Now I'm pretty sure I need a secondary clutch. I the cart will rev till it hits the rev-limited before the clutches even shift (begin to move). It didn't do this before but the primary was probably so wore out it was hanging up just like the secondary is now and they were probably working in wore out sinc, if that makes sense. The new primary clutch is a factory Club Car too, not aftermarket.

08-27-2019, 11:59 AM	#10
Jeff McGuire Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Katy TX Posts: 162	Re: Drive Clutch not closing completely Went through the secondary again, although its got some slop in it, it's all is clean and should function properly. I'm really thinking about opening up my brand new primary and making sure everything is OK with it.

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