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Old 02-11-2011, 07:20 PM   #1
a70eliminator
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Default Machining clutch sheives

I've been studying these pieces going over and over in my mind on whats going to happen if I remove material off the (see pics) areas marked, this is where the sheives touch against each other, removing matereial should make them come closer together (belt ride higher), there seems to be plenty of virgin ramp left for the rubbing blocks on the driven, I don't forsee any issues with the drive unit other then a little larger gap at the roller.
Has anyone actually been there and done that can chime in?
I know about the guy that does it for people but unfortunately I have more time and skills then money but ultimately live for the satisfaction of doing stuff myself, but I am asking for a little guidance if anyone can chime in.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:21 AM   #2
KRAZYMATT
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Certainly Somebody has to know how its done! I've been wondering myself and also just asked the same question without much luck the other day. Ill let you know if i get any responses!
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:52 AM   #3
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Yep go here http://www.cartpartsplus.com/machini...en-clutch.html
this is one of our site sponsors !
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:14 PM   #4
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Yes, thats the process we are talking about but how do we do it ourselves? I am in the same boat with a70eliminator having more skills and time than money. a70eliminator Where did you get the 20 thousandths mesurment from or was that just a starting point? .040" total between the 2 halfs. Let me know if you try it! That wouldnt take but 5 minutes in the lathe once you got it indicated in.
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:17 PM   #5
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

I put a tiny glob of modeling clay on that machine surface near the hub and squeezed the sheives together till they touched, then checked the amount of crush, just like plastiguage on a bearing, I could see there was at least 1/8" clearance where the hub doesn't contact where you cant see, not that it even matters, I just needed to verify that if i did take off the .020 that it wouldn't touch somehwere else.The material thickness in that area is the only reason I was thinking of a little off both rather than just .040 off the one. again I'm only guessing .020 as a starting point, you can see in the pics wgere the two surfaces have been touching and removing some material is the only way to effectively get them to squeeze together more right?
I figure to have the new belt handy for mock up and remove material in .010 incriments till the belt is riding up as high as possible maybe even sticking out just a tad. That jim or Joe guy that does them by the gross is probably laughing right now.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:07 PM   #6
Gale Hawkins
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Guy's I understand the desire to save a buck or 50 of them plus shipping.

For under $150 plus shipping you can get the machining done by an experienced shop, a new spring and extreme duty belt.

In another life I was in Tool and Die work. If I had a lathe with an easy setup I would shave some off and see how it come out or pay the $49 reasonable fee. I am guessing the stronger spring as the effect of staying in 'low' longer.

If you scrap it out what does a new clutch cost, $75 bucks.

Years ago when in the Navy stationed in Spain I had a Mobilette bike with this type of clutch drive except the motor moved as the pulley changed size. It really worked well.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:20 PM   #7
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Believe me, if I had the fifty bucks it would already be in the mail, what I do have is the key to a machine shop and lots of ambition.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Quote:
Originally Posted by a70eliminator View Post
I put a tiny glob of modeling clay on that machine surface near the hub and squeezed the sheives together till they touched, then checked the amount of crush, just like plastiguage on a bearing, I could see there was at least 1/8" clearance where the hub doesn't contact where you cant see, not that it even matters, I just needed to verify that if i did take off the .020 that it wouldn't touch somehwere else.The material thickness in that area is the only reason I was thinking of a little off both rather than just .040 off the one. again I'm only guessing .020 as a starting point, you can see in the pics wgere the two surfaces have been touching and removing some material is the only way to effectively get them to squeeze together more right?
I figure to have the new belt handy for mock up and remove material in .010 incriments till the belt is riding up as high as possible maybe even sticking out just a tad. That jim or Joe guy that does them by the gross is probably laughing right now.
Good call on checking for the other interferences. I wish somebody would chime in because it rasies the question. do they take a little off both shieves or just take it off the sliding sheive side...
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:48 PM   #9
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Played around with the drive clutch today and learned something unexpected.
I shaved both sheaves enough for the belt to ride in the very top.
Looked good till I assembled the unit, now the spring fully compresses before the sheaves even touch, guess I need a different spring now, if I cut a couple coils out it would probably work but I'm not doing that just yet.

Ok, I think I've figured it out, the roller bearing land needed to be set back too, now I have that done and the spring still bottoms but I did gain some not much but some, I had to put a spacer under the snap ring to close the gap down at the bearing, kinda hard to explain.
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File Type: jpg cart 009.jpg (56.8 KB, 24 views)
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:46 PM   #10
KRAZYMATT
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Default Re: Machining clutch sheives

Quote:
Originally Posted by a70eliminator View Post
Played around with the drive clutch today and learned something unexpected.
I shaved both sheaves enough for the belt to ride in the very top.
Looked good till I assembled the unit, now the spring fully compresses before the sheaves even touch, guess I need a different spring now, if I cut a couple coils out it would probably work but I'm not doing that just yet.

Ok, I think I've figured it out, the roller bearing land needed to be set back too, now I have that done and the spring still bottoms but I did gain some not much but some, I had to put a spacer under the snap ring to close the gap down at the bearing, kinda hard to explain.
I thought they just did it on the driven clutch?
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