2006 CC flooding out... HELP!

jiminpa

OK, I guess it's my turn to be scratching my head and saying "it just doesn't make any sense." Here's the story...

Friend has 2006 CC won't start, I guess at least 2 people (non-mechanics) already looked at it before I did. One of which tapped the plug gap down to about 5 thousands because it was wet. Anyway, it became quickly clear to me that it was seriously flooding. The airbox had a good cup of gas in it and the filter was soaked. I cleaned that out, set the filter out to dry and changed the oil which was way over full and quite deluted. I then swapped out the carb with another that I was initially told should be fine. Put it all back together and give it a try, it takes off and sounds great for about 4 seconds at which point it dies sounding like it was flooded out again. I take off the air hose between the box and the carb and gas runs out again. Crap. bet that carb was bad too, ask more questions and find out that well, maybe the cart did have a few issues. Ok, find another CC that I know runs good. same procedure again. same results. scratch head... Ok, lets look closer at this. After some more monkeying around, I learn that the air intake on this CC comes from a large flat plastic tube on the bottom of the cart and it sounds like it has liquid in it. I poke about 3 1/4" holes in this tube, front, middle & rear. I drain another cup or more gas out of this air uptake tube. I am starting to feel a little cocky because I am now fairly sure it's going to start and run after I dry stuff up again. I can't really be sure I have everything out of that uptake tube, but, I have lifted the front up and down several times and no longer get any drips from the holes I poked. So, this time when I start it, I get the same results. Oh crap! I shut the fuel off pull the air hose & attempt to start it, after clearing the fuel it takes off and runs well till the fuel in the carb is exhausted it then dies. I open the fuel up again and get the same results. I then crack the fuel shut off open just a hair as I am cranking, it fires and stays running. In fact I run it a good 15 minutes this way peddle to the metal in maintenance mode. hoping to flush anything that might be holding open the needle valve. No luck, as soon as I open up the fuel shut off the rest of the way, it floods out again. As a long shot, I swap out the fuel pump, thinking that maybe a small hole in the diapham might allow fuel to suck up the vacuum line and flood it out. Same results. In desperation, I put the "bad" parts on the cart that I robbed the "good" parts from. The cart runs fine. What the heck is left here guys? When I choke down the fuel shut off, it will run indefinitely and run strong. Why do these guys have to use these carbs with plastic needle valves, plastic seats & plastic floats. Can I buy a aftermarket carb with brass needle/seat & float? (not even sure it would solve the problem) What am I missing? Help! Ideas???

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

shadowman

after all that i didn,t read anywhere where you tore the carb down and really went thur it....every jet every port every opening ........one thing i have learned is you really have to get up close and personal with these carbs.....get a peice of wire and go thur every hole you can find and same with the jets.....the main jet as well.....use carb cleaner along the way and use a decent air compressor to blow thur everything......when your done if your not sure do it over..........i spend 2 hours when i,m doing a carb only because i want to do it only once.....i aslo didn,t read if you checked the float adjustment? make sure its right or yes it will flood like that......you said 2 people worked on cart than you start from scratch you don,t know what they might have done..........................

jiminpa

I did open up the last one, went through it, not much to them. Blew out every hole I could find with a serious air blower (150 psi). It really did not look bad (dirty) inside. I used to rebuild carbs on cars/trucks, etc on a regular basis back in the 70's so I am not exactly new to carbs & these seem about as basic as it gets. Not real impressed with the plastic jet and plastic seat & how the heck do you adjust the float on these things? I thought if I could drop the float adjustment it might help, but, nothing seems to adjust, no bendable tabs, nothing.

jiminpa

Shadowman, where is the adjustment on these carb floats? I guess I better go look and see if I have anything in a manual that matches these. I don't think anyone fooled with the carb, but, you never know. One genius told her it was the voltage regulator. hmm, that is a good trick for a vacuum operated fuel pump. lol

invalidsession

Pardon my confusion, but what is your point regarding "voltage regulator" and the "vacuum operated fuel pump" ? I fail to see the connection. It sounds to me as though the needle valve is either dirty, damaged or otherwise malfunctioning. It's the only logical way it can be allowing the carburettor to overfill.

Chris.

shadowman

the pin that holds the float on in between it is there a small metel tab that the float reat on?? if so thats where you adjust it you bend it either up or down and for some reason 3/8 of an inch comes to mind but don,t quote me on that.....................................

shadowman

i have to agree with cris i see nothing that would lead me to the V.R ...................................

jiminpa

Chris,
That was my point. at least one of the clowns offering advise didn't have a clue about anything.

Shadowman,
No bendable tab on the float arm like most carbs. infact, the whole float assembly was plastic, no metal anything. what else was odd was that the needle was attached with a little tiny little coil spring loaded device that pushed the needle up into the seat as the float came up. the plastic seat was crimped into the casting and the needle was plastic too. never seen anything like it in 40 years of rebuilding carbs.

invalidsession

The spring provides an additional leverage to the float pressure. My guess is that tip of the needle or the seat has some crud on it or is damaged. That's about the only reason it could allow flooding.

Chris.