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Old 07-15-2008, 10:25 PM   #11
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Default Re: 1980 club car

LOL how much are the baldor motors and resistors --i wasnt looking to spend that much money but a couple of bucks would be fine -- how much will resistors be ? also how much will a controller be -- what kind and model would you recommend or use ??
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:28 PM   #12
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Default Re: 1980 club car

NATE --which resistor would i need thers 3 --one is 9 guage and the other 2 and 3 are 7 guage --would i need all 3 and is tha guage fine their about 14 bucks a piece not to bad --is there cheaper or better ??
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:32 PM   #13
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if i can run 72V in my stock motor and just get these resistors then ill get the 12V batteries ASAP --- just to get 72V quick...
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:32 PM   #14
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HT Charged me just under $350 to rebuild my Baldor with a tig-welded armature, I spin my Baldor up to 8000 RPM and hold for miles. You do have a motor already in the cart correct? The way you wrote your statement sounds like you are looking for a motor. You are asking about resistors also, just what kind of shape is your cart in?
I will be building another 72V Caroche in a couple of months.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:54 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1980 club car

thats not that bad ---yes i do have a motor in it now i can get you the specs on the tag it has tomorrow like the numbers and serial# and all its a 36V motor -- the cart is in great shape -- no rust nothing looks really good --the only thing i would need is a new master cylinder for the brakes but thats not bad right now ---and yes i was asking about the resistors i saw a big coil there but idk if i need all 3 or what ...
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:32 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1980 club car

If the motor says "Baldor" on it no need to send specs, I know what it is. Personally I would hold of on buying the coils until you first knew exactly which direction you were headed then if you decide to keep the resistor control you need to be sure you need new resistors.
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:02 AM   #17
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Default Re: 1980 club car

NATE thanks for the help man --hope im not bothering you man -- if i get the controller i do not need the resistors is that it >? --look heres what i want to do -- if the controller part will get me to go faster and run for a while at 72V then i will -- if the resisotrs make me go faster at 72V and i dont need to buy resistors later or rebuild the engine then i will --what ever gets me faster and safe for the cart thats the path im going --for sure----
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:39 AM   #18
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Default Re: 1980 club car

sorry i have not replied my son has been in hospital for a while . the pic at top of page is a pic of my cart i just got done installing a 10 inch lift and still making my own wheel spacers thank to the use of my fathers machine shop. what i did was found a 1988 cart in bad shape stripped the front end steering box and rear end out and bolted them up to my 1980. the reason i went with the 88 is because the rear end is a kawaski 10 spline.i put a jakes a arm lift on front and rear and machined my own shackles 2inch longer so the cart would sit leval. as for the wheels i am putting on 12x8 4 on 156 atv wheels, the reason i got a whole set of 4 brand new for 75.00 the owner had them in origanal boxes for 5 years never opened wanted the gone. the tires are 27 inch. as for electronics i am changing over the whole cart to 48 volt with 700 amp controller,sylonoid,hi tork motor,throtle box,and f and r switch,all electronics are through hytork in arizona . pic upon completion. also i have alot of the original suspention 1980 if any one is interested
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:19 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1980 club car

KDS117--- im interested in the parts you have extra--im located in Miami, FL -- also what lift did you use --my suspension looks just like yours but doesnt have the shock mounts but i dont think i need them --i do want to lift my cart and i know im prolly going to prefab some parts and weld but not a big deal for me --let me know what you used since i also want to upgrade my cart to a 72V -also if you have any batteries let me know-Thanks
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:53 PM   #20
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Kds117, what did you do with the brakes? The Kawasaki diff is cable while the Terrell is hydraulic. Also why did you change the diff? I assume you wanted more motor choices.

Dropnbombs, I can see why Kds117 changed the front but before you change the rear note the Baldor is more torque oriented which is good and Terrell diffs are 8:1 gear ratio where the factory Kawasaki is typically 12.44:1 gear ratio. This is just a side note, what Kds117 did was good but keep in mind to put your money where you can get the most out of it.
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