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Old 02-07-2013, 10:53 PM   #1
scuba66
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Default Top end rebuild

I have a 2003 Club Car turff 2 and it is really burning oil. Compression is good I am wondering if the valve guid seals might be leaking. Any history from you guys.

I think it is a FE350 OHV Gasoline Engine, Complete (clockwise rotation) without automatic compression release.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:09 PM   #2
scuba66
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

I can't beleve no one out in cyber space has never had this kind of problem come on guys help me out.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:19 AM   #3
iKAB
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

I'd say call or drop by a small engine repair shop. They would know for sure. Hope you get it figured out.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:12 AM   #4
Mo Hardy
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

If you have access to a compression gauge you can check your compression, when you spin your engine over cold see what PSI you read for each cylinder.
A PSI close to 90 would be an indication that your compression was good. If you get a reading much less,or one cylinder much less than the other that would show a possible problem. If you do get a low PSI squirt a little engine oil into the cylinder and check again, if the PSI increases you have worn,or damaged, piston rings. If you use the oil and see no increase in compression you may have a valve leak.
Having said all that I would check the air filter and crankcase ventilation pipe that runs through the carb system to make sure it is working properly. Your engine service manual can tell you how to do that.

Hope this helps... Mo

Oh and be sure to vent the compression gauge,with the little button valve on the side, after each time you use it..
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:41 AM   #5
scuba66
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

The compression test was the first thing I did it is a single cylinder and the compression was up to spec's. This is why I think it might be the valve guides or seals. Thanks for your input.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:38 PM   #6
Mo Hardy
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Talking Re: Top end rebuild

Your welcome, but most of the air cooled engines I have been into don't have seals on the valve stems and the ones that have had valve seat problems were cause by severe overheating and that cause the hardened seats to come loose and wedge the valve open preventing starting at all. Mostly on lawn mowers that ingested a blanket in the blade deck or a propane buffer that was jury rigged to by-pass the governor. Most of the bad oil consumption was due to overfilling the engine or clogged air filter sucking he oil out through the carb.

Of course I am sure here are other causes I have yet o see..
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:21 PM   #7
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

Some of the Kawi FE290 and FE350's DO have seals and guides!
I only have Club Car part numbers from my CC dealers website, and they're the same for both engines.

#1016566 - Valve seal - 92 to 03 DS & Precedent, FE290 and FE350
#1016519 - Valve guide - 92 to 03 DS & Precedent, FE290 and FE350

He has nothing listed for seals and guides beyond 2003,

The concern would be, If you have an early 03 model, (eg: RG0303-XXXXXX) or a late 03 model (eg: RG0352-XXXXXX)

You seem to have good compression, and in most of the cases that I've read about, oil burning is usually do to overfilling as Mo said!

That's the best I can do... I hope some of this helps!

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:47 PM   #8
scuba66
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to pull the top end and check the rings and the valve's may be I can see something . Again thanks for you help.

Harry
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:20 AM   #9
Dean Wise
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

Harry,
I have a fe 400 I bought last fall.
It seems to have the same problem at 1500 hours.
I just received all of the parts yesterday from club car to replace the top end.
New head, valves, guides,seals, snap ring,springs, collets, gaskets, $330.+
I figured I would build a spare head, and have it on the shelf if this was a trend at 1500 hours.
I have a 2003 Carryall 272, and this is my first experience with a Kawasaki engine.
I have been to all of the engine dealers, and rebuilders in the area with little help other than wanting to sell me a new engine.
This one runs smooth, starts good, idles good, and did not smoke till it got cold outside.
I live in Ohio, and bought this carryall to haul firewood out of my woods.
I have been working on the low power issue, and I think it has been the head all of the time.
I am getting a lot of blow by out of the breather tube ,and pumping oil down the throat of the carb. I have good compression, and I believe this is why the city I bought it from got rid of it.
I have replaced carb, drive clutch spring, driven clutch spring, machined clutches, kevlar belt, and hoping a head job will at least let me get some use out of it before doing a major rebuild.
I plan on rebuilding the head I take off, and having it ready if a major rebuild is necessary.
At this point all I can offer you is sympathy, but I guess we are on the same page in our thinking.
Goog luck.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:41 PM   #10
Dean Wise
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Default Re: Top end rebuild

Good news on my top end.
Just come inside to get warm it is 28 here today.
I had a blown head gasket between the combustion chamber, and the push rod chambers.
I hope your oil consumption is as simple a repair.
I am installing the new parts any way .
the cylinder does not even have a ring groove at the top , which makes me feel really good about the bottom end.
Good luck with yours.

Dean I am almost WILD Wise
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