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Unread 04-18-2016, 03:50 PM   #21
Gone Wild
Columbia
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

Play around with the carb idle speed mixture setting. It may be giving too much gas on the low end. Your problem sounds like it is in midrange though but it might help to adjust it.

It also could be the weights in the clutch sticking or acting funny. If you jack up the rear wheels and rev the engine, you should be able to tell if the primary clutch and belt is acting right. The secondary clutch just keeps tension on the belt along with changing the gear ratio when it does. Not much could be wrong with the secondary unless it is not letting the belt fly up on the primary clutch.

My cart has a vibration when taking off too.

Are you sure your timing is correct? This sounds like your problem. Poor ignition timing will cause problems like this. Sounds like you have your timing set too much before TDC.
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Unread 04-18-2016, 04:54 PM   #22
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,066
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

Timing is very rarely a problem with those ignition modules, my experience anyway. To date, every single one I have replaced (4 or 5 now?) I never even had to adjust. I just set them right in the middle and they work properly right from the get go. Those modules provide a super-long spark (I think about 1/2 of a rotation?) that needs little if any timing.

I haven't used a Walbro in years. Are those the ones that have the low speed, mid-speed, high speed, "circuits" or something they were called? I recall those have multiple jets? Could it be that the low speed portion of that carb isn't working right?
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Unread 04-18-2016, 05:39 PM   #23
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Default Re: Electric fuel pump

Simple suggestion too, those drive belts can be tricky. There are can be small variations from year to year so make sure you have the right one.

A couple of years ago I bought one from a parts supplier and put it on. The cart just wouldn't get anywhere near top speed and I drove myself nuts for about 2 weeks trying to figure out why. I finally decided to order a new belt and, sure enough, the one I received was an inch or so shorter than the one I had. The longer belt didn't allow the clutches to fully activate. I put the new belt on that ended up being the issue. I think a lot of people think that the belts are the same for the HD / Columbia carts but there are several variations and getting the right one makes a difference. No idea if this is your issue but options can't be bad at this point.

Also, when you have your cart jacked up, check out and see if the motor moves when you throttle up. The motor mounts on my 3 wheeler were bad and when I throttled up the motor moved to the point where the clutches almost were touching. These were new motor mounts too. They just had too much flex in them. Darn Chinese. I made some spacers for them and that took care of the issue.
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Unread 04-18-2016, 07:10 PM   #24
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

ok so i played with the carb speed mixture setting and got the motor running pretty good no misses.

i also jacked up the cart and watched the clutches and i see the drive clutch working correctly and smooth but the driven clutch is vibrating and the belt is not staying consistent on the clutch. The belt is riding up on different points at the driven clutch and thats where the vibration is coming from.
When taking off it seems to be going down into the center faster then it should i think.

is there any way to check the driven clutch to see if its warn out?

yes i used a timing light and got it perfect i do believe.

The motor mounts do move and the motor does have a wobble to it also. Now that you say that should the motor be seated firmly with no move to it at all? its tight in there but if i push on it with my hand it does move around.
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Unread 04-18-2016, 10:33 PM   #25
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Columbia
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

I'd have to go look at my old Walbro WHL 11, but I think it only has a low speed adjustment. You could change the main jet if you had another one.

If your engine is at idle and the belt is moving up and down or different points on the secondary (driven) clutch, something must be wrong with the secondary. The same engine rpm will cause the belt to be in the same place on the clutches. That is after they self adjust to that point.

If your belt happens to be wider at one side that would explain why its moving around on the secondary.

What is the belt #?
How wide is the belt at its wide side?
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Unread 04-18-2016, 10:44 PM   #26
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Columbia
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

A good read on clutches here:
http://www.golfcarcatalog.com/golf-c...utches-part-2/
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Unread 04-19-2016, 07:09 AM   #27
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
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Default Re: Electric fuel pump

Regarding the motor mounts, you should be able to move your motor a bit by hand. Not too much though and it should be pretty hard to do. With the cart jacked up, when you rev the motor watch the clutches and see if the primary move towards the secondary with the understanding that the secondary can't move at it's affixed to the differential. There should be little if any movement of the primary towards the secondary. In my case, the new mounts had far too much flex in them. When the cart revved up the primary clutch moved towards the secondary, probably by an inch or so. That's more than enough to rob torque and speed. To fix, I made a couple of spacers out 2 inch pipe and installed them on the outside of two of the mounts (the driver's side ones) to remove a lot of the flex. That did the trick.

It's schematic (from outside to inside) is mounting bolt / washer / homemade spacer / frame / motor mount / washer / motor.

I have often wondered about the need for mounts on carts as many small engine machines don't use them. Still, I trust that the folks that engineered these things knew what they were doing.
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Unread 04-19-2016, 03:09 PM   #28
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Default Re: Electric fuel pump

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Unread 04-19-2016, 03:11 PM   #29
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Question Re: Electric fuel pump

As you can see is i think two of the plastic tips are off of the driven clutch I'm wondering if they are all like that of they are missing? Also i have it off and was wondering if there a way to check it to see if spring is bad or something.

I took a picture of belt to show the number for 1994 par car p4g 2 cycle

I also took a picture of the sr# on the driven clutch to see what the cost would be for a new one. I noticed the belt is getting chewed up a little on one side too and its only got a day of riding on it.
I know the belt looks to be in the right spot in the picture at idle but it don't always stop in that spot.

Backyard do you think one of those plastic things on your clutch is missing too thats why it shakes a little too? mines missing two i think unless thats the way it comes.

Motor mounts are good it moves like you said with one hand.

yes that article was vary helpful
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Unread 04-19-2016, 09:19 PM   #30
Gone Wild
Columbia
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: East TN
Posts: 525
Default Re: Electric fuel pump

Unless I'm missing something, the two tips on the driven clutch need to be twisted somewhat and on down in the valley, not way up there. That doesn't look right to me. The condition of the tips look fine to me. Someone else should chime in on that one.

I don't know how you would test the spring with anything besides a pull test. There are no specs that I know of. Take the belt off and try to pull the sheave out and see how much force it takes. It should be pretty stiff. Remember that spring is what keeps the belt tight at different speeds when the belt moves in or out on the sheave.

That appears to be the correct belt according to Buggies Unlimited:
http://golf-carts.buggiesunlimited.c...gies/1353-Belt
They say it's 1-1/8" x 36-1/4". I have in my notes the 92-95 models take a 1 3/16" x 35 3/4" o.d. belt. Not sure where I got thoses numbers from. Clearly one of us is wrong. Was the new 1353 belt pretty hard to get on?
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