Too much gas

P-Z-GO

Hey guys, my 92 4 stroke Marathon is dumping fuel out of the carb, but it only does it if you hold the pedal at idle, in other words, at wide open its fine. Does this sound like a float getting stuck, or the butterfly opening to soon that I have been reading about? Thanks for the help, Jp

BGW

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doolin

It sounds like the float is stuck. Probably should take the carb off and clean it. Also make sure there isn't a pin hole in the float. I have actually seen that alot when I worked at a Honda dealership.

P-Z-GO

Ok, so i got a NEW carb for the cart, and now, it doesnt come out of the intake like it did, but it is pouring out of the vent/overflow tube on the carb. Any ideas? Thanks a lot, Jp

steveclv

I have just got the same problem - 92 with a Robin 295cc 4 stroke.

At idle it was fine but as soon as I pressed the gas pedal it bogged down. Removed the air filter and it was flooded with gas and the plugs were carboned up completely.

Cleaned the carb out and replaced it -no difference. So I removed the carb again and checked the floats - bent the tang back to reduce the amount of fuel in the bowl and it's greatly improved.

What is the factory setting for the height of the floats?

At one point fuel was pouring out of the overflow and so bending the tang to reduce the height of the float stopped that. However I did notice something rather weird..

On the engine side of the carb there is a adjustable screw that looks like an air bleed screw. However, neither the gasket nor the spacer have any matching hole - so the open hole in the mating face of the carb is blocked off by the gasket and spacer - is this correct? Seems as though the spacer should have a matching hole for this.

If I can get a setting for the required height of the float then I'll set it to that - otherwise I'll have to use trial and error until it runs right. At the moment it is still hesitating if you flick the throttle open from idle - takes about 10 seconds to pick up and then it runs good.

doolin

You need to try and adjust your air/fuel mixture screw. With the engine off turn the screw in counting everytime the screwdriver blade turns. Example turn 1/2 turn 1 turn 1/2 turn 2 etc. until it stops. Then take it back to that position and then start it. Make half turns both ways to see what sounds better. You will hear the engine pick up a little( it will smooth out) Go too far either way and it will run bad or kill it. When you think you have it wick the throttle and see if it is better. This is all trial and error. Remember to keep count. If you can't get it to change( stop hesitating) the next step is jetting. Hope this helps

steveclv

But the question is whether the spacer block between the cylinder face and the carb face should have a cutout or a hole to match the air bleed hole in the carb face?

I am wondering whether someone has replaced the spacer block with the wrong one given that the cart is 18 years old.

Anyone have the answer?

Also what is the factory height of the floats in the fuel chamber of the carb?

doolin

Sorry steveclv I misread that. Just trying to help with the hesitation.

ruredy

There should be no adjustment like this on the carb, not quite sure what your talking about here doolin. You must be thinking of something other than the engine in question.

No cutouts on the spacer that I remember, do you have a fuel filter installed? Sounds like trash sticking the float valve open. The tech's service manual may have the info on the float setting, look in the tech section to find the manuals.

steveclv

Yes, have a fuel filter but the cart is 18 years old so it's probably the needle valve that is worn. The floats don't appear to be leaking but it's still sptting excess fuel out of the carb as you start to accelerate so it still has too much fuel in the chamber. I'll try bending it some more although I have a new carb on order just in case.

I've done the valve adjustment - they were between 0.02 and 0.035 so you can tell how long along it was serviced lol - the only thing left that I need to clean up is the PCV valve - don't think they can go wrong as there are no moving parts but there's probably a load of crud in it.

Tech manual didn't have any settings for the float height unfortunately.

doolin

I was trying to relate it to what we did on bike and atv carbs and even my cloney. Thought maybe it would be close. It has to have a mixture screw somewhere even if it has some sort of cap on it. Maybe not. Lots of times on bikes we would have to drill the cap off of the carb to get to it. If you didn't know where it was you would never find it. Sorry for the confusion.