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Old 05-08-2016, 03:00 AM   #1
Barnsworth
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Default Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Hello all.

I'll try to be as short and precise as possible. I recently bought a non-runner 85 Marathon. I did a top end rebuild on it and got the engine back into the cart yesterday. The problem seems to be that the cart doesn't have the top end speed that it should have and maybe not the torque it should have pulling a hill. I GPS the speed and it's around 14 MPH on the flat.

I put the cart up on jack stands and the driven clutch expands all the way open the way I would imagine that it would. If I run the cart on the flat and watch the clutch it will only expand enough for the belt maybe to "drop down" into it an inch. I have measured the belt and it is 44"x1 3/16" wide which I think is an inch short for this model. I think OEM is 45"???

Also I want to add that the cart seems to push really hard compared to my '92. I can easily push the '92 in the driveway but really have to put some real effort into pushing the '85. I've check the diff and it has gear oil albeit a little thin looking to me. I've torn the brakes apart and cleaned and adjusted them and they turn freely. I want to add the cart will push easier with the belt off.

The engine seems strong and just by feel on the bench by turning it over by hand it has great compression and also it runs good in the cart. Could the driven clutch be bad? Shouldn't it expand more than to allow the belt to barely drop down into it?

Thanks for any light anyone can shed on this issue.
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:38 AM   #2
my1423
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

First I would put it up on a jack.
Check your front end alignment that its not inches off or anything odd.
Then turn each of your wheels.
Make sure you do not have a bad wheel bearing.
The big one is to check the brakes are not dragging.
Also make sure the hubs are not loose or wobbly allowing the breaks to drag when weight is applied.
The older ones are harder to push. The older style gears do create slightly more drag.
Take your belt off and push it. See if most of the drag goes away.

For the shifting. Did you make sure the drive clutch is expanding all the way? This makes the driven not drop all the way.
Check your drive clutch sheeves for wear and grooves. Clutch on engine.
If you have a deep groove it can prevent the clutch from fully shifting out not pulling in the driven.
Check that you do not have broken motor mounts allowing the engine to move back and not pull the belt all the way.
Can place a piece of wood in between the motor and the swingarm to hold pressure and check the mounts.

Beyond that need a little break in time for full power.
For power you could have a clogged air filter and or carb not opening all the way or too far. Check your butterfly for bad bushings and make it for straight open at full throttle. Might just need a little adjustment.
Did you bbq the muffler? Could be plugged up.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:16 AM   #3
Barnsworth
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

I checked the front wheels and the bearings are good, they spin easily and I have went through the brakes and there is no drag there either. The cart does push easier with the belt off, I noticed that the other day.

The drive clutch is working properly and "squeezing" the belt all the way. I'm sure the carb is working fine as far as opening and closing. I had to check that when I installed the cable. It could use a new air filter but I did blow the old one out with air for a quick fix until I get a new one ordered.

How do I BBQ the muffler? Just toss it on the grill on high and let it cook for how long?
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:28 AM   #4
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Is the governor still hooked up? That would put your speed right around the 14mph mark you mentioned. If it is still there, remove it and us it as trash can filler.

The older carts have no "neutral" as the engine spins backward for reversing the cart. They push hard because you're turning the engine over when you push it.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:41 AM   #5
Barnsworth
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Hi, no the governor is completely off.

Would you happen to know how far the driven clutch is supposed to open up at full throttle? Like I said when it's on jack stands it opens as far as it can go but under a load (on the ground) only enough for the belt to drop down in approximately an inch.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:46 PM   #6
my1423
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Since the top end was rebuilt and the clutches work properly when on a stand/ blocks but not when you are driving it, i am thinking you have an issue robbing power on upper throttle.
Do you have an optical tach or some other method of checking rpm?
If so check rpm on the blocks when the clutches shift and again while driving and i bet you are not getting full rpm under load. Power issue. If you are revving all the way then it would be a clutch issue.

When you did the top end did you replace the crank seals?
This could be your problem causing a lean mixture at high rpm.

Maybe pull the carb and go back through it to make sure some grit is not blocking anything off.

The muffler bbq. They plug up with oil and carbon.
Need to set up a pit where you can make a nice roaring camp fire and just through the muffler in and cook it for a while. Try to turn it a few times. You will see smoke then fire sprout out of it like a torch. Keep each end up and let the goo run out.
Try not to burry it in the coals. Fires can get hot enough to melt steel.
Once the fire and smoke quits blowing out of the muffler it should be clean.
Let it cool off. Shake out the gobs of stuff and give some taps to knock any stuck on stuff inside.
When its all clean buff it up and repaint it. Then poor some thin oil in it and roll it all around inside. Keeps it from rusting out.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:46 PM   #7
cart around
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Your belt should be loose while sitting.

It should travel all the way up to about 3/16" from the top of the drive clutch.

On the driven clutch, it should drop all the way down to about where the plates angle straight. That's just above the hub, and the rivets.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:48 PM   #8
Barnsworth
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

No unfortunately I don't have a way to check the rpm's. I'll have to buy a digital tach. I did not replace the crank seals either.

I had plans to BBQ the muffler this week, got the fire pit all loaded with wood. Also I guess I could take the carb off and check it again. I pulled it apart sprayed it down with carb cleaner and then blew it out with the compressor when I had it on the bench.

I thought the driven clutch should open up more that it was doing, the drive clutch is working properly.

I'll get the muffler done this week weather permitting and then see if that helps any then post back.

Thanks!
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:42 PM   #9
my1423
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

Your welcome.
Also don't forget to check the motor mounts. Pry a wood shim in between the engine and swingarm and make sure the engine can not move back under load. Give it a shot.
2x4 cut to length between the engine and gear case also works.

My mounts were shot and i was a little upset on the price of replacements.
I welded flat plates in their place with elongated holes and a bolt for an adjuster.
Made more noise but no more movement and i got the benefit of a shorter belt without buying one. Adjustable!
Unfortunately i sold my older 2 stroke so i cant post a pick.
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:53 AM   #10
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Default Re: Driven Clutch 1985 Marathon

All appears well but I'll give them a check tomorrow.
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