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Gas EZGO Gas EZGO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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05-30-2016, 06:08 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Halifax, Pa
Posts: 6
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1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Hello, I'm new to the forum and honestly new to golf carts. I recently acquired a 1988 ez go marathon. This cart simply has me stumped. Originally, the engine didn't seem to be getting enough fuel. We rebuilt the carb, cleaning all of the Jets and resetting the mix screw. Also didn't appear that the fuel pump was strong enough so replaced that. Additionally I put a new plug in it which has great spark. Everything appears to be tight and working correctly, but it simply just sits there and continues to turn over. Twice I had it that all of a sudden it revved up and took off for about 50-60 yards and bogged down and stopped again. I don't know if I'm over looking something easy because of not being familiar with these carts or what's going on. Any help or suggestions are welcome. I'm open to anything at this point as I've put quite a few hours into it already with no results.
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05-30-2016, 07:40 PM | #2 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,491
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
My two guesses would be low compression, or bad crankshaft seals.
120 psi is good compression. 100 is acceptable. |
05-30-2016, 10:22 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 39
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Easy crank shaft seal test.
Remove intake tube and exhaust. Cover both openings with duct tape. Remove fuel pump. Use a mityvac or similar device to pull a slight vacuum on the engine block through the fuel pump vacuum port. It should hold a vacuum. Bad crank seals will show themselves through no vacuum being held and you'll be able to hear the air leaking in to the engine block past the seal or seals. My recently rebuilt 2pg popped a front crank shaft seal and I used this method to diagnose the blown seal. Compression test showed 130psi. So I thought the fuel pump had quit and I used the vacuum pump to check the diaphragm inside the fuel pump. The fuel pump checked good so I knew I was fighting another issue. I couldn't hear the leak over the sound of the engine cranking but the mityvac showed the leak instantly. New seal is loctited in place and is running good. |
06-07-2016, 08:36 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Halifax, Pa
Posts: 6
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Ok it took me awhile to get back to this project, but i yanked the motor out of the cart today. I removed the fly wheel side and examined the crank seal which visually looked ok. I'm going to replace it anyway since I did the work to get to it. I am going to order the clutch puller before I bust up the clutch trying to get it off. Could anyone recommend a good place to get the crank seals and are they both the same?
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06-07-2016, 09:53 PM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 39
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Save your $35 it's a fine thread three-quarter inch bolt use another 1/2"x4" bolt preferably grade 8 as a spacer insert the grade 8 bolt into the clutch housing then thread in the 3/4" fine thread bolt and the clutch assembly will pop right off.
When you replace the crank seals be sure to use Loctite bearing retainer on the sealing surface. Or you'll get to do like I did and replace the front crank seal because it blew out on a brand-new engine rebuild. I don't know of any seals being better than others both front and rear seals are the same |
06-18-2016, 08:24 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Halifax, Pa
Posts: 6
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
So I put the new crankshaft seals in and still nothing. The cart sounds better now, but still won't throttle up to the point that it takes off. I pulled the plug out and I can hold my finger over the hole and it doesn't have enough to blow my finger back off of the whole. I have a compression tester (not sure how good it is), but the highest I could get it to read was 30. Any ideas before I yank the engine back out?
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06-19-2016, 07:35 AM | #7 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,491
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
The good news is that you will be an expert at pulling the engine. 30 psi is terrible. Not blowing your finger off the spark plug hole is terrible.
Compression should be tested with throttle wide open, and cranked several times. Anything less than 90, and it just isn't going to run. Remove the engine again. Remove the head. Check for side to side slop in the piston. Look for scored cylinder walls, or broken rings. Measure cylinder bore to determine if you just need rings, or a new cylinder. It's also possible to have it bored out, and install over sized piston, and rings. The most important things to remember are side ports in piston go towards the intake, and the rings go bevel side up. If you are feeling frisky, you can have the head milled too. An 88 is still a 2pg. The specs for cylinder dimensions in this manual will work for yours. Oh, and don't drop any crap down into the case, or you will end up changing bearings too. Don't ask how I know that. |
06-19-2016, 10:28 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Halifax, Pa
Posts: 6
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Ok so I am trying to weigh my options. I don't exactly have a ton of money to keep throwing at this thing. I'm trying to justify it but getting an approximate value. So I found to do a rebuild would be about $300-$400 (if I'm looking at the right prices). The cart itself is the 88 ez go gas marathon. Has new battery, new carb, new fuel pump, new spark plug, and newly replaced crankshaft seal. Visually has no rust and all tires are good. Paint is bad though and some cracked plastic. Anyone have a rough appraisal so I can sell the idea of putting more money into it to my girlfriend?
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06-19-2016, 06:31 PM | #9 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,491
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
My local craigslist seems to have 80's models up once in a while. Anything that runs good goes for at least a grand.
My brother just bought an 83. He bought a new carb, and we had a donor cart for new springs, entire steering mechanism, shocks, FWD/Reverse switch, and roof. It also had no battery. I fixed the wiring, and fuel lines. The guy started out at $1250. We got it for $650 knowing that it needed work. The guy didn't have a clue what he was doing. Your 88 is a more desirable year. I still say pull the head to see exactly what it needs. You might get away with a set of rings, and gaskets. I can't see spending $400 on a full rebuild if it doesn't need it. |
06-19-2016, 08:38 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Halifax, Pa
Posts: 6
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Re: 1988 Marathon wants to run, but wont
Yeah before I decide anything I'm gonna pull the engine and have a look at it. I was wondering if maybe when I replaced the crankshaft seals, if I didn't get them in quite right. Anyone know if they need to be perfectly flush or where they should sit? Both of them ended up back further than I wanted them to.
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