97 Ezgo Gas Wont Turn Over/Start - No Fire

TableRockGC

Ok so if there's one thing I hate it's dealing with electronics and wiring. So here goes.

With the ignition on and the floor pedal depressed I have 12volts running everywhere through the system (both small poles on the solenoid, in and out of the switch under the floor board, in and out of the FNR Switch, Into the distributor cap, and the other two wires that run along side these and into the engine somewhere....can't tell where they are buried below the carb, and 12V at the bolt of the ignition coil by the solenoid.

The Spark Plugs have no fire (is this cause it is relayed into the starter I'm guessing), and the large Solenoid pole not connected to the battery. My fuse is good coming off the hot solenoid pole.

That all said, I've tried 3 different solenoids (original two from local shop and one from a BGW Sponsor) Same result with all of them - Nothing passing into the large pole. I've also changed my fuse coming off the positive solenoid pole 2x with different ones in the event i missed a break somewhere. Same result - nada

And yes when I cross the large poles it turns over.

So this leads me to either the voltage regulator or ignition coil, but not sure how they feed back into the solenoid to trigger it to cross current into the cold pole and thus starter.....Needless to say I'm open to anything at this point before I push this thing down the hill into the lake for the fishes to enjoy. Thanks guys in advance for the help, advice and direction! Here's to hoping for an easy solution like a fuse I'm missing somewhere else or just replacing the VR or IC.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

cart around

Get 2 separate wires. Connect them directly from the battery to both small terminals on the solenoid. Let's see what happens there.

The solenoid should click, and it should turn over with the key off, and not touching the pedal.

krp

I'm having the same problem with my '90, except that I get spark. I'm going to try your suggestion even though I'm not sure from your post which battery terminals connect to which solenoid terminals. I'll assume one wire goes from the + batt. terminal to one, then the other small solenoid terminal. I'll also assume that one wire goes from the - batt. terminal to...? Silly me. But do you see the issue here?

Please spell out the details for those of us who are not electrically savvy. In my case at least I'd appreciate if you would give a step-by-step explanation appropriate for a 5 year old kid.

PS I also am poised to launch the cart into the nearest body of water for a visit with the fishes. I'll remove the new alloy wheels and tires, sell them, and replace them with some cement shoes.

cart around

KRP

Nobody's symptoms are exactly the same. You are better off posting exactly what your cart is, and is not doing. Also tell us what you have done to it.


A solenoid is nothing more than a switch activated by an electromagnet. When the switch is activated on, a steel plunger pulls down, and connects the 2 large terminals together causing power to flow into one big terminal, and out the other.

That happens by applying power to the two small terminals. So, take a test wire, and connect it to the positive battery terminal. Connect the other end to a small solenoid terminal. It doesn't matter which one. Now take another test wire, and connect it to the negative battery terminal. Touch the loose end to the 2nd small solenoid terminal.

Your solenoid should click, and the starter should turn.

Doing all of this bypassed your entire activation circuit, and tested the solenoid.

Your activation circuit is the fuse, key switch, pedal switch, and neutral safety switch.


Now I have a question for you.
TABLEROCKGC's problem is that his cart won't turn over. You say that you have the exact same problem except that you have spark.

How do you know that you have spark, if your cart won't turn over?

cart around

TABLEROCKGC

It took several readings, but something you said just jumped out at me.

I assume that you are checking for 12 volts by putting your meter on the negative battery terminal, and then probing the other points.

"With the ignition on and the floor pedal depressed I have 12volts running everywhere through the system (both small poles on the solenoid, in and out of the switch ".

You should not have 12 volts at both small poles on the solenoid.

You should have 12v at the small pole that is connected to your switches.

The other pole is connected to ground. While pushing the pedal, you should only have about .7 v. All of the other voltage should be flowing to ground.

I believe that you have a bad ground at the small terminal of the solenoid.

You could trace that wire to see where it connects, or run a new one directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

krp

cart around,

What my cart--a 1990 Marathon Freedom w/3PG 2-stroke motor--is doing is making a clicking sound when I try to start it in either F or R. What it is not doing is turning over; it's not cranking. I don't know that it presently has spark because, as you sensibly asked, it won't turn over. I'll explain my spark comment below.

Now for the hard part, i.e., what I have done to it. The misadventure began on a trip of a mile or so to visit a neighbor. The cart suddenly stopped running. I got a tow (F/R switch in N) to my neighbor's house. After trying to start it (it did crank), we pulled the plug and found it was wet. Surprise, surprise, it was flooded. Doh! Being a crack mechanic I dried off the plug, put it back in the plug boot, placed it on the metal engine cover, cranked it and saw a blue spark. I put the plug back in, started the cart and drove home. Why it stopped initially I've no idea; I was just thrilled that it started and I got it home.

It would not start again when I got home. Staring at the engine (a necessary diagnostic ritual) I discovered that a black wire running from the micro switch on the left side of the F/R switch to what I think is another switch (I can't see it as it's hidden in a small steel box that is open on two sides) was hanging down, disconnected. I assume it was disconnected from a throttle switch as I watched a cable going into the box move as I moved the gas pedal by hand.

I grounded the wire--because it has black insulation--and tried to start the cart again. That's when I got the clicking noise. I should probably have tried to reattach the black wire to the throttle? switch that I can't see inside the little metal box. But, idiot that I am, I didn't. Instead I removed the F/R switch and used a test light on both micro switches on the rear of the F/R switch. The loose black wire was attached on one end to the left-side micro switch.

What did I hope to accomplish by using the test light? I've no idea. At that point I was not only ignorant about electronic circuits, but also crazy with frustration. That's where I am now.

I'll try what you've suggested on the solenoid. As for the rest I'll just wait for your reply. THANK YOU, THANK YOU for helping me.

PS I'm a recently retired professor so I tend to be wordy. I apologize if I went on to long.

krp

cart around,

I've an additional point. I used to know, i.e., prior to becoming a forgetful, grouchy old man, that if you heard a clicking sound when starting a vehicle that meant a problem with the solenoid. You made this point. I think that I short circuited (pun intended) on this point because I just replaced the solenoid about a month ago. Maybe I'll have to buy another. But, heeding your wise words, I'll first confirm that the solenoid is bad before buying a new one.

drive fast,
krp

cart around

KRP

Your solenoid clicks, but starter does not turn over. Your solenoid is working. I would load test the battery first.

Let's clarify our terminology. As an aircraft mechanic, I give all directions from the pilot's point of view while sitting in the cockpit facing forward. The left side is the driver's side. The right side is the passenger side. That's important.

The FnR switch has two microswitches. The left one (driver's side) connects to the hot side of the key switch, and to the backup buzzer. It's not needed to run.

The right switch (passenger side) is called the neutral safety switch. It connects to the pedal microswitch, and to a small terminal on your solenoid. Earlier models did not have that switch. They connected directly from the pedal switch to the solenoid.

I will post a link from the sticky section showing your wiring diagram.

The FnR switch is electrical. There is no need to put it in neutral while towing. The newer 4 stroke models have mechanical switches. They go to neutral while towing.

Finally, to your original problem. After you make sure the wire is connected properly, and the battery is good, and it turns over without starting, you will need to address the flooding problem.

I will post a link that talks about a ripped diaphragm in the fuel pump.


LINKS: The first post has a wiring diagram for your cart. Ignore the other posts. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...3pg-carts.html


This is the fuel pump thread. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...fuel-pump.html

Address the turning over problem first, and then we will move on to the next problem. After the cart is running, we will probably check the voltage regulator too. I have a feeling that your battery isn't charging.

krp

My first reply vanished. I'll be short this time. I'll study the diagrams first. Then I'll try everything you suggest. All this will take some time. But I'll let you know the results. Thanks again.

krp

cart around

KRP

It's possible that I'm reading too much into your symptoms. All of your problems could be caused by a weak, or dead battery, but only if the generator was not putting out voltage.
Losing spark from a weak battery would cause the plug to flood too.

A quick way to check would be to hook jumper cables to your car, and try jumping the cart.


Another way is a digital volt meter on the battery. 12.7 volts is a fully charged battery.

Pressing the pedal, and watching the voltage drop is the load test. A 1 volt drop is normal for a healthy battery. Dropping down to 9.6 volts indicates a junk battery.