My Official 1986 Rebuild Thread answer all my questions.

[BBuford]

I have a new to me 1986 Ezgo Marathon, with a GX444 2-cycle engine.

I bought it for $500 2 weeks ago. Here is the good.

Body is in excellent shape. The plastic rear corners were broken, but I already have the replacement parts.

New Carbs have been installed and new air filter. New drive belt and new starter belt have been installed.

It starts and will run fairly easy.


Bad:
Compression is about 60lbs. I can see gas/oil leaking around the motor which causes lots of nasty smoke when I drive it around the yard.

Clutch and crankshaft can be wiggled by hand which I assume means at the very least, the crankshaft bearings are shot.

Driven clutch "plates" on each side of the belt are bent in a ripple like shape.

The cart does not like to go up any sort of incline. It will stay running but just crawl up them.

What do I tackle first? Do I rebuilt the engine - new gaskets, cylinder, piston/rod/ crankshaft and bearings for about $330. Where should I purchase this from?

After that, what should I do? Should I replace the driven clutch since mine is bent?

This will be the thread I will continue to update my rebuild and seek answers.

[kyerik]

There are several good golf cart parts suppliers. I would guess that most of the rebuild kits are made in the same factories.

There was a member here that was selling an entire rear engine cradle (including engine and clutches) which would likely be compatible. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/golf-...rivetrain.html

[Dabble Inn]

Yep pull the engine and rebuild it, And replace the driven clutch too......

If you have any questions on the 'How-to's' there are a lot of very knowledgeable members here that will be happy to walk ya through it.

Search the net for the engine kit, The part number is 4560. I'll PM ya a link to where I bought mine...Good Luck

BTW, How bout posting up some pictures of the buggy

[BBuford]

Okay here is the update. I pulled the engine out.

The bad:
- The cylinder head gasket was shot and most of the cylinder head bolts were so loose, I was able to use my hand to remove! No wonder I did not have much compression. Rings seemed okay and very minor scoring/scratching in cylinder wall. A little play on the piston rod but not much. (All that is getting replaced anyway)

- No gaskets on exhaust manifold or where the manifold connects to the muffler. Also one of the studs on exhaust manifold was missing and someone used a normal bolt to tighten the manifold onto case.

I have some specific questions that I will include with pictures following!

[BBuford]

Here is the cylinder head. Lots of carbon build up.


How do I clean this up properly? I am replacing the cylinder/piston rod/piston/crank/bearings, but I don't have a replacement head.

[BBuford]

Sorry, here is the pic of cylinder head.

[BBuford]

Also, behind the muffler and right above the tail pipe is a flat bar of metal that is on a fulcrum (like seesaw). It has a screw on one end. It will go back towards the driven clutch or up forward towards the bottom of the muffler.

What is that and what is it for.

[cart around]

The flat bar is part of the governor system. You don't need it.

I would wire brush, or scotch bright that head. I had my lip milled down too.

[Dabble Inn]

Wow, It's easy to see where the head gasket was leaking. I just rebuilt mine and gave the head the ole swirl treatment on a FLAT surface with 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper to be sure it's flat, Almost took it to the machine shop for a mill like Cart Around suggested above but got scared I'd get carried away and take too much off lol...

This will be a fun thread, Keep us posted on your progress

[BBuford]

I bought a tune up "kit" for my 86 Marathon. It came with new spark plug, air filter and these 2 fuel filters. Why 2 fuel filters and where do they go? In my picture above my hand is my fuel pump and to the right of the picture is where my gas tank is? Do I just put one of the fuel filters inline between my tank and my fuel pump?