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Old 09-21-2018, 02:55 PM   #1
falconhunter
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Default ezgo exhaust backfire

New member here. I’m having a problem with backfire through the exhaust when decelerating. I’m a volunteer for Texas Parks and Wildlife and I’m working on an old ezgo workhorse for them. I’m not sure what year model it is but they had a new B&S Vanguard 16 HP put in it about a year and a half ago and I’m told it has backfired ever since it was replaced. Why they didn’t take it back to whoever put the new engine in it is beyond me but they are now out of business so not an option.
After reading many posts on this forum I tried several things to correct the problem. I have managed to make the backfire less frequent and a lot quieter but have not fixed the problem completely. Here is what I have done so far.
1- I have adjusted the throttle cable to have the butterfly open after the micro switch. About 1” top pedal travel after micro switch.
2- I verified the butterfly was closing all the way shut and from what I can see it is. Very hard to see this as the carb is directly under a support but had to use an inspection mirror to see it so still not convinced it is closing all the way but it looks like it is.
3- Pulled the spark plugs and one was set at .012 and the other was set at .014 and corrected this to .030
4- Set the valve lash. Front exhaust valve was set to .015 and corrected to .004, intake was fine at .004.
5- Rear exhaust valve was set to .016 and corrected to .004, intake was fine at .004
Runs much better with less and quieter backfire but still has some backfire. What am I overlooking? Could it be the exhaust gaskets. Looks like they used the old exhaust when they replaced the motor but I haven’t removed it yet. This thing scares the bejesus out of our park visitors when we drive it. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:27 AM   #2
StoveBolt
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

You can tell on top the carburetor if the throttle plate is closing all the way, look for the idle adjustment screw where the cable hooks, make sure it's turned out all the way or remove it... it's for different application.
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:33 AM   #3
falconhunter
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

There is no idle screw installed. I replaced the exhaust gaskets and still have a backfire on deceleration. Also installed new properly gapped spark plugs.
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Old 09-29-2018, 08:00 AM   #4
StoveBolt
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

Is the throttle plate closing all the way?
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Old 10-06-2018, 05:06 PM   #5
falconhunter
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

From what I can see, yes. There is a cross member in the way to get a good look at it. I tried to use an inspection mirror and tried to take a pic with my phone and it appears to be closing all the way.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:55 PM   #6
CPS
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

Check and see if your carburetor has one of these in the picture. It is called a fuel cut off solenoid, and they fail all the time. What kills them is improper installation, and the number one killer, is engine heat.
You want to remove it and REPLACE it! Once these fail, you will normally get engine backfire at shut off, or surging of the engine at idle.
B42714A5-3E53-4D60-91B6-4A70DAA2B46E.jpg
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:03 AM   #7
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Default Re: ezgo exhaust backfire

There are different types of these solenoids so it is probably best to take yours off first to match it up. Also, some models have a little rubber plunger tip on them that sometimes gets stuck up in the carburetor, make sure you remove it from the carburetor. You can you a small dental pick to get it out if stuck. Then there are other models that have a pressed on metal plunger tip. These styles normally don’t fall off. What ever model you have, make sure you order the correct one. They are not cross compatible.

616A4218-5118-4BBB-80D8-33921ADFC757.jpeg

8BB1025B-E700-471B-AEC1-B967CFB14873.jpg

You should only need a open ended thin 1/2” wrench to remove it.

You also want to check the wiring as well. Unplug the connector from the bottom (or side) of the fuel solenoid. Unplug the spark plug cables (both), and then turn the key to on/start position. Use your volt meter (positive lead in the connector you just removed) (negative lead to engine block) to check and see that you have 12 volts going to the solenoid. If not, trace your wire back and make sure there are no cuts or breaks in the wire. Don’t forget to reconnnect the two spark plug wires when your done.

Some people say, turn the key to on/start position and listen for the click the solenoid makes. That’s a good way to tell if you have 12 volts going to the solenoid, but will NOT tell you the condition of the solenoid itself. That is why I said replace it. They normally cost around $50-$75

This same senerio aplies to riding mower engines as well, I fix about 3 of these a weak (I have been a small Engine mechanic for 23 years and own a small Engine Repair business) Briggs & Stratton engines are slowly turning into boat anchors. The quality is just not there anymore. As the saying goes “they just don’t make them like they used to”.

Hope this helps, let us know what you find out?

CPS
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