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Unread 06-11-2019, 04:00 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2019
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Default Clutch removal

Any tricks on getting the bolt out.. there's no room to get it out much less a puller.. tried taking the front bolt out of the leaf spring and jacking the body.. but it's still not enough room..20190611_160039.jpg20190611_155115.jpg

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Unread 06-11-2019, 04:23 PM   #2
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Default Re: Clutch removal

Yeah, you're gonna have to pull the motor, or at least unbolt it so it's free and you can tilt it enough to get it out. But then you've got to get the puller in there so I'd just pull the motor. It's not hard and only takes about 20 minutes to do. Remove the skid plate, and there's 4 bolts holding the motor in. disconnect the coil plug connector, belts, intake boot, and exhaust. I pull the carb off and leave the fuel lines connected and just set it to the side.

It's much easier to work with it on the workbench than it is in the cart anyway.


Only other option would be to get creative with a hole saw through the frame. That's how it was on my Gator, they cut a hole that aligned perfectly with the clutch bolt to remove it (pretty nice actually) and there was just a plastic plug that snapped into the hole otherwise. But for an EZGO, I'd rather just pull the motor.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 03:08 PM   #3
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Default Re: Clutch removal

I got the clutch off.. seems to be in time? although the belt looks a lol slack?20190612_160359.jpg20190612_160346.jpg20190612_160341.jpg

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Unread 06-12-2019, 03:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clutch removal

looks okay to me. what exactly are you looking for?

It's a timing belt, not supposed to be banjo tight. That's why it's cogged instead of just a ribbed or V belt that relies on friction to turn things. It does look like you have some pretty significant oil leaks to deal with though...
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Unread 06-12-2019, 03:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: Clutch removal

I was going off what the diagram said like and 1/8 inch slack.. I have like a 1/4 slack.. it has me stumped on what's wrong with it.. I've replaced the carb with a new one from nivel.. replaced the ignitor coil.. new plugs.. adjusted valves to .004.. still has no power puts out black smoke like running rich.. compression is 165 and 170.. has me scratching my head..

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Unread 06-12-2019, 10:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: Clutch removal

Loosen the idler bolt and allow the idler to tension the belt. Rotate the crankshaft two turns and tighten the bolt. That will put that belt in correct tension.

If you look you will see a rubber plug in timing cover. You can tension the belt without removing anything but the plug in the future. Take a 12 mm socket and ratchet. Back off that bolt . Again rotate the crankshaft two turns and tighten the bolt. I did it all the time when I worked for a living.

Correct tension is 1/8" - 1/4"Deflection at 10 lbs "push". Have to feel it out but 10 lbs is not much. I just let it set auto with the tension spring.

Now you said you bought a new nivel carb ? can you upload a picture of it at a close up view.
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Unread 06-13-2019, 04:46 AM   #7
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Default Re: Clutch removal

It looks like this..Screenshot_20190613-054514.jpg

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Unread 06-13-2019, 04:47 AM   #8
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Default Re: Clutch removal

It's part number 13350

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Unread 06-13-2019, 06:25 AM   #9
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Default Re: Clutch removal

Just curious , did you pay under $100 for this carburetor ? . The OEM retails for $190.13 at shopezgo which is the site for OEM parts. Just asking trying to help with you problem.

I have seen websites out there that try and pass these carbs off as OEM when in fact they are not.

You can tell the difference when you pick one up and hold it. The OEM's are much heavier . The China ones are as light as a feather and junk.

Not saying that is your issue but wanted to find out a little more about the one you bought.

You still got the original ? if so then compare the two for weight.

The MCI carbs will work on pre-MCI engines. I have the one installed I put a red mark around in picture installed on the one my wife uses and works like a dream. I got it from an EZGO dealer for $100 plus shipping. Pre-MCI engine. No black smoke and it takes the gas the second you push pedal.

What model cart you got and is it the Pre-MCI ? If you posted it I might have missed you mentioning this. Is yours the 295 CC engine ? The 295cc takes the #80 jet, at least most I have took apart did. The 350cc normally uses the #90 jet. That is the only difference in both carburetors.

I think your valve timing is fine. You said your compression is good. Did you look real good when you adjusted the valves to see if you notice more threads on the intake valves where you adjust them than the exhaust ? The intakes are the two in the middle. I can look at one and tell right away. First thing I do if I buy a cart. Have your tried this cart with the air cleaner removed ? I just put the two 10 mm head nuts on the carb and test drive them leaving the air cleaner off. See how they run then. Just some tips.

One more thing. If this cart is not a workhorse and no lift kit installed then I can tell you I have removed the drive clutch without removing the engine. I did it many times when I worked at a golf course with cutting anything from frame.
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Unread 06-13-2019, 06:50 AM   #10
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Default Re: Clutch removal

It's a mci 2008 model st sport with the 352c engine.. I got the carb from battery source thats a dealer.. the part number for oem is obsolete.. and this nivel number 13350 is what crosses over.. the oem carb.. when I bought it the previous owner let gas stay in ot.. I had to get an ease out to get the main jet and the nozzle out.. I boogered up the nozzle up on it and they don't sell the nozzle just the main jet..

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