What would happen??

gunwhatgun

This may be a dumb question, and it will completely expose my ignorance of gas carts. What would happen if I ran the cable from my accelerator pedal straight to my carb? Just bypassing that governor mechanism on the transaxle. will it run? I got the idea reading the directions from Vegas Carts, they tell you to just cut off that stud that the governor arm attaches to. This would be on the 295 Robin engine not a big block.

BGW

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Dabble Inn

Not a dumb question at all, I've only done it on the 2 cycles but I would assume it's the same difference and that is the best way by connecting the throttle cable directly to the carb. Then remove the Gov cable from the transaxle so it can do whatever it wants freely, The main thing is you do not want to force that Gov lever in any direction.......

I know a guy that installed a cable (choke cable) to the Gov lever on the transaxle so he could force it over to go faster, this was on a Yamaha G-1 but it broke a fork in the rearend. Bad bad way to do it

gunwhatgun

That is why I'm confused. That lever should be doing something inside the transaxle, but the folks at VC say to remove the lever and just cut off the stud, does that just leave a working mechanism floating around in the rear end? I'm not really worried about picking up speed, it just seems to me that the throttle on these things were designed by Rube Goldberg.

Dabble Inn

I'm not exactly sure how the mechanics of the Gov work inside the rearend, but I know it'll break if you don't let it go where it wants to. So disconnect everything from the lever and let it do it's thing, it won't hurt anything.......

I used to have a Yami G-1 as a second/loaner buggy, I bypassed it this same way with no problems. Here's a thread on it....

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...t-linkage.html

gunwhatgun

I think I'm going to see if I can figure out how to get this done.

nickdalzell1

The governor is centrifugal. It's a gear that meshes with the rest of the gears in the rear end, with little fly-weights inside. Once the rear end goes a certain speed, the fly-weights expand and pull the lever that connects to the carb and reduces the engine speed. You can remove the fly-weights but you'll blow the rings out of the engine faster than you can say 'oops!'

These are NOT Honda CBR700s here, the 2-cycles in golf cars are NOT designed to go super high RPM.

gunwhatgun

Mine is a 4 stroke, and I honestly have no desire to have it screaming around at 5000 RPM's. I would like for it to be able to rev a little higher from time to time. I am mostly just curious about what would happen after reading what was done with the governor in the VC directions. It made me think that it wasn't cruciao to the rear end at all.

CP241

The governor is not crucial to the rear end.

Removing it and running the cable direct to carb is not a good idea, however.

You're not going to instantly blow up the engine as said above. It WILL accelerate engine wear, but no more than zip tying or tightening the governor spring down all the way.

These carts have a rev limiter built into the ignitor. So it's not going to over rev and explode.

However... it's not a good idea to bypass the governor. It is meant to work together with the rev limiter for optimal performance. the governor regulates speed of the cart. The ignitor regulates speed of the engine. If you bypass the governor, and run the throttle straight to the carb, you will lose speed control and have to do that with your foot. Not so easy to do, because what will end up happening is you'll go just a tad bit fast and hit the rev limiter. So it will kill spark and kill the engine for a few seconds. Then it will pick back up again and run until it hits the limit. Lather, rinse, repeat.

A tach would be helpful to keep you from hitting the rev limiter and the engine cutting out but you're really much better off just cranking down the bolt on the governor spring. If that doesnt give you the speed you're looking for then get bigger tires or speed gears and clutch upgrades

gunwhatgun

First off, thank you for the for that information, that is a great description of how these pieces work in symphony. Honestly I'm not looking for speed gain at all. I was just wondering why it is that way. If I tell the truth I think the tires on this cart are too big. I feel like they are killing the torque. I have ordered the high torque spring for the driven clutch and a shorter belt hoping that will cure the problem. I did notice however that when trying to go up hill the engine will not rev up at all, that is what got me investigating how the throttle cable works, and that led me to wondering about why it is configured the way it is.

CP241

Clutch and belt should give you what you're looking for. And do a valve adjustment if you haven't already, that can make a HUGE improvement on engine performance.

They do work in harmony. The governor, as said above is driven by the gear set in the transmission. And with the fly weights will pull/release the rod going to the carb throttle. This is why when you step on it, the engine revs noticeably higher as it is getting up to the top speed, and once it reaches top speed you can hear the engine rev back down again. Becauae at that point the extra rev/power is no longer necessary, the engine is only MAINTAINING the speed the governor is telling it to.

The "rev down" obviously is MUCH more noticeable when the cart is stock and set to 12-14mph. Tighten the governor spring so it will do 20mph and the engine will strain a lot more to maintain the speed than it would to maintain 12mph (hence the acceleeated engine wear over stock). Dont get me wrong, theyll still last pretty much forever like that if you take care of it.