2000 ezgo txt 295 starting issue going nuts

Spicyunicorn

So I have tried everything on this cart it will start if you feather the throttle around the area the linkage on the carb just starts to move if you mash the peddle from a dead stop to wide open it just turns over and will not fire unless choke is pulled then it will fire and take off runs good once running here's what iv done pulled carb cleaner 3 times switched carbs off of a well running cart same issue sprayed starting fluid around carb area while it's running rpms didn't change at all so can assume there is no air leaks around carb gaskets set valves to .004 and tried a little looser at .005 same result checked cam belt timing all marks lined up per manual fresh spark plugs no change compression is 160ish both sides spark tester shows spark not the dark blue I'd like to see but it's good spark I'm running out of ideas about to ghost ride this thing into a fire

BGW

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CP241

When you press the pedal down, how far does the switch/solenoid click before the throttle at the carb starts to move? If the carb/throttle starts to move at or before the solenoid clicks, then you need to adjust the linkage/cable between the pedal and the governor so that the solenoid clicks and the starter/generator starts to turn the motor BEFORE the carb begins to open. I usually go for 1/4-1/2" of pedal travel between the two points and never had a problem.

IF that doesn't work i'd be checking for air leaks on the intake side.

Spicyunicorn

One solenoid clicks I have 1/2-3/4 inch of pedal travel before carb linkage moves... As for intake leaks i can run motor at a constant speed and spray starter fluid all around carb area and back side of air box but cant notice any change in rpm also just cleaned all grounds and battery connections have a nice blue spark but still have to feather the throttle to get it to start

CP241

hmmm... gotta say you got me there that sounds perfect. What does it do when you try and start it and don't feather it? does it stumble? cough? just S/G turn it over and not even make an attempt to run?

Sounds really strange for sure. Is it an OEM carb or maybe the wrong carb?

IF it works fine with the choke, maybe try a larger main jet and see if that helps.

Spicyunicorn

If I just the mash the pedle s/g just turn over every once in awhile it will "cough" a little but won't take of until you back the throttle off oem carb switched carbs with identical cart that has no starting issues same problem with known good clean carb plot thickens these were new plugs as black as they are that suggest rich to me but doesn't make any sense as to why it starts with the choke

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CP241

I always use BPR4ES NGK plugs in those motors. What is a FR2B-D plug? Maybe simply switching plugs may make all the difference...

Spicyunicorn

I'll give it a try it's it's an ngk plug... And no I didn't pay 22 bucks for locally it was comparable to other plugs price

Attached Images

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CP241

Understood and I saw that it's a NGK plug, but I've got not idea how it compares to the one called out for the .motor (heat range, resistance, etc). If it's a completely different heat range or something the spark may not be as strong as it should be off the bat. Those plugs are quite black.

CP241

Looking at the specs on NGK website, they do look pretty.ckmpatible, aside from a heat rating of 2 vs 4. Hard to say, I doubt that's making the difference but you've tried pretty much everything else I can think of. And judging by how black your plugs are, it's definitely worth a shot. Make sure they're gapped correctly, never trust the gap from the box.

Worth looking at the spark as well, make.sure its fat and blue. If its white or yellow it may be a coil

CP241

Upon looking at your 2 plugs again, I also see that one (on the left) is a FR2B-D. It's not threaded all the way down. The one on the right is, so is it a different plug? If its stamped FR2B-D like the other maybe it's a different plug entirely. The FR2B-D does not have full threads all the way down... maybe a defect or blem