Workhorse - What do I have and why won't it start?

Huntr

I have an EZ-Go Workhorse. According to the data plate, it has an 11HP twin cylinder 4 stroke gas motor. Serial number 1447814.

How do I figure out what model it is and what year it was made?

Why won't it start?

Cart was running as of 7/29/08.

Has been serviced by a local golf cart outfit 3 times since 11/07, and based on receipts, they look like a bunch of incompetent crooks.

11/07 - replaced fuel pump, cleaned carb, adjusted valves, changed oil.
6/08 - tune up - adjusted valves, cleaned carb, installed carb vent lines, new plugs
7/08 - replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, carb, fixed carb linkage & adjusted governor linkage

Plugs were checked & cleaned yesterday.

I drained the gas and put in new gas. Old gas was smelling bad. Still wouldn't fire.

Checked the fuel pump was pumping fuel. It was. Fuel line feeding carb not blocked.

Sprayed starting fluid in the carb. It started and then died. Smelled something. Plastic housing on the carb that the air intake hose attatches to had a puddle of burning starting fluid on it. Blew it out.

Tried again with starting fluid. It started, ran for a couple seconds, then died.

Tried again. More starting fluid than last time. Started, ran 10 seconds or so, then died. Had another burning puddle of starting fluid.

Thoughts (other than to use less starting fluid)?

BGW

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mikesmotortoys

1 - cart has been sitting over 1 year, calling the repair shop incompetent crooks isnt fair if it ran after they worked on it.

2 - your carb is blocked, either jets or the float. this can happen when they sit for 13 months

3 - take the carb off and remove all jets, needle, seats, etc. squirt some Berrymans b-12 into all holes, passages and openings, then blow them out and reassemble.

scottyb

I agree!
Sounds like the previous owner used to let the cart sit alot and then take it to the shop to get it running only to let it sit again...... over time the fuel turns to varnish in the carb blocking small air and fuel passages..... not the shop's fault.... take a chill pill P.S. You may blow that thing up with too much starting fluid. Ether combusts at much higher pressures than gasoline.

mikesmotortoys

AMEN Scotty

Do NOT start squirting starting fluid - you WILL have a fire. I cannot tell you how many carts we get into our shop with melted air boxes from the use of starting fluid. You have already got your initial "diagnosis". Drowning it with starting fluid won't unclog a jet / needle or loosen the floats...

Huntr

My issue with the shop is that they kept re-doing work they had already done (valves should not need re-adjusting every year). Why did they have to "fix" carb and governor linkage only a month after having it in the shop for carb work?

Thanks for the ideas. Those were the same thoughts I had.

dirtysouth

Valves should be adjusted frequently on the robin engine. They are one of there biggest issues...

mikesmotortoys

07/2008 isn't a month ago, It's 13 months ago. You said yourself that it had bad gas in it. If the fuel was bad in the tank - it was also bad in the lines, fuel pump and carb bowl. If the cart has sat for 13 months, it sat for 13 months. Yea - it's the shops fault for not coming out to drive it once a week

Lets not beat a dead horse here. Pull the carb and clean it. You may also consider changing the fuel lines...

Valve adjustments are recommended yearly, too

Huntr

It's ALIVE!!!!!!!

Pulled the carb.
Float bowl was a good 1/4 full of gas crystals.
Cleaned the carb.
Re-installed and it started right up. Runs great.

Now to learn how to maintain it. Is there a service/owners manual for the Robin engine available for download somewhere?

mikesmotortoys

Hummmmm - Love it when we're right

Now maybe that repair shop ain't so bad?

scottyb

Diddos MAybe that repair shopo wasn't so bad. And yes adjust your valves frequently! It makes em run right and is a lot cheaper than a burnt valve