92 3PG Top End Rebuild - Where to Begin?

Workstead

I'm new here but have been on other Golf Cart forums for a while. The information I'm looking for wasn't available there.

I'm needing to know what, when, where, how and why information on rebuilding my 3PG on a 92 Marathon. I'm a visual person so I think I would like to view a YOU TUBE video or a pictorial series on what steps to go through to do it right the first time. I have about 40 pounds of compression after the engine stopped while my grandkids ere driving around in the dusty fields. he air intake tube to the carb had dropped off so it was ingesting who knows what. I was told on another forum that I needed to rebuild the top of the engine.

I know enough to know that I don't know enough to rebuild my engine without some proper guidance. I could get that from videos, books, postings so I can see what to do, as well as having the printed steps to follow. Would n 89 manual be the same, or close enough, to apply it to a 92?

I'd also like to know the best place to get a rebuild kit. EZ-GO apparently doesn't make an OEM rebuild kit for the 3PG.

Can I leave the engine mounted in the cart or does it have to be removed to do a top end rebuild?

Or, would I be better off trying to find a good used engine?

If you can point me to where I could get this information my grandkids and I would sure appreciate it.

For some reason my email connection isn't in my profile. I'll watch this thread closely but my email is cwixtedQQ@gmail.com. Delete the QQ's

Thanks.

Clem

BGW

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sccowboy

I think the 89 manual should be close enough for you to get it done. I would pull the motor to make it easier on your back. Check with the site sponsors for your parts....they are great folks and will help you any way they can.

Monsterezgokid

Yes the 89 manual will work perfectly fine for you, the only difference between the 89 and 92 is the fuel pump is now mounted on the tank heat sheild, and theres just minor differences in the charging circut wiring.

Theres a few ways you can do this rebuild

Using the specs from the rebuild manual check the cylinder bore and see how much out of spec it is. (i believe you will need to do this using the original set of rings you have, the book doesnt give a spec as far as bore size goes, i believe it does the test using the ring gap and a feeler gauge.)

Take the cylinder out and check the cylinder walls for any scaring from a broken ring.

Depending on the looks you can do one of 3 things.
-Just get a set of rings, and deglaze the cylinder,
-get an over sized pistion and get the block rebored,
-or get a new top end kit, and just bolt all new stuff on.

Also now is a good time to replace the crank seals on both the clutch side and fan side. (this will save you will issues down the road.. trust me)

When you re assemble the engine, use lots of 2 stroke oil kina like an assembly lube, oil the cylinder base gasket before assembly, and the cylinder walls before you insert the piston

Now with the engine back in the cart, hook everything back up, and mix a 1/2 tank of fuel with a 50:1 ratio. You do this for 2 reason, its the proper mixture for a proper break-in period, use all the gas before adding fesh fuel.
And second, it allows the oil injection sytem to reprime itself, many people will just rebuild the engine, and run the cart with straight fuel like it was before, but becasue of the dissasembly the oil injection system might have air bubbles in it, and not injecting any oil into the engine..

If you dont like the oil injection system, take it off, and after break in, run 100:1 ratio fuel, you should be good to go

If you read that rebuild manual carefully it tells you everything you want to know.

Workstead

Thanks for your posts Sccowboy and Monsterezgokid. I'm building the courage to start the rebuild (after I offload the stuff I've stored on the golf car).

Monsterezgokid, can the seals be replaced without disassembling the bottom end? How do they go in?

Thanks,

Clem

Monsterezgokid

The seals are pressed in from the outside.. that is however, you need to get to them.

On the clutch side, you will need to take the drive clutch off, i suggest the proper puller, i believe i have heard of other techniques "Ie using a bolt and a cut shaft" of some type", someone will chime in with that method, i dont know it; but stay away from the 2x4 and prybar if you can ive seen a couple of carts from folks who tried that, and broke the casting that the belt rides in on the clutch.. 5 seconds is all I needed with the proper tool.

The fan side, will be a bit of fun depending on how stubbon the flywheel wants to be.. You will need to take the flywheel off with a puller, and the seal will be right there. when you put the flywheel back on, just put a "little bit" of anitseize on the tapered flywheel contact surface, it will help you down the road, just incase.

You can get the seals off with a flat blade, and you can get them back on with a small hammer, and a rod to hammer around the outside of the new seal back on carefully

Workstead

Thanks Monsterezgokid,

...not only for the specific information but also for the tips on "down the road" help.

I don't know if repacing the seals is a good idea as a preventive measure or if I will be opening Pandora's Box and get into trouble if the seals aren't bad.

Clem

Monsterezgokid

In 2-5 years, not doing those seals will most likely haunt you. and its like a 4$ part.

A good portion of the older 2 stroke issues revolves around bad seals, many of us on here, have seen our fair share of troubleshooting that winds down to a bad crank seal. You got the engine out of the cart now, its the time to do it. You do not have to split the case to do the seals.

I personaly have a 92 PG3 powered ezgo myself as well, rebuilt the engine last year. and did everything, and she runs great!


One last suggestion, if you do decide to replace the flywheel side seal.. Just be carefull when your using a puller on the end of the crank thats notched for the oil pump. If you muck up the notched fitting, its not the end of the world, but you will now need to remove the oil system and pre mix your gas. Just a heads up

Workstead

Good advice. Thanks.

I'm thinking of eliminating the oil pump entirely to preclude any further problems do to lack of oil. The only downside that I see to that is the inconvenience of using premixed oil/gas.

What's your take on that?

Clem

Monsterezgokid

With my cart, i have a seperate gas can that i wrote 100:1 on it just for the cart, i also have one for my 50:1 for snowmachines, weedwackers, ect.. And i just zip tie a bunch of zip ties togeter to make kinda like a chain, and keep a measuring cup just for the gas can. and wrote the ml of oil needed to be added to a full fuel can, so when im at the gas station, i just pour in the ammount of oil for a full can, then just fill it up.. its a bit of a tedious system, but works great when you commit to it.

But as far as disabling the oil injection, sure thing, why not.. Ive seen a couple snow machines that had the oil injection quit on them, and some of those blocks to get rebored and replated(some are chrome plated bores) can get super pricey..

The reason behind the oil injection on the carts is just for the simplcity for the golf course. there are some nuckle heads that fill carts with gas, and im sure they could screw up premixing the gas.

Workstead

I'm going to do what you did.

However, I don't have to worry about any snowmachine here in Arkansas

Thanks for your help.

Clem