wont start

EZ RIDER

I have a 88 with 2 stroke and I have to choke it every time to start it. It would run good after starting with no problem. Today I was driving it and it back fired and started running bad, so I drove it to the barn. Now it will not even start. I have good spark and compression seems to be good as it blows my finger off of the spark plug hole. It is not pumping gas unless I choke it, then it is not much. I am not getting much suction when I put my hand over carb.Did I blow my crank seals or could it be something else?

BGW

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ez go go

I would check comp. with the appropriate gauge to rule that out before I went to far..

EZ RIDER

I checked compression and it has 30 lbs in reverse and even less in forward, I also noticed that when I crank it over it sometimes slows down and then speeds up. I am thinking at the very least it blew the head gasket. Looks like I need to pull the engine and see what it needs. By the way, when I checked the compression the carb was not on the engine. should be the same as wide open right?

GoTeeMan

Chances are you need to do at least an upper end overhaul and possibly a carb and crank seals. Your comp #'s should be higher which is what leads me to suggest the overhaul. The need to choke it so much tells me that the carb is sucking air past the throttle shaft and due to age you could replace the crank seals as a precaution.

EZ RIDER

So how many bolts hold the engine in place and where are they. Any tips on the best way to pull this engine would be appreciated. I have done a search on the procedure, but did not find anything. It cant be to difficult, I just dont want to take thing off thats not required.

GoTeeMan

Disconnect the battery, take the drive belt off, disconnect the fuel hose, disconnect the muffler and take it out (4 bracket bolts), remove the generator from the engine and strap out of the way, remove one end of the rear shocks, jack the body up and the swingarm assembly will pivot down and you will see (if I remember correctly) 4 bolts into the block from the pass side and 4 into the head from the drivers side, take the bolts out and lift from the top side.

A six pack should suffice. Good luck

GoTeeMan

Make note of the bolt lengths and positions when you take them out of the engine to make sure you get the correct lengths in the correct locations. Time taken during disassembly will pay back serious dividends during reassembly/installation a week later. Take copious notes, note orientation of the piston when you lift the head off (if you put it on backwards it won't start).

Take the bolt out of the end of the drive clutch and spray penetrating oil in days before you try to remove the clutch (buy the proper tool from one of our great sponsors) so it will come off without breaking anything.


...anyone got anything else

essness

Take a look over here,
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...iagram-id.html

Lots of good info and illustrations to help you re-build the top end

DOOmsman

A quick question when you remove the carb do you all so remove
the reed valves? That will affect the compression.

divot61

dooms with that wicked avatar has a point, the reed valves are just that, valves. you must have them in to check compression, 30#'s of pressure there is something major wrong with the engine