lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas EZGO
Gas EZGO Gas EZGO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



Post New Thread  Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 08-29-2016, 01:02 PM   #91
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 449
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

my 94 sparks one time only once when you push the acc down and onec when you let off Q may Pulser ohms out at 26.4 ohms is this not within operating range Thanks
kantuckian is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Unread 12-28-2017, 09:11 AM   #92
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 6
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

Brand new to this site and overwhelmed with the amount of knowledge here. I see this topic has been dead for a while, but I'd like to hear any successes on converting the 295cc Robin to HEI. I'm in about $350 to get my buggy going again. New ignitor, new coil, new pulsar, new grounding cables to all freshly cleaned connections. After all this, the cart ran ok (not great) for about 2 weeks and now I'm back to getting a weak spark - only when I press the pedal and when I release the pedal. Nothing in between. What do you all think? Could my voltage regulator be bad, killing the ignitor? I'd really like to convert to the HEI if it'll work with the 4 stroke. I see where it's been done, then problems afterward. But I can make a conclusion if the problems afterward are related to the HEI. Are there any successes using the HEI on a 4 stroke, with sustained success?

Many Thanks!
foglass is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2017, 12:31 PM   #93
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 5
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

In the same cart as most of the people on this thread,
EZGO Workhorse twin cylinder EH35C. Two, new HEI module [BWD CBE4P] Also module [BWD CBE4] thought I had a bad HEI.
New pulsar, new OEM coil [in a different thread someone said ezgo coil would work fine]. ran new wires, all grounds clean, new wires to ground, All wires in correct terminals. Good battery, All parts check out good. Timing belt fine. Compression 175. Valves adjusted. Still yellow spark, wet plugs. Going to try new coil from saturn, if that doesn't work, I am buying ezgo igniter. To many people are getting same problem for a simple repair.
cnrailroad is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2017, 03:13 PM   #94
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 6
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

CN..All that sounds too familiar. I bought, mounted, and hooked up the GM coil (OE # 8104683910) last night. Also had to grab/make a set of plug wires (both ends needing to be female). Seemed my spark was a little stronger than the EZGO coil, but still only getting the spark as soon as the pedal is pressed and then again when it's released. I bought the CBE4 today and should get it on tonight. I'll report any sucesses/failures.
foglass is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2017, 05:46 PM   #95
Not Yet Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

I haven't posted on this thread in several years and wanted to follow up on my initial results. I have to say the HEI conversion seemed successful at first but it didn't last for me. I replaced the module a couple of times and the cart would run good for a while but the results were inconsistent. When it worked, it ran great. But I eventually went back to the OEM ignition module and things have been mostly good since. I do still run the GM coil with the OEM module. It seems to produce a little bit hotter spark.

Mine is a weird beast though. Seems like once or twice a year I battle a weak or non-existent spark...usually after the cart sits for a few weeks. I'm convinced it's a wiring issue where the leads get corroded or something. I'll fiddle around with it and eventually hold my mouth just right and it'll start running like a champ again.
dpatterson is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2017, 07:50 PM   #96
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 5
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

Foglass, order a Delco high performance coil. It will be a couple of days until i get it and then install. Iím having same issues. Sometimes it runs but terrible. Spark with peddle either just pressed or all the way down. Iíve rewired everything. Even has new ignition switch. It had a key busted off in switch. Going nuts just reading threads to find a solution before going back to original system. Iíve put one ignitor (China) in three years ago. I thought this would be a better Option. Still throwing money and time at this ezgo. I donít like doing both.
cnrailroad is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-29-2017, 12:55 AM   #97
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 255
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

Things to check.

1. The mount for the module. It has to be thick and have a flat smooth mounting surface. It must allow for heat dissipation. A thin piece of steel usually will not cool it enough and it will burn up. A pc heat sink or chunk of aluminum is best.
2. There are alignment tabs on the module that prevent them from just being bolted up to a flat surface. The mount needs a couple small holes for these tabs. Make sure a There has to be conductive grease to allow for cooling of the unit. No grease on the unit or not flush and you fire up the cart the module will fry and be toast in seconds.
3. Ballast resistor needed on some 4 pin modules. I do not know the part numbers for them. They do not hold up well to 14.7 volts Most later models did not use a resistor but you can be using the wrong ones. Just run a resistor after the coil on the feed wire to the module to be sure the cheap units stay alive.
4. Proper wire, 12 gauge wire from the module to the coil to the solenoid with new ends. 12 gauge ground wire with new ends from the negative battery terminal to the coil then to the module mount and from the coil to the engine block. This is to avoid bad wiring and to avoid low voltage to the coil on reving up and bad grounds or feedback via radio interference from the generator. They need a lot more power then the stock units and the stock wires usually are worn or broken or too small a gauge to provide enough amps.
5. Verify voltages at the coil when you rev it up. Make sure your voltage regulator is not pumping 18volts into the circuit. This will fry the module.
6. One spark when you press the pedal, one when you release, probably a toast module. You get power to the coil it sparks, and again when it discharges.
7. Timing check it, the timing will change if you swap the wires to the pulsor.
8. wire routing. Do not run any of the wires over the generator. Try to run them separate from any of the charging circuit wiring. Radio/ static feedback from the brushes and generator can cause all sorts of odd issues.
my1423 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-29-2017, 08:25 AM   #98
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 6
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

Thanks guys, for all the info. Last night I built an aluminum bracket 3"x4"x.25" and mounted the new HEI module flush, with the heat sync grease applied that came with it. I ran separate grounding and hot wires to it, and hooked everything back up according to the diagram in this thread. When I pressed the pedal my spark checkers lit up on both plugs - best I've ever seen from this cart. As I mentioned before, I was suspicious the voltage regulator to be the culprit, eventually killing the two previous OEM ignitors - the old original one and the brand new one in just 2 weeks. Thinking back now, I should have checked this first because just before things started going south, I had a solenoid melt down. I just chalked it up to being old.

Anyway, after removing the spark checkers, the cart fired up and ran like a clock. I quickly checked the voltage coming from the generator and it was north of 18V. That's where I've left things until I get a new regulator.
foglass is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-29-2017, 04:02 PM   #99
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 6
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

The ballast resistor is a great idea for added protection my1423.

When you say "after the coil on the feed wire to the module", my guess is you're calling the solenoid the coil? Since power to the module is fed from the solenoid "I" post?

Just to be clear, does the resistor need to go between the module and ignition coil or the module and solenoid?

Many thanks!
foglass is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-01-2018, 05:31 PM   #100
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 255
Default Re: 4 stroke HEI Conversion

On a car the resistor goes on the feed wire to both the coil and the module. It reduces the feed voltage to both to 8-10 volts due to the apx 10 amp draw of both the coil and module.
The car also has a bypass on the ignition switch to feed direct voltage to the coil when you crank the starter. This is due to the voltage on cranking drops to 8-10 volts and if the power went through the resistor the coil would starve at 5-8 volts and not start properly. Sometimes on old cars this is why you crank and crank and they only fire up the second you let off the switch.

The cart does have voltage drop when starting but not as severe as a car.
Also you do not have a momentary key switch to act as a bypass.

So placing the resistor only on the power feed into the module not the coil will drop the voltage slightly and save the module but not drop the coil so starting with a weak battery will still work.
Since you do not have such a large load as the coil on the resistor the module will run at apx 12 volts and under starting hopefully 10 volts. Not a huge change but it should be enough to double the life of your module and have a small protection for a failed voltage regulator.


So to clear this up and use different language to explain the whole electrical running circuit.

The battery is the power supply. Runs to ground on the cart and engine and the + to the solenoid.
The solenoid acts as the actual high amperage switch to turn the power on and off.
The key and micro switch are just low amperage circuit to turn the solenoid on and off.
Power exits actually enters the solenoid and runs to the starter/gen and ignition.

Now power from the solenoid goes through a 12 gauge wire to the coil. On the coil it branches off and heads to the module. This can be done with 2 wires from the solenoid if you want. Any way you see fit. It still originates in the same place just has different destinations.
On its way it to the module have it flow through the ballast resistor to lower its voltage slightly and act as a buffer for noise.
The module is grounded so it can act a a switch for the coils On Off to the coils ground.
The 2 trigger wires from the pulsor coil tell the module when to be a switch.
The output wire comes off the module to the coil primary ground. This fires the coil primary coil on and off.

This in the coil creates a high voltage surge witch flows out the spark plug wire attached to the coil to the spark plug then returns via ground back to the coil.
This is why a good ground wire from the coil to the engine block is important. Or a good mount of the coil to the block ect.
my1423 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas EZGO


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
2 Stroke into 4 stroke conversion Big Block Talk!
help is my cart 2 stroke or 4 stroke? Gas Club Car
88 ezgo 2 stroke convert to 4 stroke Gas EZGO
can i use 2 stroke ezgo clutch on 4 stroke Big Block Talk!
Easy: 4-Stroke vs 2-Stroke Gas Club Car


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:58 PM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.