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Old 04-01-2008, 03:01 PM   #1
ergoman
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Matanuska Susitna Alaska
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Default Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

First time I've ever tried this. Wanted to add some pics I looked for before I started this. I'm confident I'll miss some details.

This is what I started with (350) covered in dried oil (1/2" in some places).



This is the motor replacing it, (motors and more 325, (bored out 295)



First I removed the battery, airbox, carb, wires, gas line, rubber drain line to the case, coil, starter bolt, belts, exhaust manifold, and linkage rods.

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Old 04-01-2008, 03:11 PM   #2
ergoman
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Location: Matanuska Susitna Alaska
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

Heres a close up of the wires


Coil



I backed out the 4 bolts holding the skid plate on with a 5/8" wrench
and broke the 4 bolts going into the side of the case loose.

Then I placed a jack under the engine and brought it up to support the base.

Removed the 4 bolts holding the engine in the carriage and lifted the engine out.



Once the engine was out I removed the bolt holding the clutch to the tapered shaft and using Diver's advice; cut a 4" piece of 5/8" bar and purchased a 3/4" fine thread x 2" bolt. I know its not an impact socket, I used what I have.



I put the bar in the clutch hole, followed by the 3/4" bolt and drove it in with a impact gun. The gun was only set on 75psi and popped it right off.




Spent the rest of the evening scraping oil and prepping the new engine.
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Old 02-27-2016, 03:27 PM   #3
shorty102292
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Location: rogers city mi
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

I will add a much easier way to get ANY sliding clutch off and have done it for years with sleds. Water simple h2o and a bolt with teflon tape. remove the clutch bolt and get a cup of water pour it in the hole till full tip a smite out get the bolt cover end in teflon tape and send it in with an impact or breaker bar. Simple hydrolics can't compress a liquid it will come off and no steel in there so no worries about mucking up the shaft.
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:31 PM   #4
tazassape
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

Tried a 3/4" bolt but it would not go in the hole (missing by a frog hair). Same clutch as above. What am I missing?
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:25 PM   #5
tazassape
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

We got it. Once we cleaned out the threads the bolt started and popped off the clutch.
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:22 PM   #6
tralfaz42
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

The hydro trick works! Did this yesterday. Should have blown out the dirt behind it cause it made mud.
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:51 PM   #7
BBuford
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

All the pics are missing. Can we get the pics back please?
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:14 AM   #8
rockinr382
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

Thanks for the info, do you still have the pictures? I am about to remove my engine, need direction on holding down bolts, and location, on ezgo txt gas 1996
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:24 PM   #9
Trooper52
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

I got a 3/4 fine and it did not work and it looks to be the same clutch
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:52 PM   #10
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper52 View Post
I got a 3/4 fine and it did not work and it looks to be the same clutch
Which method did you use?
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