A Few Carb questions for you guys..

Garywv

I just got a 1995 according to the Serial # from EZ go , and it has a Robin 295 4 stroke in it ,
#1 It runs great on start up and all speed ranges until we have been running for 2 or 3 miles ( I assume ) but then it just wants to shut down like it is fuel starved . I am thinking of just rebuilding the carb but I am still looking to see if I can get parts BEFORE I tear it down.Then if I run just over idle it seems to be ok for a while but if you go back to half to full throttle it will not take it.

I just checked the fuel pump and it pumps out plenty of fuel.

#2 then the 2 vent lines on the side of the carb just stick out the side are not connected to anything should they be?Also the other day after running what seemed to be hot (it had just started spitting like low fuel and no RPM or power) when looking in the engine compartment there was a few drops of fuel dripping out of one of the vent lines.
I think it is over heating after a few miles of running..what do you guys think??

BGW

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98 EZGO

When you decide to rebuild the carb make sure the float setting is right in the bowl. If its set to low there isnt enough fuel and to high floods out. Also bud light had a great idea of taking your fuel cap off and running it. This way you can check to see if the vent in the cap is plugged.

The two vent lines on the side of the carb just hang down next to the fuel hose going to the carb. You might check those too make sure they are open and clean. Just some ideas to try! Good Luck

Garywv

Thanks for the info,
we did the vapor lock check when it first started doing it but no go..So if it warms up in a little while I am going to pull the plugs and do a compression check first then check the plugs , then soak the carb I guess..then look for parts, does anyone know if any of the carb parts in the ezgo will match any type of regular floats from any typ of lawn mowers? I do have a lawnmower shop right down the road but not a golf cart repair , have to wait for mailed parts for them is why I ask.
Thanks for the help
Gary

Garywv

Welll , I did a compression check and not too good ,,,90 psi cold and hits 120 with a little oil added to the cylinder,, Soooooo looks like it is over heating due to needing a top side rebuild and carb job to me ,,
I did not even check the compression at running temp because if cold was 90 I doubt it would go up much.. I might pull the head and check the piston and cylinders and see if I might be able to get away with just a hatch and new set of rings....
But the thing runs great , pops off as soon as you touch the gas never hesitates just after it gets hot or warmed up , and still does not make any type of engine noise like a wear or squeal..So I hop the lower end is OK for now.Thanks for any info at this point now, I need it.
Gary

98 EZGO

It sounds like you might of found the problem. or I should say I do know the valves on these carts are pretty touchy too! The clearence is only .004 and they are real bad about tighten up. You can go from zoom zoom to dead in the water real quick. As far as parts goes there are several places to get top end kits or complete rebuild kits. Buggiesunlimited.com, groovycarts.com, etc.... I believe I will be tearing into my 98 next spring, so my get some pointers from you!

Garywv

Well 98 EZGO , do you think that if the valves are just getting too tight after it gets a little heat built up in it , that I might be able to hold off on a ring and top end for a few months?
I am getting ready to pull the carburater off now to see if there is any junk floating around it and set the float , I hope I do not rip a gasket, I want to locate a few of the problems before just ordering a full rebuild kit at this point , we just got it a few weeks ago and just working things out now..
Gary

98 EZGO

I think it is worth a try. You don't know the last time they were adjusted, and its cheaper than rebuilding the engine right now.

Garywv

Well Just got the carb off and will let it set in the cleaner tank overnight at least.. Well sort of good news though The bowl was FULL of crap and stuff so going to give it an overnight soak and then see If I can get to the jets , Tried a few minutes ago but the high speed is froze in there must be varnished up good in the threads too..So going to hope to have it back together tommorrow and give it a test run to see if it will heat up , but there was enough stuff in the bottom of the bowl that it could have been picking up..
Well All I can do now is hope it helps just a few degrees now. Then get on the valve adjustment as well..
Gary

Garywv

And also for information , the friend that ran the cart until it overheated yesterday used a infrared thermometer on it and afte running it was 195 on the head at the spark plug , 225 at the lower part of the head near the block and exhaust wast 450.He is also half owner of the cart we just got it for hunting , I have a disability permit to run on WMAs and public hunting areas.
Does anyone know what the running temps should be?
I would assume that between 200 and 250 at the head would be about right but it might change if I get the carb working right and also richen the mixture up a little.
Or is that too hot?
And that was when it was when it was just starting to spit and sputter down after about 10 minutes of wide open running..But even when it starts sputtering it will keep running just have to keep running it real slow , just a little speed over idle..
Gary

Garywv

OK, I found ANOTHER little wrinkle in the system,,,
I took the carb out of my tank this morning , looked good so I headed off to the small engine repair guy to get a few things , he looked at the carb and said he would throw it in his sonic cleaner for a while to help clean out more stuff. Came back in an hour and the carb looked great , nuch better than the reg carb soak.. So when I was there I grabbed some plugs to fit because the plugs that where in the motor where NGK 4HS and the PDF file from this site says to use a NGK FR2A-D he did not have those Soooo he gave me some NGK BPR5ES plugs , and that is what the 350 uses so when I pulled out the other plugs they where NGK 4HS plugs,,,,they are 1/4" shorter than the recomended plugs from the spec sheet so I measured the threads in the head and noticed whoever put plugs in it last time put in too short of a plug , I measured and re-measured to make sure that the plugs would not hit the piston and even counted the darn threads in the head,,, So what I think MIGHT have been happening with the over heating is the too short of a plug was letting the extra threads pre-ignite and over heat, DOes that sound like a reasonable deduction for an overheating problem?
I know that I am borderline with low compression at 90 cold and it will need at least rings if nothing else is worn out when I take the head off but I just finished and it is raining and dark so I cant go out and run it to see if it will overheat on me now, so I will do that tommorow..
WHo said that a little golf cart engine cant be hard to work on? Good night this thing is running me ragged, but it is running like a top at idle and when I goose the engine with the parking brake on..
If anyone read this book I just wrote any ideas if that might have been a plausible explanation for the overheating?
THanks
Gary