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-   -   Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!! (http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-ezgo/43752-rebuilt-87-ezgo-engine-still-having-issues-please.html)

YourCustomCart 01-31-2011 10:57 AM

Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
Hi all,
I bought an 87 EzGo Marathon from a buddy last November. It barely ran when I purchased it. After doing research on this and other golf cart forums, I determined that it was time for a rebuild. I watched an engine rebuild video on YouTube and figured that it looked simple enough. It couldn't be anymore difficult than rebuilding the LT1 in my 96 Impala so I purchased a rebuild kit for my 2 stroke 295cc EZGO Robin engine that included the cylinder, piston head, rings, and gaskets.

I reassembled the engine with the new components and was happy that it was so simple to do. I also decided to go ahead and replace the fuel pump, carb gaskets, and reed valve gaskets.

Before the rebuild, my engine only had 60psi of compression at wide open throttle. After the rebuild it has 117psi of compression and holds it over night. I installed a new plug and checked for spark by grounding it to the engine. The spark is sufficient. The oil pump has been deleted and I used mixed gasoline.The engine fired up after about ten seconds of starting.

I took the cart out for a run and was somewhat disappointed that it was not moving very quickly. Top speed of about 7-10 mph. I then pulled the clutch covers off and thoroughly cleaned out the insides of both clutches. Both clutches move/expand very nicely now.

However, for some reason the engine hardly runs now and spits/sputters/pops out of the exhaust. I have cleaned the carb out, but it wasn't really that dirty since the last time I did it. I did not find the jets in the carburetor though. Cleaning the jets is the last thing I know to try.

I have new crank seals for the engine, but I couldn't figure out how to get to the old ones to remove and replace...It seems that all of the engine's electrical functions/components are in tact and working, but the engine still runs like crap.

What else do I need to do? :help:

bauschracing 01-31-2011 12:41 PM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
Pull the engine back out and replace both seals. You can pry them out using a screwdriver or cotter pin puller screwdriver. Pay close attention to how the pulser coil is mounted. If this doesn't correct the issue you need to make sure that the correct plug is installed and do an HEI conversion and coil.
Mike

GoTeeMan 01-31-2011 02:35 PM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
Verfiy you have the spring between the throttle lever and the cable stop and that it is compressed with your foot off the go pedal. This is to keep the engine from backfiring.

Replace the crank seals.

Did you plug the hole in the top of the reed housing where the oiler went? That will be a vacuum leak you need to take care of.

Report back.

EZ-GoingJon 01-31-2011 06:12 PM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
Sorry, i messed up, my reply is on the bottom!

EZ-GoingJon 01-31-2011 07:54 PM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
WELCOME!!

First off, i think that the 1987 had a 244cc 2PG motor. You said you got a rebuild kit for a 295cc. Is this correct? If so, is there any way you got the wrong rebuild kit?:shock: Also, 117 after a rebuild is not very good. Should be around 140psi, maybe higher with a FRESH rebuild. I am sure someone else will chime in on this.

PS. Run your first tank of gas at a 40:1 ratio! after the first tank, run 128:1, which is 1 oz. of oil to 1 Gal. of gas!:thumbup: Good luck!

Jon

Dave Box 02-01-2011 07:48 AM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
However, for some reason the engine hardly runs now and spits/sputters/pops out of the exhaust. I have cleaned the carb out, but it wasn't really that dirty since the last time I did it. I did not find the jets in the carburetor though. Cleaning the jets is the last thing I know to try.

I think that your answer lies in the paragraph above. If you didn't find your jets then you did not clean your carburetor. I would take the carburetor off and remove the nut that holds the bowl on, this is the main jet. Clean all of the orifices well and check they are all clear. Now look into the carburetor body, the jet touches against the main nozzle which is screwed into the body. Unscrew it and again clean the orifices. Whilst it is apart it is probably worth sliding out the pin that holds the float in and inspecting the float for damage. Replace everything and flip the carburetor over screwed down from the top is the slow running jet, unscrew this and ...... well by now you get the picture.

If you use carb cleaner mind your eyes and face that is nasty stuff. Still have issues, shout out.
Dave

BrewCityMusic 02-01-2011 08:00 AM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
1 Attachment(s)
This may help you locate the jets a bit easier - Dave's right, if you didn't pull and clean them, the carb isn't cleaned at all !!!

YourCustomCart 02-01-2011 03:45 PM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by EZ-GoingJon (Post 514390)
WELCOME!!

First off, i think that the 1987 had a 244cc 2PG motor. You said you got a rebuild kit for a 295cc. Is this correct? If so, is there any way you got the wrong rebuild kit?:shock: Also, 117 after a rebuild is not very good. Should be around 140psi, maybe higher with a FRESH rebuild. I am sure someone else will chime in on this.

PS. Run your first tank of gas at a 40:1 ratio! after the first tank, run 128:1, which is 1 oz. of oil to 1 Gal. of gas!:thumbup: Good luck!

Jon

  • OOPS, that was a typo. My engine is the 244cc motor. I used the engine rebuilt kit from everythingcarts.com. The actual link is: https://www.everythingcarts.com/p-39...rhaul-kit.aspx. I messed up the first set of rings and ordered a replacement set of standard ring rings for 76-93 (2-cycle EZGO engines) from buggiesunlimited.com
  • I don't understand why my compression would be that much lower than the suggested 140psi. Could the compression loss be the result of bad crank seals? I used all new seals. Only thing I didn't do was use rtv on the cylinder base gasket. Should I have used the rtv sealant along with the paper gasket between the crankcase and cylinder?
  • How do you get the crank seals off of the crank shaft? The new ones I purchased are encased in a metal ring and cant be split apart to get over the shaft that comes out of the engine. Will have to some how remove the fan mount and clutch, and pulley?
  • There is a screw blocking the hole in the top of the reed valve housing.
  • I took the fuel bowl off and removed the floater pin to access the jet under/above the float. I thoroughly cleaned the jet and the hole it sits in. I noticed that the bolt that holds the fuel bowl to the bottom of the carb has a screw of some sort inside of it so thoroughly cleaned that too... No difference after reinstalling the carb.
  • As I said before, the engine does run, but just barely. Would it be a bad idea to spray wd-40 or carb cleaner on all of the seals while its running to see if I hear a difference in the engines sound or running ability?
  • There was a spring attached to a bolt on top of the motor on the bracket where the choke and throttle cables pass through. It wasn't attached to anything, so I removed it. Bad idea?

Dave Box 02-02-2011 08:05 AM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
I don't understand why my compression would be that much lower than the suggested 140psi. Could the compression loss be the result of bad crank seals? I used all new seals. Only thing I didn't do was use rtv on the cylinder base gasket. Should I have used the rtv sealant along with the paper gasket between the crankcase and cylinder?

Don't sweat the compression. Your rings have not yet bedded in. After 10 hours or so of running and with a little carbon build up you will be at 140 +. The crank seals have no bearing at all on your cylinder pressure, although we will discuss them later. There is no need to use sealant on the bottom gasket, just make sure they are torqued to 24 foot pounds (the head should be 22 foot pounds)

How do you get the crank seals off of the crank shaft? The new ones I purchased are encased in a metal ring and cant be split apart to get over the shaft that comes out of the engine. Will have to some how remove the fan mount and clutch, and pulley?

Yes I am afraid you missed your opportunity to replace the seals. If you have to change them the engine is going to come out again and you will need to remove the clutch and the flywheel. Both of these are tasks known to drive strong men to tears of impotent rage. The good news is that many, many have done it and when you do you will be able to look your fellow man in the eyes and say "yes I was there". If you do need to do it, shout out and we call all walk you through it.

There is a screw blocking the hole in the top of the reed valve housing.
I took the fuel bowl off and removed the floater pin to access the jet under/above the float. I thoroughly cleaned the jet and the hole it sits in. I noticed that the bolt that holds the fuel bowl to the bottom of the carb has a screw of some sort inside of it so thoroughly cleaned that too... No difference after reinstalling the carb.

The 2PG, like all 2 cycle engines, is remarkably intolerant of air leaks so please be sure that bolt is really sealing the elbow, also check the integrity of the bolts holding the elbow on. You do not specifically mention the nozzles I detailed in my previous answer, you did unscrew and clean them yes?

As I said before, the engine does run, but just barely. Would it be a bad idea to spray wd-40 or carb cleaner on all of the seals while its running to see if I hear a difference in the engines sound or running ability?

You can try to squirt some WD40 onto the rear crankshaft seal and see what happens. You will have no success with the front seal as it is well hidden by the flywheel.

There was a spring attached to a bolt on top of the motor on the bracket where the choke and throttle cables pass through. It wasn't attached to anything, so I removed it. Bad idea?

At this stage the spring is inconsequential. Let's get your engine running first and we can deal with the minutia later.

There are some other issues that we can address to see what is happening with your 2PG.

I don't think you have a blocked muffler as this generally happens once the engine is hot but it might be worth loosening the pipe / muffler bolts to create an air gap and give the exhaust another escape path.

Are you 100% certain that you installed the piston correctly? The symptoms of a reversed piston are an engine that will barely run! You can check by removing the exhaust pipe and getting someone to rotate the engine whilst you peer up into the engine with a flashlight. If you see a port in the skirt you are in the brown stuff.

Worn crankshaft seals can sometimes be diagnosed by running the car in reverse. Sounds crazy but it's true. What happens is that the seals wear in a pattern caused by the engine spending 99% of its running time in forward. In reverse a little slack gets picked up and the seal gets better. Of course this won't work if the seals are completely shot or dry rotted due to inactivity but it cost you nothing to give it a go.

You will appreciate that it is always difficult to diagnose remotely but I hope this answer gives you some pointers. I think at some stage you are going to have to bite the bullet and change those seals if only to eliminate them. The bad news is that the engine is coming out again. The good news is that they are only $7 a pair.
Good Luck
Dave

GoTeeMan 02-02-2011 08:34 AM

Re: Rebuilt my 87 EZGO Engine, still having issues, please help!!!
 
The spring in this picture should be compressed when you have your foot off the pedal, this keeps the throttle closed for the first inch or so of travel of the pedal to get away from the microswitch at the base of the go pedal. This also closes the throttle completely when you let off the gas to keep it from backfiring.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...rt-016-web.jpg


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