No spark after rebuild

skimaniac6

Here I am again begging for help. I just rebuilt my 91 2 stroke ezgo (9hp engine) and when I try to start it the engine runs from the generator but it seems like it isn't getting any spark. I pulled the plug to see if it would spark to the cylinder but I am getting nothing. My fear is I messed up on the inner electric when I did the seals and I will have to pull the motor and start over. Any ideas what to check for with a meter so figure out why I am not getting a spark?
Thanks....

BGW

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BrewCityMusic

the only "inner electric" is the pulsar coil - there are 2 wires coming from your engine, one red, one blue. They should ohm out at roughly 120-160ohms (disconnect them first and test the engine side) - if that's OK, do a double-check by switching your DMM to the lowest AC voltage setting and crank the motor over, you should get about .75 -1.75VAC from those wires (if so, the "internal" electrical is fine).

Let us know how that works, then we can help you trace the problem from there - here's a 91 electrical diagram, it may help you

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skimaniac6

I took a reading before posting and it was around 110, I got worried because I thought the manual said it should be 75 ohms. I did the ac test and came up with .280 vac So I sit waiting for help, I can wire a house but auto electric is still a bit of a mystery to me. I'll take any ideas you have.
Thanks!

madoc1

ski, there a diagnostic flow chart in the gas tech section at the top of this section. the thread with gold stars. you can check the coil, but not the igniter. sounds like your pulsar is good-it is just that-a pulse trigger for the igniter. also double check all of your wires and grounds using the schematic brew posted.
if you need to change the igniter you might look into using an hei module.

Dave Box

What the other guys said The good news is that your pulsar is working. So either your coil is shot or the ignitor. I would be tempted to go for the coil first as it is the cheaper item. Look for the high power 12v coils on Ebay and try that. If it turns out to be the ignitor than you will need to perform the HEI mod which is detailed several places here. The coil will not be wasted as it will give you a better spark that the OEM and will compliment the HEI device.
Good Luck
Dave

skimaniac6

Can I check the voltage at the coil to check and see if the igniter is doing the job? I assume it would be 12v but you what happens when you assume.

madoc1

when you turn on the key and step on the pedal, that sends 12v to the pos. side of the coil (trace the green wire from the sol. to the coil) you should have this. if you don't the problem is between the batt. and the fnr. could be a bad micro. this will not test your igniter

skimaniac6

So it looks like voltage at battery is 12.5v, I checked at the solenoid and it is 11 v when I press the pedal. I know that is really low does this mean new solenoid is needed? The other problem is the wire from the coil side came out of the coil (spark plug wire). It looks like it is just pressed into the coil with the insulator holding it tight, is this right? can I get a new spark plug cable local and not have to wait for it?

BrewCityMusic

the 1 - 1.5v dip at the solenoid isn't so bad, did you ever see if you were getting 12v at the coil positive when the gas is depressed and the starter engaged?

Also, yes, you can get a new wire locally, just be sure when you hook it up that the conductor is making good contact with the post inside the coil

skimaniac6

The way my cart was wired the coil was taped into the red wire going from the solenoid to the VR. I got about 8.5 v there. Maybe I should try to run a wire from the coil to the solenoid and see if that helps it. Thanks for the help.