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Unread 03-03-2011, 11:41 AM   #1
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Default Replacing Engine Blower Fan

I need to replace the engine blower fan in my EZ Go Golf Cart Model #EH29C Robin 295cc. My question is do I have to pull the engine out of the cart or can I replace the blower fan without having to pull the engine out of the cart?
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Unread 03-03-2011, 01:17 PM   #2
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

You shouldn't have to ... There are 4 14mm bolts that hold the front engine housing in place (one is exceptionally long as it also secures the main ground strap to the engine) - once you pull those you can remove the outer housing and the fan is right there on the flywheel, held in place by 6 bolts (there are 2 flat steel pieces that "lock" the fan bolts in place that you will have to bend with a small screwdriver to be able to remove the 6 10mm bolts that hold the fan itself in place).
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Unread 03-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #3
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Thanks for the info and quick reply. That will really help me getting it replaced. Sounds a lot easier than I thought!
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Unread 06-10-2017, 12:28 AM   #4
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewCityMusic View Post
You shouldn't have to ... There are 4 ms14mm bolts that hold the front engine housing in place (one is exceptionally long as it also secures the main ground strap to the engine) - once you pull those you can remove the outer housing and the fan is right there on the flywheel, held in place by 6 bolts (there are 2 flat steel pieces that "lock" the fan bolts in place that you will have to bend with a small screwdriver to be able to remove the 6 10mm bolts that hold the fan itself in place).
Just came across this thread. My pulsar coil is only making around 200mv ac, which I assume is too low and I'm not getting any spark. It meters at 20 ohms and interestingly enough, so does the new one I just received to replace it.

I am trying to get the fan and flywheel off to replace the pulsar, but I feel like I'm damaging something as the 10mm nuts don't feel like they're breaking loose. Do these steel pieces bend inward or outward ? I can't find it in the manual.

I do have the eh29c as well. 1991 Marathon.
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Unread 06-10-2017, 01:01 AM   #5
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

They are tabs that are up against the bolt heads. You need to bend them down, and away from the bolts.

I also think you are barking up the wrong tree with the pulsar.

Find your manual up in the sticky section at the very top, and go to the electrical troubleshooting section. You will find pulsar values there.
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Unread 06-10-2017, 01:18 AM   #6
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

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Originally Posted by cart around View Post
They are tabs that are up against the bolt heads. You need to bend them down, and away from the bolts.

I also think you are barking up the wrong tree with the pulsar.

Find your manual up in the sticky section at the very top, and go to the electrical troubleshooting section. You will find pulsar values there.
Thanks. I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with it either as I've been troubleshooting through it. That said, the manual says ;

"A reading of433.5 - 586.5 Ω should be observed. If the measurement obtained is out of this range or if a reading of no continuity is displayed, replace the pulser coil."

Mine was outside of this, so I ordered a replacement. My Ignition coil also meters at 17k ohms, ~3 above the manual's illustrations. I've got the 12v on the hot side of the coil itself (red wire) , but nothing getting the pulsed signal from the ignitor (white wire).

Ideas ?
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Unread 06-10-2017, 01:31 AM   #7
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Doing some research, I just found an almost identical question on E-how. The manual called for that high resistance. Both old and new were reading 20 ohms.

I can tell you on a 2 stroke it's 120-180 ohms.

I have read other threads calling for 75-120.

It should produce about a half volt of AC, but you would have to find an exact spec for that.

I believe that StoveBolt, and brew city music are really good on the 4 strokes. They should be able to help you when they come along.
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Unread 06-10-2017, 01:33 AM   #8
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart around View Post
Doing some research, I just found an almost identical question on E-how. The manual called for that high resistance. Both old and new were reading 20 ohms.

I can tell you on a 2 stroke it's 120-180 ohms.

I have read other threads calling for 75-120.

It should produce about a half volt of AC, but you would have to find an exact spec for that.

I believe that StoveBolt, and brew city music are really good on the 4 strokes. They should be able to help you when they come along.

Thanks a ton.
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Unread 06-10-2017, 01:39 AM   #9
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Here is the quote from that other website that is just general help. The expert told him to just throw in the new part to see if it worked. It wasn't his hundred bucks.

The part arrived today and as my friend was taking things off the engine to get at the pulser coil, I tested the new part with my Fluke 87 digital volt-ohmmeter. It was quite a surprise to see that the new pulser coil was 20 ohms (the same as the one already on the golf cart). The referenced Repair and Service Manual indicated that, "A reading of 433.5 - 586.5 Ω should be observed." So with the one on the golf cart reading 20 ohms and the brand new $100 one from the vendor also reading 20 ohms, I'm wondering if I'm barking up the wrong tree here due to having the wrong map. What are your thoughts on this?

To find more threads on the subject, google up "ezgo pulser test". You will find some interesting thoughts.
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Unread 06-10-2017, 08:54 AM   #10
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Default Re: Replacing Engine Blower Fan

Pulsar going bad-ive never seen one go bad. Rubbed through wire-yes, many times.

no spark at all, is normally the ignitor, if the wire is not rubbed through on the pulsar
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