eh29 295cc Robin Engine is open Questions

cedricbishop

Crank shaft showing some wear at attachment point for connecting rod on one side. There are some fairy deep groves cut at this machined point. Looks like They could be lightly smoothed and still be close to specs. Any input. I would prefer not to replace.

In the manual it says if you replace the valve guides. The valve guides look good. Would you recommend replacing them? I see they come with a lot of the kits.

The cylinders have a slight egg shape to them especially at the bottom. Looking at re-boring. Looking at re-boring to .25. I noticed they have a .5 as well. Any comments.

One of the cam lobes is scratched up. Smoothed out it would still be within specs. Would prefer to save the 200 bucks. Or should I replace?

As well the rocker for that valve has some deep groves in it. All four rockers show wear. Can they be resurfaces?

One of the intake valves was mushroomed and pushed up a half inch above the seat. I do not have a seat cutter. would lapping do the job? Any hints or tips here. The seat looks salvageable.

BGW

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rusty shackel

im in the same boat right now , replace both intake valves , have the machine shop check the guides.

they told me it only money and you will have anew engine or replace just what is bad and run it .

still thinking on mine..
bore is at 2.520 but there is some rins groves at the top [very slight]

rusty s

ez go go

You can try to smoothe the crank. I have done it before but be very careful not to damage the finish on the journal. I had replied to you in an earlier post that I have and yes you can resurface the cam and rocker faces to smoothe them out. I would not worry with the valve guides as I have never seen but one set wear out. I would lap in the valves. Most of the time this is sufficient. I use a water based compound to start with as it is coarser and then I finish it up with oil based which is usually a finer grit and it works fine. I've done plenty of them that had mushroomed the intake valve. As far as the cyl. boring goes, any machine shop that knows what they are doing will cut one size at the time to not take away any more than is necessary. 25 and 50 are your only to options so going directly to 50 w/o cutting at 25 and checking to see if the cyl. is cleared up may be a waste.

scottyb

Good advice there on cylinder boring. My problem with these engines is the lack of rod bearings and the damage that frequently happens to journal #2. There seems to be some oiling problem at the second journal

dmt400

Anyone know what the output shaft size is that holds the clutch?

Subarumouse

Hello,

If the oilpump is okay, its only the heat on the second cylinder!

My answer still is: get bearings in the rods.
Aluminium on steel plus heat and eventually a litle less oilpressure / cheap oil is the programm for broken rods.

Another point is less oil because you lifted the carts!
I'm always holding it on max with 1.9 liter fully synthetic.
Less oil is more heat in the oil.
That in combination with things as mentioned above can give......

Benno