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Unread 05-15-2011, 08:39 PM   #21
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

Hey Madoc,

The rings seem fine through the exhaust, and I can get it to turn over (actually should it turn over in F or R even when the gas isn't pressed? Cuz that's what it's doing...).

However, no fire. Looking through the clear fuel tube, I see gas above the carb, and the plug seems a bit wet.

I'm thinking coil or plug at this point - how can I check for spark? If I have spark, I guess a compression test is next....
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Unread 05-16-2011, 07:55 AM   #22
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

you need to pull the plug and with the wire still attached, ground the electrode (tip) to the engine block and spin the engine over. if you have spark, you will see it and it should look bluish. while you have the plug out, it's a good time to ckeck the compression. and no, it should not turn over with out pressing the gas. there is a small box down low under the drivers seat. pull the cover off and make sure the micro swiich is moving freely. with the key on you should have 12volts to one side. then when push the pedal it will close that swtch and send power to the solenoid. it could be stuck closed somehow.
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Unread 05-16-2011, 10:14 PM   #23
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

OK! Some progress on the "Vomit Comet" tonight (it's a vomit green color).

Got two compression testers - one didn't work, and the other registered 30 psi without a proper seal (basically piece of hose on the spark plug opening). I'm guessing that I'm looking at a rebuild, like it or not.

However, spark was good, and after I thoroughly soaked the carb, lo and behold, the engine started. Can't say it ran that bad (steady, no misses), but the RPMs never came up (even at full throttle). Then, after it burned off the carb cleaner (I think), it wouldn't start again.

Also of note, when turning the engine over, there was a bit of a rotten egg smell which disappeared. This was then followed (while running) by a smell that was a cross between paint thinner and magic markers. While running, there was also very little visible exhaust coming out of the head (muffler is off).

I'm guessing that the gas is bad, and/or there is a fuel feed issue. Mind you, there was some gas in the carb bowl, but the gas smells like the solvent/magic marker combo. The inside of the carb looked fine, though it did have the expected varnish. It's squeaky clean now.

Just wondering if there are few things I should try before doing the rebuild. Even if the compression is low, it would be nice to at least get the motor running, and diagnose any issues it has. This way, when I do the rebuild, any non-running issues will be related to that and nothing I haven't done now.

BTW I sprayed the linkage under the driver's seat with some desticker - looks like it was a bit bunged. Now the engine only turns over when the pedal is pressed. Yay.

And one last question - if my cylinder looks good, can I get away with a new piston/rings, or is the kit recommended? How do I know if I can do one, or need to do the whole rebuild?
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Unread 05-16-2011, 11:41 PM   #24
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

That magic marker smell is what carb clean smells like when combusted. Are ya getting fuel to the carb through the fuel pump when it is running? Besides, that 30psi reading with out a good seal is pretty much worthless reading. The fact ya got it running is GREAT! Now ya just need to get good fuel to the carb.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 07:38 AM   #25
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

quinn is correct on that smell. the rotten egg is probably bad gas. are you still using the oil pump, or premixing? it is safer to premix.at 40/1 for the first tank after the build, then 128/1. one ounce per gallon. you should drain the old gas and put in some new. then pull the line to the carb and check while turning over. you should see a steady stream.
after you pull the top end check the cylinder bore for scratches, grooves what ever. you can just replace the piston and rings if it looks good. a check is to take the piston and put in the cylinder and check the clearance with a feeler gauge on the side of the piston that no holes in it . the max clearance is .007". you have deglaze the cylinder before reusing it. we did this and ended up with 130# before break in. if you don't have the tools, you will probably be better off with the whole kit tho. be sure to replace the seals while you have it apart.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 08:26 AM   #26
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

Quinn, Madoc, thanks for the notes.

Quinn, the line was dry before I started working on the cart, and it did feed fuel to at least above the carb. What Madoc said about the rotten eggs = bad gas may be a good clue - I'll drain the lines and tank tonight and go with fresh gas to see if there is an improvement. Not a big expense to change the fuel filter either (which I'll do).

Madoc, as I mentioned in an earlier post, the cylinder bore looks very nice, no scratches, and very smooth - even passes the fingertip test. However, what is "deglazing"?

Also, if I'm reading your post correct, if I can get the .007" feeler gauge in easy, then redo the whole top end. How exactly can this be measured? From the bottom of the piston skirt up, or from the top of the head down?

And to the oil injector/premix, it has oil in the injector, and oil in the gas, so I'm pretty safe there. However, I am planning on disconnecting the oil pump and going to pure premix at a later stage.

Added Question: Is there a better fuel filter application that what is on the cart if I'm premixing, or does it not matter?

Last edited by ScooterMcTavish; 05-17-2011 at 09:08 AM.. Reason: Added a question.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 10:29 AM   #27
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

first, you don't want to run both the oil pump and premix. just un plug the pump and fit a small bolt in the manifold to block where the oil went in. too much oil will foul the plug and plug up the muffler. to deglaze you will need a cylinder hone. be gentle tho, too much and you will remove precious thous. off the wall. slip the piston down the cyl. and measure the side away from the piston thrust, i.e. the side of the piston that has no holes. you should have no more than the .007 clearance.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 08:17 PM   #28
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

Well, it looks like a rebuild is inevitable. Fresh gas and filter in today, followed by "Why is there no fuel getting to the carb" followed by "I must have an airlock" followed by pulling the hose off the carb and getting fuel fed.

However, no joy. It looks like the compression I had yesterday was enough to combust carb cleaner, but not gas/air. I sprayed more carb cleaner into the air intake today, and I confirmed this with a few lovely backfires. So fuel is feeding, spark plus is sparking, and honestly, the read with my buddy's pressure gauge yesterday was likely right.

It's not like 30 psi is blowing a seal off or anything.

So now the question is, do I try piston/rings, or do the whole top end. Since my cylinder still looks pretty good, what do you guys recommend?
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Unread 05-18-2011, 05:59 AM   #29
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

i think you should get the kit with cylinder and piston and rings. then you will know you will have it all set up correctly. you can even get an oversized kit for a little more displacement.
it's not hard to do. there is even a video out there showing the process, but i don't know what the name is.
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Unread 05-18-2011, 06:40 AM   #30
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Default Re: "Early 90's EZGO - Needs a Rebuild"

For what it's worth... I replaced all my fuel lines recently. I had a air lock problem. I used a $5 primer ball and an extra pc. of hose to fill everything with gas again. Then pulled the primer ball and extra hose off.
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