EZGo Brake Hub Question

1996ezrider

I have a 1996 gas ez go. Stripped the driver hub about a month ago. Put a new one one and it did it again. Pulled both hubs off and the axles look fine. Any words of wisdom for what I should do different this time. I read the torque comment the first time. Just wondering if there is some other root cause. Thanks in advance guys!

Ezrider

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

scottyb

Welcome ezrider
A spun hub on a gas cart is not as common as it is on an electric cart. The gas cart does not produce as much torque at startup as an electric. But in the case of a very worn clutch, the cart may rev up and slam into gear... slightly each time you start off, sort of hitting the hub harder than it was meant for... over time this can ruin the splines. If your clutch operates like this replace the helix and buttons.

Speaking of splines, there are many import hubs available that cost less than OEM hubs but are made from softer materials. They tend to last a shorter time... and as you mentioned proper axle nut torque is very important.
I would look for an OEM hub and torque the dog poop out of it

shadowman

welcome, and i agree with scotty again torque the crap out of it........just put some good anti seize on 1st so if you have to take it off but than light into it......i always do ansd never see them again for a stripped hub......................

madoc1

scotty has those on sale now. go to carts unlimited.

1996ezrider

Guys, have a follow-up question as something doesnt make sense to me. As I compared the 2 rear axles, I noticed something odd. The new hub doesnt fit the same as the OEM on the passenger side. The new hub doesnt seem to slide on as far.....which leads me to several questions:

- are the hubs side specific? I didnt think so. However, on my cart the passenger hub wont fit on the drivers axle......too small.
- See the pictures how the original hub on the passenger side seats back further onto the axle? I believe this is why the driver side replacement hub has burned up so quickly.

Scotty / others - am I am wet here?

ezrider

Attached Images

	driver side with new hub.jpg (38.7 KB, 8 views)
	passenger side with OEM hub.jpg (48.3 KB, 9 views)

scottyb

Often when I replace a hub the axle needs replacement too. They wear on each other. Maybe your splines have a lip or some wear that prohibits correct mating with the opposite axle? Maybe it will go on the rest of the way as the nut is torqued down to the 75-140 ft pound specification? It is hard to say without seeing it.

Lots of shops only replace hubs in pairs... others won't do hubs alone.

shadowman

i would put it on and run it down with the nut see if it goes on all the way.......is there any in and out play with the axle? i have seen quite a few times where the last 1/4 inch or so of the hub grooved shaft dosn,t go all the way back but the hub is seated and carts worked fine with no issues........................

D-A

Looking for a bit of info on this topic please! My 95 ezgo medalist just recently stripped the passenger hub, never was able to get the driver's hub off years ago when I originally obtain the cart, so it was time to do brakes and replace both hubs. Well after a tough battle with the driver's hub, it was finally off! Brakes and hubs ordered (aftermarkets), Brakes on, hubs will not go on at all, not even a little. Can apply a bit of force and they will start, but not slide on. So I'm afraid to tap them on which may strip out things and/or they will not come off again! My question is.....should new hubs just slide on the old axle splines or does this mean I need new axles? My driver's hub (the rusted hard to get off one) will slide on either side of the axle splines, news hubs will not!

scottyb

They can be ok and still be a tight fit. Tight is better than loose!
Put a wire wheel in a drill and rotating with the splines clean all the grooves out. Inspect the splines for damage. If all is good apply anti-seize compound and tap the drum/hub on. Remember to torque to 90-140 ft pounds and then insert the cotter pin.

D-A

Did the wire wheel, splines looked okay, WD40 after wire wheel, used brake cleaner after WD40, applied anti-seize. Have always loved a tight fit! Just wanted to make sure I didn't need to replace the axles because the new hubs don't even want to get started on the splines, I mean after I force them on just a little they are difficult to pull off, can't imagine if I tapped them all the way on! Seems like I'm going to ruin them (hubs) or both the hubs and axles! Is that normal for new hubs to be banged on and not just pushed on which would allow them to be hand pulled off. I'm pretty sure if I bang them on I will need a puller to get them off or worst! Maybe splines aren't as good as I think (over 50 eyes)! They do look a bit flatter on the beginning ends than further in towards the gears.