Quick recheck of my logic, please

BrewCityMusic

SO - I found what I believe may be a totally unneccesary project cart that I can't pass up, but I would like some ideas before I jump ...

It's another 1988 Marathon, retired in 1990 and bought from the golf course (original bill of sale and all) by the current owner (an older gentleman in the area, definitely doesn't hit me as the "wrench" type) - stored in a garage since he got it, probably as clean as most 2003-4 carts I've seen with the exception of a tear in the seat, the obligatory holes drilled in the cowl for a pair of lights, and a repaint about 5 years ago (not a spray bomb job, but not holding up too great either) ... Bottom line there is less rust, etc than I've seen on a Marathon in my carting days, and as a project canvas goes, it doesn't look like there will be any major surprises.

The caveat (and my questions) are in regards to why I can get it for $300 (but of course will likely weasel it down to $200) - the cart stopped running and he took it to a "dealer" who said the rear bearings, seal, and crank were bad and that it needed a total rebuild for $700-900 ... I can see the blatantly destroyed $7 rear seal, but I rolled the belt off and tugged the heck outta the crank in every direction I could possibly try and NO play whatsoever, no slop, nothing - just normal operation. NOW, is it just me, or does it seem this guy may have gotten some bad mojo from the "dealer" and the cart may just need a seal, or is it possible for the bearing to be bad and NOT be sloppy, etc? The cart turns over just fine, no grinding or noises, pump works, etc but with the blown seal I can't run it to see if it's noisy when running, etc (or of course, start it) and I don't want to try the spray trick on the rear seal in front of the guy - any ideas if I can somehow (and again, in front of the seller) ascertain if the bearings really ARE bad or if it's just a crank seal?

The guy seems to not be pulling anything (in fact he seems a little bummed that he can't get it fixed up cheaper) - if it's just a seal I would probably just give him the $300 or maybe $250, but if I can figure out a way to prove the bearings really ARE bad then I'm going to fight the price down as best I can or maybe even take another once over and if I missed anything, just pass on it - HELP !!!!

BGW

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shaggy

well, how about this... if it is a "unneccesary project" to you and the guy DOES seem to be BUMMED about it why not "hepp a feller out" that way, if its too bad, you can get it cheap (or not at all), orrrr, if its an easy fix, you'll make this guy as happy as a pig in sh!t. you'll still have a project, just not in your shop. and possibly make a friend in the process. just my .02.

BrewCityMusic

That's kinda where I was going with it, Shag - I mean, I don't really NEED the cart, and knowing me I'd end up spending too much to make it profitable in a hurry once I started rolling on it ...

My main question though is still how to confirm or deny that the bearing is bad without tearing into it, that's going to have a lot of (hahaha) BEARING on what I decide

madoc1

the bearings are not too expensive. maybe do a comp. test and see how the upper end is. if it spins feely with plug pulled, your probably all right. i believe the piston will go bad before the crank. i would say take a shot at it.

ScooterMcTavish

Sounds good to me too BCM - with no play in the crankshaft, the bearings should be fine, especially if it turns over fine with no squeal.

I'd guess that the most likely scenario is:
- The dealer is a rip off; how can they tell just the rear bearing is shot without cracking the case?
- The top end will likely need a rebuild - bet you it's a fuel feed issue combined with a worn out top top end

To my mind, if you can pick up the cart for $200-$250, then you're already ahead of the game; you could likely resell it to someone for $200-$250 if a bit of exploratory surgery shows that the patient is terminal.

Of course, you're going to tell us it HAS a canopy, right?

BrewCityMusic

No top - supports though :)

1989Marathon

It may not be the crank or crank bearings that are bad. It could be that the dealer told him it needs a new crank because the lower rod bearing is bad/loose.(not likely) That would require a new crank. The crank or rod bearings won't keep it from running if it turns over easily. If it has spark, it's probably something very simple/cheap.

BrewCityMusic

Yeah, I'm pretty hooked on it being just a seal but we'll see - I'm going to go take a much better look at it Saturday when the guy's back in town, I'm taking the compression tester and I figure if she's solid up top and no play in the crank, it's a safe bet ....

NOW to figure out how I'm gonna hide it from the other half for awhile if it works out, LOL