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Old 12-15-2011, 01:11 PM   #1
wbg
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Default Troubleshooting Clutches

I have a 1999 Workhorse.
Can some of you fellas tell me how to test my drive & driven clutch for proper operation? I would like to check there operation before changing belts.

Also, when going to a smaller belt, do I go 1" or 2" shorter?

Thanks,
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:42 PM   #2
9dawgs
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Mine was making a clunking noise when I would start off. I pulled the driven (rear) clutch off and pulled it apart. The ramp buttons were shot and the cam had started to wear a bit on the bolts that the ramp buttons were attached with. I'm replacing them this afternoon. New ramp buttons cost me $3.00 each at a local shop here in Tampa. I've seen them at Shop EZ-GO for $2.44 ea. That would be the first place I would check. I expect more torque when I put this all back together :>)

Here's an excellent document on how to remove everything. The only thing it didn't tell me was to make sure you run some stout wire through the center of the clutch and twist it together so that when you pull it apart it won't smack you in the face. I read that on another post and it was true. When you get the snap ring off and release the cam spring pressure it's under a great deal of tension. If you don't have something to hold it all together it will fly all over the place...not good. I used a very large C-Clamp to compress the spring tension and remove the snap ring. It's pretty self explanitory from there. Good luck.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 615690 for 26304G01 4 CYCLE DRIVEN CLUTCH SPRING.pdf (806.2 KB, 39 views)
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:42 PM   #3
csason
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

that pdf did not work for me.. ??
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:23 AM   #4
9dawgs
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Quote:
Originally Posted by csason View Post
that pdf did not work for me.. ??
PM me with your email address and I'll send it as an attachment.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:46 PM   #5
wbg
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Thanks for the PDF document. Do you have any info. on the drive clutch? How can I test it for proper operation?

Thanks,
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:25 PM   #6
DOOmsman
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Put the cart on jack stands and rev it slowly and watch the clutches operate.
DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH THE CLUTCHES!
THE DRIVE SHOULD CLOSE SMOOTLY AS THE DRIVEN OPENS WHILE THE BELT STAYS IN A STRAIGHT LINE.

Sorry caps lock
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:37 PM   #7
9dawgs
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Quote:
Originally Posted by wbg View Post
Thanks for the PDF document. Do you have any info. on the drive clutch? How can I test it for proper operation?

Thanks,
Here you go. :>)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 615846 for 26952G01 DRIVE CLUTCH - 4-CYCLE.pdf (650.3 KB, 22 views)
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:59 PM   #8
tegger
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Sounds like what my 2000 ST350 is doing, but it does it as long as you're moving. When in neutral and the engine running, nothing but normal engine sounds.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 9dawgs View Post
Mine was making a clunking noise when I would start off. I pulled the driven (rear) clutch off and pulled it apart. The ramp buttons were shot and the cam had started to wear a bit on the bolts that the ramp buttons were attached with. I'm replacing them this afternoon. New ramp buttons cost me $3.00 each at a local shop here in Tampa. I've seen them at Shop EZ-GO for $2.44 ea. That would be the first place I would check. I expect more torque when I put this all back together :>)

Here's an excellent document on how to remove everything. The only thing it didn't tell me was to make sure you run some stout wire through the center of the clutch and twist it together so that when you pull it apart it won't smack you in the face. I read that on another post and it was true. When you get the snap ring off and release the cam spring pressure it's under a great deal of tension. If you don't have something to hold it all together it will fly all over the place...not good. I used a very large C-Clamp to compress the spring tension and remove the snap ring. It's pretty self explanitory from there. Good luck.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:34 AM   #9
9dawgs
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Hey Tegger, you may want to pull the driven clutch apart and see what's going on with it. You'll probably discover what I did. It's not that hard to do if you have some basic mechanical skills. Tools I suggest are a good solid pair of snap ring pliers, a very large heavy duty c-clamp, a piece of either coat hanger or something as heavy a gauge and an extra pair of hands. I was able to get it apart ok by myself but when putting it back together I needed my son to put the c-clamp on while I pre-loaded (twisting the cam clockwise about 120 degrees) the cam while compressing it onto the splines.

Like I said,when reassembling I put my spring in the #3 hole setting for more torque but lost some top end speed. I will eventually pull mine back apart and put it on the #2 hole setting. I guess there is a reason for the "factory setting" at #2...kind of the best of both worlds.
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:23 PM   #10
tegger
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Default Re: Troubleshooting Clutches

Unfortunately, I haven't had the time to take a closer look at the clutch. At first, I though the drive clutch might having issues. But, from the descriptions I've seen here, it sounds like the rear driven clutch might have had better days. I can guess I can't really complain since the cart is 12 years old and hasn't really caused any issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9dawgs View Post
Hey Tegger, you may want to pull the driven clutch apart and see what's going on with it. You'll probably discover what I did. It's not that hard to do if you have some basic mechanical skills. Tools I suggest are a good solid pair of snap ring pliers, a very large heavy duty c-clamp, a piece of either coat hanger or something as heavy a gauge and an extra pair of hands. I was able to get it apart ok by myself but when putting it back together I needed my son to put the c-clamp on while I pre-loaded (twisting the cam clockwise about 120 degrees) the cam while compressing it onto the splines.

Like I said,when reassembling I put my spring in the #3 hole setting for more torque but lost some top end speed. I will eventually pull mine back apart and put it on the #2 hole setting. I guess there is a reason for the "factory setting" at #2...kind of the best of both worlds.
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