Robin engine crank play.Rebuild or trash?

Heliarc

I ran into another issue as I was removing my old worn out drive belt today.If I wiggle the drive clutch I can feel just a small amount of play.Maybe 1/32"?.Is it trash at this point or can I tear it down and save it?

BGW

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madoc1

the main bearing are replaceable and available at your local bearing house or from most of the sponsors. not hard to do.

Heliarc

Found a cart parts place today.He's going to e-mail me the relevant parts of the manual.

Heliarc

I managed to get the bottom end done tonight.I don't have a press, but someone on here mentioned the trick about heating the case(I gently used a propane torch as it's aluminum)and putting the bearings in the freezer.I used that along with wooden blocks, and a copper mallet.It went together ever so nicely and feels like a new engine now.I can't wait to get the top end on and see how she runs.Especially with new seals so it won't be sucking air.

Doc's BoneCracker

Sweet, Thanks for the update and the reminder on pressing them in even us old guys forget little tricks on and again.

madoc1

way to go!

Heliarc

I have to say, it's a good thing I was messing with the clutch and I noticed all the play in the mains.When I tore it down, one of the bearings was losing it's retainer cage which would have sucked majorly.

Anyhow, I have it in the cart and running but it still only wants to wind up if I choke it for a couple seconds while holding the throttle down.Otherwise it just backfires and kinda shits and farts along..I'm going to tear down the carb again and clean that.I also noticed a tiny little fuel filter that's on the line directly before the pump.I'll have replace that and see what happens.At least now I can rule out the crank seals and have piece of mind that it's not going to blow to pieces anytime soon.

Awesomesilverado

just curious, Heliarc, How was your lower end rod bearing, any play up and down any thing else you may have noticed that may have concerned you?

Heliarc

The lower rod bearing had absolutely no detectable play up and down.I didn't put it on a dial indicator but it felt good and solid by hand.I think I'd have been dropping in a used sled engine instead of buying a whole new crank assembly.It looks like the rod doesn't come off the crank without a miracle and cutting torch.I was surprised it was in such good shape when the main bearings were trashed.Perhaps the crank was replaced before.Everything else inside seemed just fine.The bearings went in like you'd expect a press fit to go in.If there were anything that bothered me I probably wouldn't have put it back together.

One thing I screwed up though, as I was separating the case halves, I used the copper mallet on the clutch end of the crank.Believe it or not, you can in fact deform the crank that way.It mushroomed just ever so slightly at the end.A few licks of the file set it right again but I'll keep that in mind.It was just the very end of it too, the taper lock on the clutch sets fine now.