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Unread 06-15-2012, 11:26 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

I was afraid of it being something big like the seals or even piston rings. Once it cools down I'll test it today.

Also on a side note, I need a new microswitch, where is the cheapest place I can get one? Mine finally gave in and I'm just crossing the two terminals to test it right now.
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Unread 06-15-2012, 07:24 PM   #12
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Honestly, when I did my seals, it wasn't all that bad since I had the engine out.Pulling the clutch and the flywheel might be a job, but the rest of it's pretty easy.Just take your time, use wooden blocks, plenty of oil to lube them going in, keep them straight and you ought to be fine.Just keep tapping all around the seal.Don't let it get cocked and they go right in.

As far as the switch, I just have my ignition hooked to the key.Turn key, engine runs.Turn it off, engine shuts off.
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Unread 06-15-2012, 08:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heliarc View Post
Honestly, when I did my seals, it wasn't all that bad since I had the engine out.Pulling the clutch and the flywheel might be a job, but the rest of it's pretty easy.Just take your time, use wooden blocks, plenty of oil to lube them going in, keep them straight and you ought to be fine.Just keep tapping all around the seal.Don't let it get cocked and they go right in.

As far as the switch, I just have my ignition hooked to the key.Turn key, engine runs.Turn it off, engine shuts off.
That doesn't sound too bad, hopefully compression is good and that's it. I didn't get to do any testing today because my knee is acting up (have a broken kneecap from a wreck two months ago)

And yeah I have mine hooked up the same way for right now lol. Makes testing stuff on it a lot easier.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk 2
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Unread 06-16-2012, 11:51 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Welp, got to test the crankshaft seals. Took a lot of spraying, almost gave up until I heard it start to rumble and change in sound... Then BAM, it took off like a bat outta hell, scared me nearly to death lol. So glad I jacked it up or else I would have wiped out the John Deere lol.

Any write ups on putting new crank seals on?
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Unread 06-17-2012, 07:33 AM   #15
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Glad you found your problem.First, get the engine out.It's not too hard.

Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the muffler and the bottom of the engine and remove it.Might be a good time for gaskets on this piece.Unbolt and remove the muffler, loosen the starter and slip off the belt, remove the drive belt.You can do this by sliding it over the driven clutch and turning it.You may have a plastic dust cover on the driven clutch, this will have to come off as well.It's going to look like you can almost get it, but trust me, you can't without breaking off cooling fins.Next take out three bolts on the drivers side of the engine, four on the passenger side.The drivers side bolts in question are the ones that look like they go to the cylinder head through a piece of metal.The passenger ones are on the opposite end of the engine.On mine I just have to remove the bottom two and loosen the top ones.You'll see once you get into it, but if you want a video I can do that.

Now get your engine on a bench.You're going to need a puller for the clutch, or a miracle.Here's the cheapest one I found on e-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZGO-Golf-Ca...item3cbff1f1db

I've also heard about guys taking a piece of round stock that will drop down in there and a bolt that matches the threads on the outer end of the clutch.Either way sounds ok to me.Just soak the inside up good and as you're torquing, don't be afraid to give it a few taps to shock it loose.That will break your taper lock and the clutch will be off.

You'll might need a puller for the flywheel too, but you might get away with tapping around on it with a plastic or wooden mallet.I'm not sure.Mine just popped right loose with a few taps and LIGHT pressure from a screwdriver prying it outwards.

Once those are off, you'll have access to your seals.You can go one of two routes.If you can't detect any play in your crank bearings, then get someone that really knows to verify it, and count yourself lucky if they can't either.Take a thin screw, such as a drywall screw or maybe a little thicker, and tap it down into the seal and run it right through.Don't go too deep, just until the screw is in up past the tapered tip.Then get a claw hammer and you should be able to pry on the screw and pull the seal right out.You can do this in a few places too.Once your seals are out, you can see pretty easy how they go in.The seals are basically just a hair bigger than the hole so they go in very tightly.So you lube the seal, lube the hole, and with a wooden or plastic dowel(a chunk of broomhandle would probably fit the bill), you start tapping around the seal driving it in just a bit at a time and moving to the other side.Once you've got it in flush, you're home.Some guy prefer to take a punch and peen the metal around the seal so a backfire can't blow them out.I didn't, but you might want to.Entirely up to you.

Now, if there is play in your bearings, you're obviously going to want to change them or you'll just wipe out the seals again.This involves splitting the case, which I'm sad to say, kindof sucks.The bearings are pressed on to the crank AND pressed into the case.I managed to do this on my own without any help or even without a press, but I think I may have gotten lucky.I would strongly suggest going to a guy that has a press and LOTS of experience with it.He can most likely pop your seals in for you too.And if you have the engine out, and the cylinder off, which you'll need to do, and is easy, it shouldn't take him but an hour or two.I got mine done in about two hours and I was using wooden blocks and a hammer.

Good luck.If you have any questions we'll be around.
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Unread 06-17-2012, 07:46 AM   #16
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

That's a nice write up from Heliarc and here is just a couple of extra points. Before you take the engine out grab hold of the clutch and try to lift the engine up and down. If you feel the slightest play between the crankshaft and the engine block you will need to replace the bearings. Even the smallest play will rip your new seals to shreds in super short time.
If you want to save a few $$ you can make your own clutch puller. It is a 3/4 inch hardened (G 8 ) bolt 2 inches long and a 9/16th steel rod 3inches long. You remove the bolt that holds the clutch and drop in the rod then you wind in the bolt and off it comes (in theory). It is also good to give everything a soak in PB Blaster 12 hours ahead.
For the flywheel a cheap 2 arm steering wheel puller will work. There are 2 dome headed screws on the flywheel that only exist to protect the threads that you will connect to. You will need 2 x 4 inch M6 screws and maybe a few washers. Again PB Blaster is your friend.
As Heliarc says if you run into a problem just shout.

Dave
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Unread 06-17-2012, 09:00 AM   #17
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Thanks Dave.I knew there were things I was missing.And of course it's always nice to have one of the resident experts verify what you're saying.
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Unread 06-17-2012, 02:49 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Wow, that's great, thank you so much for that huge write up Heliarc and Dave for the tips, that will definitely help. I also tried pulling up and down on the crank, I felt no play at all, only thing I felt/heard was a little knock when I would circulate the crank, sounds natural to me so I'm not sure.

Now I have another question, how much am I supposed to pay for a new seal? I found the cheapest on eBay so far, but I don't know the good and bad prices on these cart parts yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZ-GO-Golf-C...item231e443aa4

Is that a fair price?

Also, I'm still really wanting to get a microswitch on this cart but the cheapest I can find is around $20, is that about normal?
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Unread 06-17-2012, 04:32 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

Another silly $0.02 on the flywheel pulling - don't be aftraid to bang on the flywheel as you have it under tendion with the puller, but DO be very afraid of the instinctual move of using a screwdriver, bar, etc to try and pry on it at all. The engine casing is relatively fragile and believe me, it CAN and WILL break if you try to do any prying.

Also, as versus peening the casing to hold the new seal in, some loctite on the seal will work double-duty a a lube to help get it in place as well as holding it there once it's in

Seals are right around $5 each pretty much anywhere, and yeah, the microswitch is an overpriced part, LOL
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Unread 06-18-2012, 01:47 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1987 EZ-GO cranks but doesn't run [please help, about to give up]

I think I like that loctite better than peening.
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