Testing parts

frodrummer

Inherited my 81 marathon 2pg. Never drove it, but trying to get it running. Wanting to figure out if I need to replace various parts. Engine is currently out, and is undergoing rebuild. Wanting to know if there is a "bench test" for any of the following parts to figure out if they are good or not. Again, wanting to test them detached from the engine (if it is even possible).

Fuel pump
Ignitor
Pulsar coil
Drive clutch
Regulator


Any help on any of these parts would be appreciated.

BGW

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kyerik

The pulsar is the only one that can easily be tested without starting/cranking the engine.

Fuel pump- fuel "pulses" should shoot out at least 2-3 inches when the engine is cranking.
Ignitor- there is no test that I am aware of
Pulsar coil- around 50-150 ohms across the two terminals (unplug them from the ignitor)
Drive clutch- the clutch should close up as the engine revs (there should be about a 1.5 inch gap between the base of the sheaves while the clutch is stationary)
Regulator- voltage across battery terminals should be around 14 volts when the engine is running

frodrummer

Kyerik, Thanks for the quick reply. I recently purchased a volt meter, because I knew I would need one. However, I have little/no experience using one. I was, as with many other things, just going to figure it out as I go. When testing the Pulsar, what ohm setting would I set the meter on (as there are various settings)? I know this is quite the rookie question, but I've had no formal training using a volt meter. I suppose this can be lesson #1.

kyerik

Mine has a 200 ohms setting- but yours may be a little different. The ohms symbol looks like a horse shoe.

When you test DC volts, use the V setting with the dashed and solid lines. For AC voltage, you will use the V setting with the wave shaped line beside it.

BrewCityMusic

Fro - for what it's worth, the best bet is to get that engine back in first, get everything hooked up (you can go to the top of the forum and download the shop manual / wiring diagram, etc if you get stuck with the reassembly) and THEN we can more effectively lead you through the testing of your electrical, most of the components need to be tested in place (with as noted above the exception of the pulsar) ...

Even the pulsar, though should be double-tested in place, when you're turning the engine over it should generate approximately 1-2VAC - trust me, I've seen a few of them that ohmed out just fine and still didn't work ...

Get that motor in, feel free to ask if you get stuck on the reassembly, and then we can lead you through the rest :)

frodrummer

You guys are great. Thanks a mil.

frodrummer

Tested the pulsar. The numbers were jumping all over from 70 to 190. Held it on there for a few minutes and it never held on one number specifically. Am I missing something?

kyerik

The pulsar resistance (50-150 ohms) should be tested with the engine stationary and the wires unplugged.

If the reading was jumping around, you just didn't have a good connection. Also be sure that you do not touch the bare metal leads while you are measuring it because this can decrease the ohms reading.

The AC output is the only one that should be tested with the engine cranking (and wires unplugged)

frodrummer

Thanks for the info kyerik. Funny how I'm JUST now learning how to use one of these. Oh well, gotta start somewhere I suppose. Is the rubber sleeve around the pulsar wires replaceable? Haven't seen one in my travels. I may just have to fashion something comparable.

kyerik

You will probably need to rig up your own sleeve replacement. Maybe some of that plastic split type "pipe" style wire cover.