lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas EZGO
Gas EZGO Gas EZGO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



Post New Thread  Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 10-08-2012, 08:50 AM   #1
Gone Wild
 
frodrummer's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Savannah MO
Posts: 206
Default POP goes the crank case

Pulled apart the case halves on my 81 2pg this weekend. Big thanks to Kyerik for the separation "how-to". Followed it step by step, and modified it to fit my needs. Used a healthy helping of PB Blaster. I would give it a couple quick sprays before I left for work, and after I got home from work. Did this for about 3 days. I believe it really helped. Everything was exactly as Kyerik's tutorial depicted on the clutch side. I did have to use a slightly different setup on the flywheel side. The unthreaded holes were not available on my crankcase, however, I did utilize the 3 screw holes that hold the 4-5'' ring located just outside of the pulsar coil location. They were M6's. I was a little concerned that the M6's wouldn't hold up under the tension, but they held nicely. I purchased a 4' piece of threaded M6 from Fastenal, and after cutting/filing, i had 3 - 9'' M6 bolts (which fastenal does not carry). As for the puller, I went to lowes and picked up some brackets that are used for hanging or mounting conduit. These worked great. I was going to cut off the excess (or unused) verticle portion of each bracket, but I noticed that the holes were punched in different areas on each side of the bracket. This gave me more mounting options, which is visible in the picture below if you look closely.

I pulled the clutch side first to ease the strain on the M6's on the flywheel side. This worked well. I also used a large 4 way tire iron to make the turning easier. After about 4 cranks with the tire iron...creeeeeek...POP! Same thing on the flywheel side. I used a 3/8 socket as a sacrifice piece even though I did not plan on reusing the crank. 10 minutes later, everything was apart. I am sure that everyone has done this before, and has their own method, but this method was really easy and cheap. It worked really well. Thanks Kyerik!!

I do have one question though...
I noticed that when I pulled my old crank, that the bearings on the clutch side were not bunched up next to the crank itself. The outer bearing seemed to have wandered out a bit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the two bearings (on the clutch side) need to be side by side, as far onto the crank as theyll go? As previously stated, not reusing the crank, but I am having new bearings pressed today onto my new crank, and just want to be double sure. Thanks in advance!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg puller 1.jpg (276.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg puller 2.jpg (215.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg parts highlight.jpg (289.4 KB, 0 views)
frodrummer is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Unread 10-08-2012, 09:01 AM   #2
Respect the Cart
 
Dave Box's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rocky Mount, Virginia
Posts: 2,189
Default Re: POP goes the crank case

Both of the crankshaft bearings should be pressed together right up to the shoulder on the crankshaft. I should imagine that the outer bearing was dragged off the crankshaft by the crankcase as you pulled it out.

Good luck with the rebuild and here is a small tip. It is a good idea to use a little Loctite Blue bearing seal on the outer edge of the crankshaft seal. If there is any wear in the mating face it is possible for the seal to pop out after a few engine hours. Lubricate the rubber seal with some 2 stroke oil and you will be set to go.

Dave
Dave Box is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-08-2012, 09:58 AM   #3
Gone Wild
 
frodrummer's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Savannah MO
Posts: 206
Default Re: POP goes the crank case

Dave, I have a few quick questions regarding the seals.

1. When applying the Loctite, how much is enough? I am assuming I don't want gobbs of it drooping out around the seal.

2. Will the seals need pressed, or can I use the ol' wood block/rubber mallet method?

3. Am I applying the Loctite as a preventative measure AGAINST any wear on the mating surface, or is it simply to keep the seal in place? Or both? I didn't notice much wear on the mating surface, but I didn't look too closely.

4. Since the seals are installed from the outside of the case, at what point do I install them? After crank is in and cases are bolted back together?

5. In the event that I can't find the Loctite you described, is there another sealer that will work well? I searched online for the Loctite blue bearing seal (Oreillys, auto zone etc.) and couldn't find an exact match. Sorry for the barrage of questions, I should have ordered a shop manual before now.
frodrummer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-08-2012, 11:49 AM   #4
Respect the Cart
 
Dave Box's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rocky Mount, Virginia
Posts: 2,189
Default Re: POP goes the crank case

Hi frodrummer,

I have close by an independent engine repair shop with a store and that is where I got the product following their advice. It was Loctite 242 (Blue) which I now realize is actually a threadlocker but it has worked and I would recommend it. The shop told me not to use the red version as that requires heat to remove it. If you would rather use a bearing mount then there is something like this
http://www.jegs.com/i/Loctite/198/39...ductId=2342113
but as I say the blue has worked for me. When I first rebuilt my 2PG I fitted the seals dry and with less than 2 hours on the engine it failed. Fortunately I saw the seal next to the clutch so the diagnosis was easy although the repair was made even more tedious by the fact that I had only just put the engine back. To answer your questions

1. I put a drop every 1/4 of a diameter around the mating surface of the seal

2. I used a block and a mallet and tapped very gently ensuring that the seal stayed square. I have now got 27 hours on the engine and everything is still in place

3. You are just ensuring that the seal stays in place. Unlike a four stroke the crankcase is subject to positive and negative pressure changes. In a perfect situation the seal would stay in place, however a little chemical help should be regarded as life insurance for your engine.

4. I installed mine after the cylinder and the head were on. Obviously you will need to fit the front one before the pulsar and the flywheel.

BTW in case you did not know the head bolts are torqued to 24 foot pounds. Just to be kind to your engine torque them diagonally at 15 then 20 then 24.

Dave
Dave Box is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-08-2012, 04:54 PM   #5
Gone Wild
 
frodrummer's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Savannah MO
Posts: 206
Default Re: POP goes the crank case

Thanks Dave. I will be starting on that in the coming days. Having a local shop press the bearings tomorrow.
frodrummer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-08-2012, 10:33 PM   #6
Gone Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South central IL
Posts: 287
Default Re: POP goes the crank case

I'm glad the puller worked out well for you and the 2PG.
kyerik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas EZGO


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
crank case seals Gas EZGO
Crank case screws Gas Yamaha
87 2pg crank case? Gas EZGO
Does a 2pg have a crank case pressure pickup tube inside the crank case? (pic) Gas EZGO
1983 crank case oil Gas EZGO


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:32 AM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.