4 stroke driven clutch/ramp/helix rebuild

sassycat

i always say this,but i wanted to add this tid bit of info for others since bgw members always have helped me.
this is the 36 degree driven clutch from aprox a 94 and has many miles on it im sure..
theres a snap ring on the back side, your supposed to gently push down the "helix"3 inch round alum part an 1/8th inch and remove the s.ring and ease the spring off..this is under pressure and could hurt you bad but i knew by mashing it together first it was ok if carefull.i made a threaded rod with washers and 2 nuts too keep it from coming apart till i wanted to later on..

taken apart

notice the new ramp buttons/shoes compared to the old ones..also remember theres a plastic washer on the clutch shaft in the pic and you dont want to loose this.



this is called the helix,some call it a cover.notic the height of the new and old

another pic

my helix had a groove worn into it from the screws that hold the ramp buttons in place,since the buttons were toast

BGW

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sassycat

i studied this helix a few minutes and i feel"could be wrong" that this wear,should make a noticable diffrence when its replaced as the new helix should cause the belt to go lower in the clutch groove and have just a lil more top end speed..it seems like it anyhow.

new ramp buttons installed 2.59 each x3

notice the new helix sitting on the spring,,there are 3 holes at the bottom that the spring sits in,the one on the left is less torque iirc and the 3rd hole on right is the most torque,and theres 1 hole in the helix also for the other end of spring to sit in.if any of this is wrong i will return and correct it in due time...

i put my spring in the 3rd hole as it was in the first when taken apart.
then you have to turn the helix/dust cover to the right to clock the spring between the 2 ramp pads..not near as easy as takin apart so you may need a buddy to help with this..i managed but was kinda a pita but its over
all back together with snap ring installed..if any of this is wrong i will fix it after i see what the clutch will do in a week or so or less.all could be wrong is the way i clocked it..theres a good link on this but i cant find it now.

heres the best most badd azzz snap ring pliers ive ever owned.they wernt cheap but well worth it,,brand;armstrong,and they come with different tips and they can be used with the push of a button for inner and outer snap rings..there nice imo

1989Marathon

Very nice write-up. That's exactly how I did mine.

rugerm77

Glad I found this, I'm in the process of rebuilding mine right now , Just waiting for the Parts to come in from CPP .
I'm Putting a 28 degree Helix & 28 degree ramp buttons in mine but that Cat came apart so fast I didn't know how far to Clock the Spring & what Hole it came out of. Also putting in a Heavy Spring. ( I Need Torque )

BlackBerryHill

Excellent write up, and great photos. I wish my clutch could have been rebuilt, but it was toast. My driven clutch was an original 96 that never received any maintenance. I have replaced almost everything on my cart since I got it and began the build project. Now that I have seen first hand what happens to a clutch without proper care I will keep this new one in good order. I wish I had some pics available right now to post to show everyone what happens when a clutch is not maintained. Everything inside looks like there was an explosion.

rugerm77

Yea, I just got my Gas'er & have been working to get it ready for Deer Season.
Pretty Much on my way, Jakes Lift Kit , Severe Duty Belt , New Fuel Pump, New Carb. Heavy springs for both Clutches , The springs is the reason I had the Driven Clutch apart - Good thing I did , it was just getting into the screws.
No telling what would have happened if the Helix would have wedged against those Screws at Full Speed.

Heliarc

Is this procedure similar to a 2PG in the slightest? I notice differences by looking at it, but would this get the job done for me as well?

BrewCityMusic

Heliarc - if by procedure, You mean disassembly, yeah it's almost identical (I have a thread from last year where i "fixed" my 87 driven by replacing the ramp buttons and stretching the stock spring - yeah, I'd been drinking but it *did* work, LOL) ... I made a clutch tool out of a threaded rod, an old shock shackle/vice/6lb hammer/drill (basically a "u" shaped piece the width of the helix around where the circlip goes) and a couple of nuts - there should be some pics if You search my old threads, otherwise hit me up and I'll try to find 'em on the comp and send them your way - total cost on the tool was like $4 and it made the disassembly/reassembly a breeze.

As to "Clocking" the clutch, no go on pre-89's, the spring can only be replaced *or* as in my case, stretched (which did work, as I said)

sassycat

after doing this i may have clocked my spring wrong as i cant push the clutch apart by hand like i did to dissasemble it..i put the spring in the 3rd hole,turned helix to the right to pass the ramp and put the clip on..seems way tight but i wont no till im up and running again
forgot to subscribe to my own thread

Heliarc

Yea that's what I meant. Just getting it apart. One of my clutches is screwed up and I can't get any answers on it so I'll have to go in headfirst on it. The thread is "Thinking driven clutch is shot" if you could please take a look.

Thanks Brew. And sorry for hijacking your thread Sassy.