Need some Drive clutch help

BillieS

What I have: 2004 MPT Wheel-horse with 350 Robin engine, Stock

My problem: I have noticed that the cart about jerks your head off when it takes off. I have narrowed the problem down to the driven clutch, I took the belt off and watched the drive clutch and it snaps shut when the rpms reach a certain point.

My question: Can the driven clutch be overhauled?

I also have a ST2x2, I would like to make the MPT pull the same as the ST. Since it looks like I will have to do something to the MPT I would rather redo the MPT drive line. What do I need to do to make the MPT pull the same as the ST?

BGW

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turbof250

Check out cartspartsplus.com. They have everything you need to rebuild the clutch. You may need a helix and ramps for it. Search the forum for driven clutch and you will find a ton of great threads on repairs ad how to preform them. I'm sure someone who knows way more about them will reply also.

BillieS

Thanks, I will do that. I was hoping to se a diagram and change the pulling power of the cart while rebuilding the clutch.

BillieS

Ok, I found the parts diagram I was looking for. It appears that I will need to replace both springs on the drive an the driven clutch. Will I need to replace the drive belt also? I see where they are sold as a kit.

nobuckbuild

i think what you are going to find that your drive clutch is sticking and the spring maybe broken or weak , i have been running into this quite often lately try that first but its never a bad idea to rebuild a driven clutch if you do not know the last time it was checked

BillieS

Ok, I will look at this first. Can I take he bolt off the cover on the clutch without removing the whole assembly? I have never had one of these apart. Is the drive clutch removable without taking the engine out? Thank for the help.

ez go go

If you are looking for more pulling power, make sure to check out CPP and his machining process on the 28 deg. ramps on the clutch rebuild. Second, i have found much success in changing belts to achieve a lower gearing, which gives you more pulling power. It's a cheap fix but the clutch rebuild is a must if you want to stop that jerking. If you can get your hands on the driven clutch, grab one sheave with each hand and twist them opposite from each other. If there is slack, the buttons are worn out and the ramp is probably shot.

BillieS

I am sure the drive clutch will need redone, maybe the spring or so. If I have to replace the spring I will do both the drive and the driven spring. I did not know that about the driven clutch. I will do that test before I order any parts.

You say replace the belt, do you mean a smaller belt than the stock belt? Thanks so much for your help. I will also check out CPP.

BillieS

Ok, I decided to tear into the drive clutch today, figured it was broke anyhow. It was not the monster I thought it was. I could compress the spring, while the clutch was together, by my hands, not a good sign. I removed the cover and took the spring out and could compress the drive spring with just two fingers. Something tells me that it should not be that easy to compress. So I would venture to say I need a drive spring. This would be why the drive clutch would snap closed when accelerating causing the jerking that was going on. I inspected the weights and arms and they seem to be in good shape. So I guess I will be ordering new heavier spring and possibly a shorter belt.

mcdave71

The spring keeps it open. Weights close it. Stronger spring will let motor rev out more until clutch starts kicking in. If it's snapping necks, make sure the outer sheath slides in and out easily and the weights are clean and just slightly lubed.