Jacobsen utility

cheesehead3

New here. So I need some help. I,m looking at a Jacobsen 1997 I believe utility cart to buy. I found these numbers on the motor EH35 C and 1009753. Can you help with what they mean? The motor has a slight knock but runs. I can buy it at a nice price. Not sure if I can say what it is on here or not . Its in nice shape. 700.00. Good buy even if I need to rebuild the engine?

Thanks Russ

BGW

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ORTitan

Russ,

That would be the Subaru-Robin engine. 2cyl 4 stroke 350cc same as used in EZ-GO utility carts. It is the same basic motor as EZ-GO golf carts, but they are only 295cc.

Parts are easily available for repair. If it is knocking it could be a connecting rod making noise. The rods use no bearings, they are aluminum and ride directly on the crankshaft.

You can easily spend as much to repair this engine as you are purchasing the cart for. An economical alternative is to re-power with a clone or larger briggs.

Hope this helps

cheesehead3

Thanks for the info. Saved me a lot of work and money. I,ll keep looking.See your from Oregon. I have brother in Hood River. Retired. Hope to get there soon.

cheesehead3

If I can find a rebuilt EZ Go engine would you know what model number I should look for? How much of a job is it to rebuild one yourself? I have been in the pneumatic tool repair business for 40 years. Retired now.

ORTitan

The differences (that can give you grief) in these series of engines if you are going to replace one completely with another are the displacement and if the exhaust manifold is cast as part of the cylinder head.

You have a 350cc motor which is commonly referred to as 11 horsepower. The 295cc is rated at 8 or 9 hp (can't remember which).

The later models of these engines used a cylinder head with the exhaust manifold cast as part of the head. The earlier engines used a separate cast iron manifold. The muffler assembly is specific to each design. You can switch between the two, you just need the correct muffler.

Those are the biggies you need to be aware of. Giving the engine re-builder the same info as you have provided should allow them to give you the correct motor.

Hope that helps

ORTitan

If you have a reasonable amount of had tools you should be fine for this engine. It is not that complicated. You should be aware of a few things if you decide to rebuild it your self.

Many of these motors have died from the poor airbox design that allowed everything to get into the engine.

Tear down and inspect the crank and cylinder bores thoroughly. If the motor has tried to eat the connecting rod and it has done anything to the crank other than deposit aluminum that can be scrubbed off, then the cost is going to go quite high for a new crank. There are no UNDERSIZED rods that I have seen. If you needed an undersize rod then you are machining it yourself.

The blocks can be overbored and oversize pistons and rings have been available in the past.

Valve recession in the cylinder heads is very common. I had one where the exhaust valve actually pulled through the valve seat.

Camshafts do go flat.

Check that oil pump.

Do all of this BEFORE ordering spare parts. If you find enough things wrong, then a clone with a new clutch could be more economically appealing.